VespaGTS

The more I think about it, I am either going to do Denso or Koyorad and skip the nice aluminum radiator. If I was going high HP or tracking the car then I would get serious about cooling. For my DD, even pushing a bigger turbo, TBE, etc isn't enough to warrant the expense.

Hi guys, CSF is making a radiator in the "O" series. LOL, no comment needed. Part #30760 $650.00 http://www.csfrace.com This sounds like a lot for a radiator, but once I add a Koyorad along with the trans cooler the price is getting close. I like the idea of replacing my radiator with a Koyorad aluminum, but I am not sure I want to take on the trans cooler mod as well if this is mostly plug and play. So if anyone is running this setup please comment. I am shooting an email to them asking about fitment on a Legacy Vs. the WRX. Thanks!

Thats good news. The trails I saw in China were a big NOPE! Some were just boards lashed together and a cable. "American Dies in Hiking Fail" -South China News

Makes me happy I have a 2007 with a filter.

Wow, yeah that's a lot at $47 plus shipping. But also it sounds tempting due to function being so high. I think I will try to cut up a HEPA filter and stuff it in there first. If that's a no go I will order one of these.

I had to put one on in the car the other day driving to Eugene over the mountains where the fires are. AQI was above 800ppm and nothing was going to stop it from smelling bad in the car. This is the first car I have owned that has a cabin air filter in it so I remember the days without them.

Hi guys, The cabin air filter in our cars works pretty well. But even the best versions only filter down to 5 microns which isn't enough for the 2.5 micron wildfire smoke we are having again this year out west. Has anyone come up with a good solution for a better cabin air filter? Bosch makes HEPA filters for many cars just not the 4th Gens. I might have to cut up a 3M - 2800 filter that I buy at Lowes? I will post results if I do. Anyway, let me know if there is an option I have missed? Thanks everyone!

That’s a great photo Max! I went with Muteki SR48. Thanks guys!

I’ve recently added Brembo brakes to the front of my car. The fit is quite close. I will be adding ARP studs and open ended lugs due to stud length. There are so many products on the market it’s crazy. What do you guys think are good for the money? Also what material? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey Joe, I'm in Bend as well. Hit me up if you need to.

Stock oil pan. I have no idea why it was loose?

My Fumoto oil drain plug had become loose and I was losing oil. Not sure how this could have happened? Maybe heat cycles and being overlooked for torque specs at oil change intervals? It went in originally at correct torque spec. Just saying it’s worth a look! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Me too and it looks amazing. Thanks Madrig!

Check end links as well. Kartboy are solid endlinks if you have rough roads. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There are one of the most desirable parts you can add. Used they cost around $800-1000. Part number is h5010ag000 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It was adjusted for atmospheric. I found a post on Nasioc that a guy had a similar problem due to air injection system. One of his sensors was blocked and threw it out of whack. Link: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2751142

i'll find out soon.

Updated ROM this morning. Fuel cut is gone after newest ROM update.romraiderlog_20210526_083359.csv

I just got my car back from the mechanic. He smoke tested for boost leak, vacuum leak, and exhaust leaks. None were found. There were no misfire events. MAF is clean. The mechanic says it is easily duplicated in 3rd gear only in open loop WOT at rpm as low as 2k. It is fuel cut. He thinks it’s something in the tune since no mechanical issues are present. Any ideas from you guys? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Exhaust manifolds.

Yes that’s the plan. First thing I am going to do is checking the electrical connections? Then test run and log. Then get a boost leak test, smoke test and exhaust leak inspection by a real shop. Just to cover my ass. There was a compression leak down test done last fall. It’s healthy otherwise. Do you guys think that’s a good starting order? Then fuel pump and filter. Then crank and cam sensors. Then coil packs and new plugs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I smell a scam and agree with infosecdad.

I do have a OBD reader. It’s not throwing any codes? I have used Tactrix OP and a tuner. He thinks it’s electrical. So yes I have to dig deeper into the why. I think starting with the fuel pump isn’t a bad idea if I go larger injectors eventually it will need one anyway. I really don’t want to put unnecessary parts on the car at all. I was able to get some used but working sensors for a good price. It’s the time and labor that eats the money. So thankfully I can do most of the work myself. I didn’t have any of these problems until I upgraded to VF52, silicone intake, and ported manifolds.

I will start with the fuel pump and filter first. I’m hoping I don’t have to do the sensors. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The TPMS is blinking and needs to be sorted. One wheel sensor is low battery. Yes, I tried shifting in manual mode but it still cuts power. I have ordered the sensors and will replace anyway. I also ordered an AEM 340lph fuel pump and a fresh fuel filter. I will also swap the plugs when I check the coil packs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk