SBT

Exactly - left that off of my comment above.

^ And if you do install a hard front bush in the rear LCA say goodbye to any significant camber back there as that is where most would be getting it. Short of installing top camber plates. As Uncle Mat says, camber via the rear LCA is hack.

seanlsb - ^ More critical reviews here Would really hate to be the Z owner...that sucks.

That slide into place in the groove in the bottom edge and then are held in place by the end cap?

Yes - the outside dimensions Don't know if those "flatter" aero 3700AW bars would be a strong in the middle (unless they're solid) as the our rectangular (Thule-like) or even round bars (Yakima-like). And yes, the 3700 series are updated versions of our OEM bars/mount system.

Leo - may have misunderstood your question. Are you talking about the end caps or wrapping something around the bar to quiet them down in the air flow? I've lost a couple of my end caps and I was going to order some new ones (which only come in bulk). Without the end caps, these bars are noisy mofos fosho.

What's the physical outside dimensions on the cross-bar? I'm thinking of ordering a bunch of caps (and will be happy to share with the LGT wagon crew) and just need to know the actual size. Mine's in storage right now or I'd measure it.

Check with Opie to see what he has available, unless others on here have access to the official databases.

Looks like .62 each Here plus shipping.

Yeah, was wondering that myself.

The guy who I work with, lives in North San Diego County and travels to paint stuff. He was Boyd Coddington's painter just before Charlie started. He quit to start his own business. He only uses the finest German paints and his work is amazing.

Front: $107.96 Center: $42.40 Rear: $100.76 (both) Here Glad to help.

And I've heard he's really good with Subarus:)

There's actually two ahead of the turbo: P/N: 22641AA32A (Front O2 Sensor) - Manifold P/N: 22629AA012 (Center O2 Sensor) - UpPipe And 1 after the turbo (with different P/Ns for MT or AT) P/N: 22690AA69A (Rear O2 Sensor) - Rear Cat (Manual Trans) P/N: 22690AA70A (Rear O2 Sensor) - Rear Cat (Auto Trans)

It's under Subaru TSB 03-58-08. Here's crappy jpegs as the TSB is too large to upload by itself. Here's also a link, but it's going down shortly so get it while you can. TSB 03-58-08

Honestly, if I ever get around to this, and I do plan to do it, I'm going to put both of you on a consultancy retainer. Keep up the great work and do document everything as well as you can for those of us who will follow. Your efforts are really appreciated.

PM'd you. File size is too large to post on the board. WRT the Sunroof issues, there's two TSBs. 1st is: 12-97-07R Sunroof Opening Trim 2nd is: 12-100-07 Sunroof Rod and Shade Hook

Any in particular that you're looking for?

Dash - give them a few days to break in. One of mine is a 16 on 6.5" rims but I can't imagine there would be that much difference between the 16s and 17s. The other is a 17" x 7.5" rim and I can't tell the difference between the handling

^^ You don't mention tire pressures, but I run 38F/36R on my two stock 98 LGTs which both have this tire and the handling is pretty darn firm. At stock pressures 32F/30R, not so much. At 38/36, turn-in is precise and wet/dry handling is excellent. These are my second choice behind my MPS ASes on my LGT. And they really do need a few weeks to break-in, so don't write them off too quickly.

Yeah - that's what I meant - thanks for clarifying I guess it's possible, as long as it doesn't compromise the structural integrity of the cross-bar itself and thus the load-bearing utility.

Like the low profile, just too bad that you can't use all of the roof rail's fore and aft capacity. Only downside I can see though.

What kind do you have? Mine doesn't give me any lift. In fact, at speed, I can open the sunroof and put my hand on the keel and there's no bouncing or lifting going on. I find that keeping the hole between the cross-bars helps. That said, if it were a sit-on-top, I'd definitely flip it over onto it's top and lash it down that way. I notice a 1 mpg loss with the kayak on top, same as I get when I use my Yakima 16 Pro Box.

I use Thule's Roller Coaster Kayak Rack in the back and their Hydro Glide Saddle Kayak rack in the front and that's it. I strap the kayak down (right-side up) at just the front and rear cross bars and don't use any thing else. It's a 17.5' VCP Skerry Sea Kayak (55 lbs or so very similar to an Avocet) and works really well with this setup. Here's some pics from a previous post. The extra line looking thing around the bow/stern area is my lock cable. Super easy to get the yak on top of the car. Just throw a towel over the rear spoiler to protect it from any sand/grit that might fall off onto it, lift the boat up, set it on the rear Roller Coaster, and slide it directly forward unto the Hydro Glide Saddle. Slide it fore/aft until you get it where you want it - I slide it forward until the forward edge of the skirt ledge is directly above the front edge of the front crossbar - strap it down so that the strap "locks" into/under the skirt edge, do the same at the rear and I'm done. 10 minutes tops. Undo the straps, slide the yak back and off and you're ready to put-in or off-load/store your boat. No need for bow/stern tie-offs at all and absolutely no issues with lifting/bouncing or crosswind issues, cruises effortlessly at freeway speeds.