SBT

All very cool stuff!

LMK how that goes (07LGT setup). Also, if you're really feeling that the clutch pedal is getting too hard to push, check your slave cylinder...and MC to SC line...might be slow-leaking and getting some air in the system. That's what I had with mine. Fixed it, bled the system and all's good now.

Alright, been seeing a bunch of LGTs around Mt Pleasant and North Charleston and a few more up Columbia way, so let's get a rally tally of who's all here. Post up your screen name and location SBT - Mt Pleasant

Whut?

Chatter is usually caused by a warped flywheel, at least initially, and off-the-car you can detect the warp by the blue pin-spots (up to ~1/2"-3/4" in diameter on the surface. You can also straight-edge the FW and check it that way. If you allow the chatter to go on too long, you eventually do damage to the entire drivetrain, especially if it's severe chatter. At stage 2.5 I have not been happy with my WRX/ACT setup and am going back to the stock setup which worked very well for 100K miles. WRX FW and ACT HD clutch never felt right from day one and I'm really tired of the associated noise and engagement chatter on launch. It grips well when engaged but it has really taken the joy out of driving the car when all the other things are considered. And I have the TSK3 on as well, which I will likely leave on when I change out the ACT setup.

Mike - Excellent writeup and thanks. Stickied.

Seems like the seller is only selling one wheel @ $500.00 starting price. Shows other color wheels (British Black, etc.) in the other pic...

If I can get some STI 'Pink' JDM Spec B wagon or even JDM GT wagon springs, I'd likely sell my GT Wagon-specific Swift performance springs. They're a great combo with the Bilstein struts/shocks, just a bit too low for towing. And I've stickied this thread. Let's keep it crisp and clean the way LGTB has framed it up

Don't you also get a pressure-lubricated (read: internal pump-pressurized) system with the STI 6MTs and not with the SPEC Bs, or is that all just a figment of my addled recollection. IIRC the STI boxes are pressure-lubed, whereas the Spec Bs are not - which would be a large advantage to going with the STI Box IMHO.

I have a set of Konig Tarantula 17x7s on my 98 BD. Look really good, but the offset (+35) is not the best without camber and/or rolling.

1/4 of the weight to ship my HHG to SoCar was tools, presses, cabinets, and parts...

Welcome back J. Glad you made it back safe and sound. I still recommend the team up at HB Speed. Link here

There are some 16s that clear the stock brakes, but darn few... someone on here had a set IIRC.

Same thing with the Volk GT-Vs... very shiny lip and quite possibly, in the near future, will have a noble gold interior to go with the polished lip.

^ Would look awesome with gold mesh and polished lip.

Like the wheel, just not a fan of the multi-fit PCD (5x100 & 5x114.3)

So the only issue electronically with the 6MT conversion is the NSS? And you can use the 5MT NSS?

Holy Snikeys Batman - WTH happened and where did that come from?

Same model as mine (pics a few posts back) but mine are a lowly 18x8 +46 on lowered LGT Subenwagen. And, I'm with DoaC - they're definitely not chrome - Mercury Silver FTW!!!

I'm running +46 18x8 with 225/40x18 MPS (which are a fairly wide tire) on lowered suspension, so it sounds like either 1) your suspension isn't keeping up with the wheel travel or 2) your tire is exceptionally wide. Unless your lip sticks back past the curve of your fender line (inner and outer), I would think that it would be really hard to rub that area. BTW - how much does your DR33/tire combo weigh?

It's now stickied.

Add a bit of negative camber (-.5* to -.75*) and you'll likely be good to go except on the narliest of bump/turns when you may rub a bit on the fender liner up inside the wheel well. Are you using the offset LCA bushings, or is your car lowered?

Yeah - anything that takes the sponginess/gaps out of the diff bushings has got to help some. I wish there were a way to set up a video of the rear diff under load, both from the front and rear of it, to pinpoint what is actually happening back there. Replacing the 4boxparts RALLs with Perrin bits helped, but didn't do away with the clunking on hard turns under acceleration - and even sometimes under straight-line acceleration under less than dry conditions.

One that has seen record low temps (sub-teens and 20s) for a lot of this winter...coldest on record. And SeeeYa doesn't have that car anymore so someone on here might have it now and can comment.

^ Good point - thanks!