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Your welcome. Don't be in a hurry to replace items, just because of age, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. At 306,000 miles, my 05 had all its engine sensor's it left the factory with. Except the O2's.

310Z, how come that car has no rust under it ?

Personally, I have never like them. I was taught to use teflon tape many decades ago and still only use it. I think you have to let the liquid stuff set up before it seals...? I must have 5 or 6 rolls of teflon tape around the house.

Good luck, it should come out without to much trouble. You may even slide a short piece of pipe over the ratchet handle to add leverage.

Are you using a 1/2" drive set up to break it loose ? I would use a 3/8" drive when going together, that will limit the torque you can apply. AGAIN, don't over tighten it, tapered threads seal as they turn in when you have 4 or 5 wraps of teflon tape.

I gather there are wrench flats on your sensor ?

Again, the tapered threads only need pipe tape and snugging. DON'T try to get it so tight you break it. I spent the last 20 years while working, making up test set ups, using lots of NPT fittings. You tighten enough, not over tighten. It's normal to see threads exposed when it's tight enough. You may try to hit the head of the breaker bar with a hammer, making a home made impact wrench, while pushing or pulling in the off direction.

The torque is low, Use some oil resistant teflon tape on the threads of the fitting and screw it in tight enough, not to tight, you can always snug it gently if needed. It's tapered pipe threads. YES, I have seen people crack the block. Is this the sensor you are talking about ? https://www.google.com/search?q=subaru+oil+pressure+sensor&rlz=1C1OKWM_enUS906US906&oq=Subaru+oil+pressure+sensor&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUqBwgAEAAYgAQyBwgAEAAYgAQyBwgBEAAYgAQyBwgCEAAYgAQyBwgDEAAYgAQyBwgEEAAYgAQyBwgFEAAYgAQyCAgGEAAYFhgeMggIBxAAGBYYHjIICAgQABgWGB4yCAgJEAAYFhge0gEJODM2NGowajE1qAIAsAIA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

When I sold my 05 with 306,000 miles, except for the O2's it had all its original sensors. The car had lots of highway miles...so you may not need to spend the cash. If you feel the need, only buy name brand from a reputable Import shop, or local auto parts store. Support a local and small business. For wheel speed sensors, I googled the OEM p/n and found NAPA had them.

Just got an email from NAPA. $20 card for T6 https://www.napaonline.com/offers/rotella?dtm_em=668ab52370c75779127cb1796d06b3de0810db3f89dff7e1b5963ffda0f80d1a&mi_u=2251624&mi_ecmp=email_prod_pd20231103nrm_merkle_castrolrain_11-03-23&cid=EMAIL-email_prod_pd20231103nrm_merkle_castrolrain_11-03-23-Mod3-CTA&utm_source=Mod3-CTA&utm_medium=EMAIL&utm_campaign=email_prod_pd20231103nrm_merkle_castrolrain_11-03-23&deliveryName=DM25439

No, but my guess is a bad spark plug. Tell us the age of the plugs and coils ? You do know...these cars like to be driven for distance. Only time my wagon had a miss-fire, was when I knew I was way over the spark plug life. I was pushing 80,000+ miles on the old plugs.

All this brake talk should be in that forum...but, I'll say, if you are not hitting the brakes hard all the time, using maximum braking, just get a good set of stock style pads and rotors. Unless I drove the Brembo pads hard, the shimmy would come back, that was on my Spec B, which the GF is with me a lot when I drove it. The wagon had good OEM style pads & rotors and stopped smooth every time. Why, because not race car.

I hope you got that girl's name...might be someone you could build a relationship with...may have more benefits than just a mechanic...

I stick my Maui Jim sunglasses in there. That way they are easy to get when I need them. The car sits in the garage most of the time, not out in the hot sun. The Outback has the same spot.

here,

Sorry to hear your troubles. Sorry there was no reply sooner. I guess that's because these cars are getting older now and a lot of us have moved on. First off, do you have to repair this car ? It's not going to be cheap. Could be as simple as just corroded connections, but you would have to pop off each connector and inspect it. I think that would be the first step, before just jumping to replacing the engine or shortblock. You can use a new OEM shortblock, ej257, about $2300 US with engine gasket set. You have your heads rebuilt, and reuse your other bolt on engine parts. You can click on my click here link to see that's what I did back April 2012.

The other tip for rough running when it's cold outside, is to replace the small black o-rings at the intake to TGV's with the larger orange one's. But by now, I would think that has been done...unless someone from the south moved north to colder conditions. If you look, you should be able to see the color by looking at that joint. The o-rings have a tab that sticks out. I'll see if I have a picture... Look for the orange tab in the upper left of photo. By that white plastic clip on intake runner.

Oh, come on now, you new guys, this is a very old issue. Here's how I fixed mine many years ago. I used lockwire and sealed the rubber fuel ends. I guess you may try needle nose vise-grips and tighten that screw from the threads ends

There's the other thread about this issue.

bump to the top Here's the other thread...

Bumping back to the top.

If you can ride in the backseat while someone drives the car...you can hear a lot of things from back there. The other tip, drove next to a large concrete wall. Something like at the end of a shopping plaza with the window down. Sound will bounce off the wall.

If you want a great setup, that Spec LWFW and 2+ clutch is a very easy set up to drive. Light paddle pressure but great hold. Call them and get exactly what you need. Great customer service.

When I changed from the SPec LWFW to the stock 07-09 smfw I did not change the tune. Can you just get a replaceable friction surface for your FW, like the one on my Spec LWFW ?