SBT

I figured you'd chime in on that one.

Awesome. And thanks to DIJ for the initial beta test feedback. Everything is looking great. BTW - If you haven't done so already, just a reminder to get your site vendor status in place before you go on production. Don't want that to hold up getting this to those of us who want to buy it when it's ready.

If you're going to be towing that much weight, regularly - at highway speeds, I'd put an auxilliary oil cooler on your LGT, beyond your stock oil cooler above your oil filter. The reason I mention that is you're going to be staying on boost much longer than you would typically be without a load and that will tend to heat your turbo, and by association your oil. Last thing you want to do is cook your oil with 1200+ degree heat over the duration of a haul. I mention this because I noticed that the car was holding boost quite a bit longer, and that there was a more than usual increase in oil temps while pushing through the local mountains with a large Yakima cargo box on top. This was also while travelling against a very strong head wind, enough to slow the car down on a few instances and the trip went from sea level to ~ 7000 feet to below sea level, always with this headwind. I surmise that towing 2000+ lbs behind would have an even greater effect so just something to think about.

Your's sounds very much like a wheel bearing. Notice ANY change in volume or sound when you turn the steering wheel right or left at speed? If so, suggest that you have a wheel bearing that's nearing EOL.

Your LGTLW was made in the SIA plant in Indiana, and sold in Hawaii, so if it's got taupe leather interior, then it's one of the 61. Can't speak to the SpecB #s.

Talk about whistling as you work...

I think 1 of 61 SWP 5MT LGTLW w/taupe is fairly rare.

^ We're not Nasalock and the LGT crew are much more refined their SoCal crew so no worries. You're looking at ~$350 parts and labor. Presume that this is the 1st 60K service so it's not that intrusive or involved and you could do it for less if you bought the parts at discount and did most of the labor yourself, i.e., oil/air filters, belts (if needed), tranny and diff fluids, coolant/conditioner, and probably a few things I'm forgetting. Since you're in the Irvine/FV area give Ron Kang at SouthCoast Subaru a call, or Matt at HB Speed. HB Speed can probably do it cheaper, but either one could give you an estimate. HTH.

Ditto - please

Thanks B! Thought it looked like a Cusco one, but the paint color thru me off. I'm looking at an STI one right now, but if it doesn't fit, I can still pick it up and install it when the FMIC is finally fitted up.

Strut tower brace... sorry.

See you're running an STB. What version/type? Anyone running the Perrin with the STI STB? Any fitment issues?

Agreed, even with AP Stage 1, you're not going to see that much boost on the stock IC.

^ not sure but think the "major WHP loss" was a tongue-in-cheek comment. Seriously, can anyone post up a picture of the "trimming" that needs to be done to make the engine cover "fit" the P-TMIC and what's the best approach/tool to use for the trimming.

oh noes - not the dreaded soap issue...

Yay!

18.4 psi is a good starting point, but there are some who will need more... Keep up the great work.

Any issues with hood scoop sealing or consistent airflow across the whole surface of that monster?

Thanks Westy - Nicely done! So the engine cover will not fit with the Perrin TMIC installed? I'd heard/seen this on the earlier versions (3-4 years ago), but haven't been watching recent improvements.

Any issues with coolant temps or with coolant loss? You might actually have a cracked head gasket, or at least one that's going. Pull your #2 wire off at the coil pack and at the spark plug end. Look for any corrosion at either end. Possibly getting an arc to ground which will carbon up the connectors very quickly and if you do have carbon clean that up (on both sides of the connection) and coat it with some good dielectric grease in there to keep it from corroding. BTW - were these all Subaru OEM replacement parts (coil pack and wires). If not, you may want to put OEMs on as some AM sets have been known to produce MF codes.

Correct on both points. I had just replaced my front LCA bushings and all I had in mind was the physical similarity (round and soft) between the rear front TA bush and the front LCA bush. Sorry for any confusion

There are some that are running rear adjustable lower control arms, which enables a lot of negative camber dial-in, at the expense of torquing the rear LCA bushing. Hardening (removing the air space) the rear front LCA bushing would prohibit this for those going this route.

Was just going to ask this. Good to know. Anyone upgraded their pitch stop too to see if this contributes to the driveline-alignment (growl issue)?

Note my "significant" camber qualifier. You can't get very much negative camber with the factory setup.

@ rao