Notorious

You either have to compromise camber, tire width, ride height, or all of the above. Most people on here will tell you to do the latter. I run a 18x9.5 with 255s with only a 1.25 inch drop on JDM coils and I still rub with -2 camber.

Hubs and axles and basically half the STI swap is what I’ve heard. I would just find wheels that fit.

Most likely the pictures themselves. I cannot open them either.

Got hit with the P1238 TPS check engine light tonight. Thought my FMIC couplers blew loose. Cleared the code and got home no problem. Looks like I got another date tomorrow night taking apart the gas pedal assembly and checking connections. My 4th Gen Legacy is my true love anyways and maybe this is her way of asking for my attention this year.

No. The 08-09 facelift headlights won’t be compatible with your prefacelift bumper and fenders. And on top of that, the wiring connectors are different. If the Spec B didn’t have headlight leveling already, it would be a pain to rewire them in with the new headlights.

We need a thorough experiment by covertrussian to test this out...

I find it easier to lift one side slightly at a time to get the right angles so that the holes line up straight. Not that it matters now though since you’re probably not going to touch those endlinks again unless you’re using the Whiteline adjustable bar.

No, they are very different systems and a full swap isn’t going to be a simple plug and play.

Check the fuses. You can buy the complete wiring harness for the headlight separately..

Are you talking about the pod or the gauges? The pod has a screw on the middle that goes where the center cubby used to attach to. The gauges clamp onto the pod with some hardware the gauges should have come with.

Do you have a press at home? You can't burn out all of these bushings with a torch.

I recently fried my Morimoto XBT controller for my headlights due to my negligence of disconnecting the battery. Got it replaced under warranty thankfully Glad it wasn't the ECU though. Definitely going to be disconnecting the battery more often. Picked up a set of OEM headlights from the junkyard in great shape and I'll be retrofitting and selling them here within the next few weeks. Also have a 2017 STI Steering Rack waiting to be installed. Need to trim the inner tie rods and I'll be set to go through with it. I'm dreading bleeding the power steering more than installing the rack itself. Any recommendations for PS fluid/ATF fluid to use? Just contacted DoctorDave about installing the passenger STI seat that I'd like to get started on within the next couple days. Should be a busy weekend.

Also it might matter if it’s an Outback or Sedan. The engine in the Outback sits slightly lower in the engine bay I’ve been told for center mass balancing. Can’t confirm it though myself.

Output is better distributed and overall brighter than the D2S 5.0. If you run “off road only” CBI’s on any HID projector they will obviously be brighter though but at those high Kelvin color ratings you’re really trading off usable light with looks. Any 2.5 inch projector like the D2S will easily fit behind stock shrouds. It’s the 3.0+ projectors that will require some slight cutting.

I just bought some USDM headlights from the junkyard in great shape. I’m going to retrofit the old projectors onto those and will be selling them after a complete restore and retrofit. Message me if you’re interested but be aware that it won’t be cheap. I’ve been doing this for years actually.

Leveling switch sold!

Use a Morimoto Elite kit or DiodeDynamics.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F202676916177 Maybe this would be what you need at a cheaper price than through the dealership?

If you’re talking about those cheap HID kits on eBay and Amazon, the proper answer is no. But, most people have been running them successfully without burning their projectors. I will admit, I did it for years with a good quality kit. OEM projectors are plastic, proper HID projectors are built for higher heat and most of them are solid metal. Cheaper kits run hotter, you risk burning the projector itself and cracking the lens of the headlight.

Retrofit is the way to go. Completely changing the projector with something designed much better > any OEM or plug and play option out there. It is expensive though and takes some skill I’d say. I just swapped out my Morimoto D2S 5.0 projectors with the new Morimoto MLED 2.0 Bi-LED projectors. Crazy how wide and bright they are over stock and actually much wider than the D2S 5.0 which was the previous flagship HID projector. The retro quick kit is another easier option but if you go through the trouble of opening the headlights, might as well go big or go home. The H1 Bixenon in that kit is child’s play in comparison to a D2S 5.0 or equivalent Something to note with the JDM headlights (I run them too) is that the OEM ballasts are 50w I believe. Something to keep in mind that this may not perfectly match the D2S bulb you want to run unless you swap the ballast out too, which isn’t too difficult with the headlight already out of the car. Most aftermarket bulbs are 35w or 55w. If you’re trying to get the LED DRL in the JDM headlights to match your HID low beam, good luck. Hard to match an LED with an HID regardless of how close you can get to the Kelvin rating of the LED bulbs. There are a lot of retailers like DiodeDynamics that already sell LED conversion kits.

Don’t overtighten the bolt for the pump though. The plastic fitting is old and prone to cracking if you get too crazy with it. Ask me how I know.... I ended up using JB weld over the fitting and the bolt to prevent it leaking and sucking in air. Couldn’t find any pumps in the junkyard and used OEM pumps are expensive.

Pristine condition on this JDM double din for a single HVAC setup with the JDM Hazard Switch. Both tested and in working condition. $200 + shipping obo Center cubby Bezel with RH vents, can easily swap over the LH drive vents. I also think I have a spare clock and cubby parts that can be swapped onto it. Let me know. $40 + shipping I also have the JDM headlight leveling switch necessary to use the leveling motors on the JDM headlights. Also has the button for the folding side mirrors. Does not come with the connectors behind it though. $60 + shipping

Like said, the proper wheel fitment will be better than the spacer. But to further answer your question, the performance of the wider tire and wheel is very variable because wheels and tires vary so much in weight and performance plus considering how the car is actually going to make use of that wider tire and weight difference... Just because you have 9+ wide wheels on a GT doesn’t mean it’s going to be better on the track than another GT with 7 wide wheels and vice versa. It’s not really something you can answer unless you test it yourself apples to apples on the track on the same day with similar conditions.

I regret the recall as well. I did it in 2017 and I know it’s not completely their fault but they messed up all the wiring for my gauges (which were not in the way by any means) and didn’t have the guts to tell me sorry or anything and the dash rattle also came back with a vengeance. I do carry a passenger pretty often and I was concerned but if there’s any way to buy it yourself, I’d look into it.

Welcome to the forums. Yes, the rear door shell is interchangeable. The glass on the rear doors between the sedan and wagon are different.