SBT

^ Yes - that's a common issue due to the precision with which the two surfaces (engine and transmission) mate-up, coupled with the typical corrosion around the steel dowel pins (aluminum and steel don't play well together over the long term). Anti-seize, or even just good lithium or molybdenum grease on those pins (on re-install) will help a lot IF you have to crack that seam for any reason in the future. To your other point, something else must be causing you NOT to be able to get the clutch out as you can see in the video and from other's comments, it is possible to do this with the axles still attached.

Do you have the 4BoxParts rear lower adjustable lateral links (or other RLALL)? If so, check your bushings. I have very loud popping/clacking on left right turns under throttle and find that the outside rubber bushings are shot. Replacing them with Perrin's spherical ball units (which BTW are normally $270/set - now on sale on their site for $124.99/set.

^ They have a way of doing that...

Linea Corsas look great.

How deep was the snow and how bad was the ice? 6-8" of untouched wet snow on ice - no problems, good traction, stopping and going. 1/2"-3/4" of black ice with no snow - didn't know I was on black ice until I went to accelerate - then had wheel spin, but still had good control. Very tractable and car snapped back to on-center with no issues. 1-2" of dry snow on 1/2" of ice - drivable/manageable unless pushed through turns - but these are the most dangerous conditions so be prudent and don't push the car - tires will get you through 6-10" of thrashed snow with some ice - good traction, stopping and going What is the average amount of miles you get out of them? 1st set of 17s probably had 25k plus and would have easily gone to 35k, but replaced them because winter was coming on and we were expecting more rain/snow that normal so bought a replacement set. 2nd set of 17s still looks new - have never used the full-size 17" MPS AS spare 18s have been on since February and have about 15k on them including a major cross-country trip, towing the aforementioned trailer. Tire wear is even and I expect to get 35k out of this set before i look to replace them Do you think they would be pretty good in the snow with a RWD car as well? I'd put them on as long as you put them at all four corners and you don't have major offset and size differences front-to-rear, i.e., bmw m3 comes to mind They really track well, and the front/rear combo compliments the handling across-the-board HTH

Stickied.

Didn't recall seeing this thread previously. Here's mine with Volk GT-V in Mercury Silver 18x8 +46. 225/40x18 NeoGens, now running MPS ASes. At some point, I'll likely send these to Tru Wheel in North Hollywood and have them do the Noble Gold center section. Car is setting on Bilstein Spec B, Rev C struts with Swift Sport wagon springs.

Link to the whole set of Group N bushings (front to rear)?

I just stickied it in the transmission forum.

Sorry FB - been relocating to the East Coast the past two weeks and haven't had a chance to catch-up with all the threads. Current versions are 225/40x18 standard (non-Plus) versions, previous two sets were 225/45x17 also standard versions. All three sets have seen relatively deep/wet/heavy snow (pushing snow) and some substantial ice-driving in the SoCal mountains. "How do they do?" In a word: Excellent - In all driving conditions. Superb winter tire, phenomenal in the dry and equally excellent in the wet. Last week, came through Tropical Storm Ida all the way from Mississippi to Georgia with a 1200 lb trailer in tow and all I can say is I never had a handling/stopping/going issue in gale force winds, driving rain, and significant standing water at highway speeds. And these things wear like rhino hide, and do so with limited road noise. Just run them at 36 (or 37) psi Front and 34 (or 35) psi Rear (keeping the +2 psi front bias), and alignment settings of Toe: 0* all around, Camber: -.75* Front and -1.0* Rear (w/0* cross-camber) and you'll have no issues with camber wear. Will be replacing this set with a "Plus" set when these finally get "done". HTH with your decision.

Done

Another thing to do with these is to wrap/run a 3/16" nylon piece of line from one side to the next, with the "coils" spaced about 2-3" apart. That will break up the wind-flow and make them much quieter.

Follow-on: The plastic inserts go in to the slot before you attach the towers, then the cap on the end.

^^ By inserts I presume you mean the T-shaped plastic pieces with the measure markings on them?? If so, then those go into the "slots" on the bottom side of the cross bars to seal up the slot where the tightening/attachment bolt for the towers slides in from either end. And, the reason that the front/rear measurements are different is that the front towers set further apart than the rears, and therefore the slots (where the T-shaped plastic pieces go) are shorter in the rear. HTH

No matter who does it, you're looking at $3-4K in labor beyond any parts you import or might need.

Anyone there is great! My preference is Pete (Jamal) as he's got the most run-time there and is probably the most experienced suspension guy in the area. Plus, he's a Legacy owner so he's automatically got extra cache. There've already been several Legacys through HBS, so I wouldn't worry about that aspect. Later-gen Subarus are basically the same model-to-model with minor variances for the individual chassis and or drive train setups.

HB Speed in Fountain Valley. Can do it all. They installed my LCA bushes and the WL Roll-Center Kit, in addition to the Bilstein/Swift conversion from stock setup. They also recently tuned my stage 2 bits and will be installing and tuning the WBR FMIC FP18G setup.

His name is Jerry Morris, and his phone number is: (760) 717-7459. Company is Finishline.

I believe they are the #1 rated A/S UHPAS tire on Tire Rack (TR) and they well-deserve that rating. When I upgraded to the 18" I bought them from TR. Shipped price was less than I could find locally and it only took them a day to get them here from Lost Wages (LV, NV), then had them mounted at my local Discount Tire (DT). I bought the two pairs of 17" from DT, where they not only price-matched local competitors, but threw in life-time balancing and rotation to keep my business. I've had short experience with Conti Extreme Contact but the MPS AS far exceeded the CECes in every dimension. I also have RE960s on my 98 LGT (BD) and they are also stellar performers, but truly believe that my 05 LGTW would overwhelm them and I wouldn't be as happy with them as I am on the NA 98 LGT. Just my experience and thoughts.

I run the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S - phenomenal handling in all conditions (short of full-blown deep snow), long-wearing (30K+) and reasonably quiet through the full tread wear. Just a great all-around tire. FWIW - I usually replace tires as a set to keep the AWD system happy and don't spend the extra money on replacement warranties. That said, I did replace 1 tire when I hit a pothole and fractured the rim and blew-out the sidewall. I'd only had the tires on for about a month so I'd lost < 1/32 off the tread and could stay within the 1/4" circumference variance S-to-S/F-to-R. In that case DT applied Michelin's warranty and replaced the tire for the price of the dismount/remount. That's also the point in time when I replaced the donut spare with a full-size MPS AS spare.

I know a great paint guy - In Vista/San Marcos area.

Nicely done.

^^ Please do and let me know the link and I'll sticky it.

Yes - I've heard it a few times, and all post lowering springs so I suspect it's related to the rear suspension compression, and the dynamic changes to the rear articulations that are due to that, more than bushings per se.

Maybe That is the answer. There was an issue with the 05's that they fixed in 06???? Dunno and has anyone looked/checked PNs and such between the two years?