Notorious

Price drop

Bump, open to any offers

NEW Coolingmist Stage 1 setup. It includes: 1.5 gallon tank 1.3GPM 200psi Injection pump Large amount of injection line (you could run it from trunk) Adjustable Hobbs switch to the exact psi(default is at 10psi) check valve CM7 injection nozzle which is good for 320-375hp. All wiring, rubber boost line, screws, etc. Decided I no longer need this. Great alternative to E85. $220 shipped! $200 shipped!

I have the MLED 2.0's.... Big upgrade over D2S 5.0

Yesterday I did a wipe down on the exterior for a photoshoot. Got some roller shots in. When I got home, I did a full interior detail on both my cars. Had to grab the disinfectants this time. I should have taken the Legacy on a spirited run before midnight because apparently California is now on lockdown. Entire state is encouraged to stay home unless it is essential to leave the home for work or necessities. Not entirely sure what this means but I am unfortunately out of work for at least two weeks or longer... I work with a lot of immunocompromised people and our clinic has shut down until this whole thing passes over. I'll survive, but I guess it was not a smart idea to spend money on car parts throughout the last two months or so. On the bright side, there are plenty of things I can do in the garage now with all this free time. Still have to install the STI Rack, wire up power folding mirrors to the BIU (for unlock and lock folding), and adjust the coilovers and rear camber arms... Blessing in disguise? Stay safe everyone. Be wise and sanitize (your cars).

Installed the JDM spats and strakes and grabbed some pics. So much better than the RokBlokz mudflaps even though they aren’t as functional. No regrets at all.

Pm sent

I also wonder if the RacerX FMIC piping is causing this. It does hit the metal at some of the bends. I wrapped the all the piping with the titanium exhaust wrap just to help combat metal on metal contact but maybe the contact still is causing knock readings. I would think though that it would register knock when I give it gas from idle in neutral, but it doesn't. I can't get any knock changes in neutral which is why I thought it was drivetrain related.

Stock flywheel, Stage 1 Exedy Clutch. I do have stiffer bushings and Kartboy short shifter. I guess I can't get rid of those but I'll check the alternator and such parts around that area. Could even an alternator cover cause this? Mine doesn't fit perfectly (modified Perrin) and sometimes loosens over time but I've tightened it and no change.

Bump. I guess this is something either nobody has similar experience with or something everyone just deals with if it’s not too big a deal? Feedback knock spikes to a max of -12 sometimes after shifting into 4th and not even pressing gas yet. Might have to do with lift off or during gear engagement but idk.

Recently I've been dealing with a lot of false knock in between shifts after harder acceleration, typically from 2nd to 3rd but honestly it can happen between any gear. I've sent multiple sets of logs to my tuner and he insists that it is false. I do believe him but I cannot find what could be causing this. I also get low feedback knock readings from -2 to -3 when I pull into my steep driveway staying in 1st gear and dancing with the pedal to get to my spot in the garage. Seems to trip the knock sensor when engaging the clutch at times. I figure that it can't be exhaust shield rattling since I don't have any being while being catless. I've checked bushings (everything that whiteline offers, I basically have). My motor mount and trans mounts are STI Group N and had them on for a while now. My guess is that it might be drivetrain/transmission related but not sure where or what to check. Can a wearing clutch/flywheel cause this? I have no signs of issue with my clutch though. I can upload some logs if that is helpful. Also, nothing registers on Fine Knock Learn and DAM never changes below 1. Has anybody dealt with this before? Thanks.

All three potential culprits are valid reasons to throw that code. Start with cheapest to most expensive. 1) Check for any vacuum or fuel leaks. 2) Get a Bluetooth dongle for like $15-$25 to look at AFR and maybe fuel trims if that’s possible (I’ve never done this personally before, can’t tell you what works or not because I use my Cobb AP for the turbo model which you can’t use for yours) 3) Replace the spark plugs with NGK or Denso. 4) Test the catalytic convertor(use an infrared temp gun to compare post and pre cat temps, if post cat is not hotter or the margin is very slim then likely the cat has failed but any of the other problems you looked at could have caused this failure. Alternatively you can pull off the cat and inspect the cells visually if it’s blocked. 5) Replace O2 sensor with Bosche or Denso My bet is that the cat has failed. All that oil that you mentioned earlier that disappeared had to have gone somewhere and likely out the exhaust and through the cat which clogged it or fouled all the metal. Original reason for the code could have been something else but the second time around it’s a safe bet that cat is the problem.

Pics?

No purpose of routing that through the fog light. Good luck filtering out debris and water. Most people remove the headlight housing completely and replace it with this kind of setup.

Could try packing some grease in that hole to see if it brings the noise down a little bit.

Cam seals can leak through the timing cover and trickle to the back of the passenger head. Most of the smoke is probably the oil falling directly onto the header is what I’d assume. Also entirely possible that the shop didn’t do the valve cover replacement right.

Just rebuild your OEM axles yourself with a reboot kit and don’t worry about it again for another 100k. Assuming that’s the only thing wrong with your axles. Non OEM axles will cause more vibration at idle for automatics.

FWIW, I haven’t had issues with the LC-1. But because of the location (at the bell mouth) I replace my wideband sensor every year anyways for assurance. I have my LC1 output wired to the rear O2 sensor wire so I can log it on the AP.

Willing to bet the only difference is the cable length. Wouldn’t imagine the connectors could be different.

Using a high quality EL header = gains Not all EL headers are created the same. The volume and length of the runners play a big role into that which is why nobody makes their own EL or UEL headers if they care about power instead of sound. The boxer rumble is the sound of inefficiency and getting rid of that gives you more power potential.

If your main priority is really for quicker spool, go equal length. KillerB is my suggestion as they stand by their product and have better welds and construction compared to Perrin and Invidia which would be the next best thing.

FYI, the best way to really get it flush is to use a heat gun on the bumper.

I think F/R split may be tacky lol, I did a L/R split. It’s funny when someone asks me if I got new wheels because they see the other side of my car for the first time.

Nice, welcome to the mismatched Enkei club of 2 members. I have some NT03's in gold and silver.

Side skirt, other piece is usually called the dog leg trim piece or rear wheel arch trim piece.