VespaGTS

Also, There is no friggin way I feel good about pulling off the manifold, TGV, fuel rails, and fuel lines. I am maxed out after the dive I have already done on this project. I have learned a lot. The stock parts are going back to Subaru tomorrow.

Found it. The AN4 t-fitting fractured once the turbo was bolted down. The clearance issue is due to my car being an 07 and the banjo bolt is located on top of the block under the inlet. It’s a terrible place for a T-fitting and I am going to change the configuration when I pick up another T fitting tomorrow. Basically we will use a single line from the top of the block, route it to a t-fitting that splits the oil feed to the AVCS and Turbo. I do see how this could work if you had an 05-06 LGT. But the 07 is a different setup. Too bad IAG does not show routing for each block type. I believe there are four of them? I’ll post pics when Tapatalk goes back online.

I’ve got a bulletproofing kit for the TMIC. $75 plus shipping. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the advice. I have a friend that is coming over to help dial it in. The list is endless with these cars. So many options I love it and hate it at the same time. I was so close to having it buttoned up correctly. It figures that the first thing to go back on (oil line and banjo bolt under inlet) was the part that was 1. Not necessary. 2. Buried the deepest in the system. Good lessons here folks. Shitty but good. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just ordered stock oil lines and all new banjos and crush washers. I am pulling the intake to get it assembled. What else should be changed while I have it off? I mean if I am going this far I might as well replace any trouble spots that require manifold removal. I assume new manifold gaskets? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi guys, After closer inspection we found the following: The black connector from the IAG stainless line kit does not mount well in the space provided. The banjo bolt to block connection is good. The connection from the black t-fitting to the banjo looks like it is not square and that’s where it’s leaking. It’s possible it got tweaked a bit during install. Max, I didn’t use a 45 angle AN-10 fitting as there wasn’t space for it. We are going to pull it all apart and replace with OEM hard lines since the VF52 is basically a stock location setup anyway. It’s not a cheap fix at $226 in parts but it’s getting it back to correct function. Man, what a project for one connection. Live and learn I guess. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I didn’t use Teflon tape in the threads. I had installed and removed the thick washer location twice during install. Is it one time use with the copper washers? Ugh that’s a tough spot to get into without removing all of it on this 2007. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, I will try to make this as short and detailed as possible. I swapped my turbo for VF52. I also changed the oil feed lines to IAG. Once I had everything tightened down and got the car back together and on the ground I decided to do a quick start and shut down to make sure nothing was leaking. To my surprise oil was all over the floor (see pic). Oil return line from the turbo is connected and clamped on both sides. The IAG lines are connected but that’s the area I see oil filling the hex cap heads. I of course have not started the engine again due to me be alone working on it and not being able to shut it down fast enough. What areas should I inspect? It’s a lot of oil for a short run of 5 seconds. If anyone is in Bend Oregon and is willing to help let me know. At this point I am scheduling shop time as I am exhausted from the install. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My thoughts exactly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am installing my VF52 and the IAG oil lines. It’s tight in that area and I want to make sure everything is routed correctly. Does this look correct for attachment to the head? The line on the right goes to AVCS and the left to turbo. The line up just seems so wonky? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks guys. I’ll get after it! Max, I have the bolts and will do as you suggest with the turbo to up pipe. One of the oil return lines for the PCV broke easily when I removed it. Also the turbo oil return line was very hardened after so many years so I replaced them. I’ll get some reflectagold and apply it. Thanks Shralp!

SPT works on the Sedan but not so well on the wagon. I had it already on the car when I bought it. I wish I had a Borla simply for the fact that it would not be melting my rear bumper cover. LOL! I started with the turbo inlet, EBCS, vac lines and turbo oil feed lines, next is the up pipe and turbo. I’m not looking forward to lining up the inlet to the turbo. I was not sure if I should do the inlet before the turbo? I might have to keep it loose for now. I had to stop as it’s been a long day and patience is going to be in short supply.

Hi guys, What is the correct order of installation for these parts? Everything is currently off the car except for the headers. Here are the parts that need to go back on: -ELH installed already. -up pipe from GS -VF52 IHI -Stainless IAG turbo oil feed lines. -Turbo Inlet Rev9 -BPV hose due to me tearing it. It’s a Samco -EBCS and lines also GS -DP with cat from CNT -Cat back exhaust from SPT -TMIC stock I have all gaskets and clamps so I am ready to go. Do I still run the plastic engine splash guard I am worried the heat from the headers will just cook it. I was told to avoid heat wrap due to maintenance and possible fire from any unknown future oil leaks. Thanks in advance as I don’t want to remove and replace due to one damn vacuum line.

It is more of a blue tint on the chrome ring housing for the low beam. Unless he did something to them. I have a set as well.

I tore the damn BPV pipe. Ugh... Ordered a Samco from Flatirons tuning. I hope it shows fast.

So I might have found one little issue. There was no clip on the lower connection of the oil drain pipe. That being said there was not a lot of oil below that area? I'm putting it back together today so I will add a clip and hope for the best. I have 2007 and the banjo bolt with the screen is located under the turbo inlet so I have to the that out today. Then I will know if there is a tear in it, What a terrible location for this banjo. FYI - I see that KillerB is making a hard pipe inlet that should be available in June. https://www.killerbmotorsport.net/killer-b-motorsport-extreme-flow-hard-turbo-inlet.html

Thanks man! You see more of these than most of us. Now my issue is the IAG oil feed line install on a 2007. It’s a different setup than 05-06. I should have left the stock lines instead. But now that they are out I have no way to go back unless I buy OEM.

Yes, I think thats best.

The pipe isn't ripped as it did pass the smoke test not long ago. I just would rather be safe than sorry since I don't want to pull it apart again, what a pain in the ass. I should note that there was no clamp on the bottom of the oil drain and that could be part of it. I guess the Subaru dealer in Sacramento didn't replace it, which is strange? The VF46 has no shaft play at all. But the VF52 has to go in at this point. So if I do decide replace should I go aftermarket or stock? Which brand is the least pain to install?

I am upgrading from VF46 to VF52. During removal I noticed a nice build up of oil residue on there front of the cool side. Does this indicate an intake leak? It smoke tested clean previously and hopefully will after the new turbo is installed. Does this look normal for a car with 140k? I am pulling banjo bolts and installing IAG oil feed kit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here ya go... plug and play but you do need to flip the shields. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/jdm-usdm-headlight-harness-bl-bp-283236.html

If those wheels were white and no eyebrow on headlights. I like it.

FYI - I ordered the front calipers, pads and rotors. They should be here in a week. I might paint them Subaru rally blue. I also might get lazy, LOL. I have a VF52, GS up pipe and cross pipe with ported exhaust manifolds to install as well. Then tuning. I do love my little money pit for sure.

What color are you painting them?

Just to be clear about what I’m going to need to do this conversion. I will need front rotors, decent pads like EBC, but I will not need the mounting bracket for the caliper due to it bolting to the bracket mounting points. Correct?