VespaGTS

Pm'd

Great point. It’s not impeding movement.

Update: Did a professional smoke test and nothing was leaking. They see overboost in my log but its not the tune. They are thinking mechanical issues at this point. Also it happens in all SI driving modes. Potential causes being looked: Waste gate to EBCS hose diameter? Porting waste gate? New turbo? Currently VF46. Basically they don't know whats happening and we are looking for the mechanical cause of the problem. I don't want to bury myself in diagnostic expenses and searching for issues if I can help it. Any ideas?

Also, remove the springs from the middle section to allow your torso to drop further into the seat. So, much, better!

This is the best DIY mod I hav done in a long time. Make sure to do both drivers and passenger seats. My wife complains less now in the twists and so do I. Also, don't use your hands to stuff the foam in, use a tool to avoid cutting the heck out of yourself. Next up is seat cushion side bolsters, I know its possible to improve these as well.

Thanks I will check with the tuner and also check the vac lines again. I saw 19psi today without overboost error. It’s frickin weird.

It is the most recent tune. Post exhaust leak fix. He calculated for elevation but it is possible that the limit is set incorrectly. I saw almost 19psi yesterday when driving around without a overboost trigger so now I am thinking mechanical issues. He mentioned the possibility that the coil packs might be a problem. Would that trigger a PO244?

This log has the overboost cut happening during a third gear pull. The PO244 code is thrown and it is violent like you described above. I don’t plan on doing it often as I want my car to last. It’s a scary sound. Sounds like a $7k rebuild. Here is another log showing numbers that are recent. I am going to the exhaust shop next week for a smoke test. It is strange that I am not hitting target boost but throwing a code for overboosting. romraiderlog_20200724_092612.csv

I sent him a message and he is saying since it was tuned and running well previously it must be mechanical. So now I go down the path of vacuum leaks and boost leaks. Hopefully, it’s not boost creep. If anyone has a good write up about where to start that would be helpful. I am starting with vacuum leaks, I have replaced most of the lines already via Cryotunes post but it’s possible that it’s the cause.

I am hoping for some insight on a overboost issue. 2007 LGT 5EAT, tuned professionally but looking for some answers to why I would be overboosting with fuel cut. I have replaced all the vacuum lines and zip tied them. I recently had an exhaust leak repaired with Grimmspeed metal gaskets throughout each junction. Other Mods: Prodrive EBCS, Crawford AOS, CNT catted DP, stock UP, SPT Cat back, Perrin Crank Pulley, Perrin TB to IC pipe. If you have some skills would you mind taking a look and telling me what you see? Many thanks in advance! romraiderlog_20200502_094023.csv

Has anyone made replacement “plugs” for the rear seat child seat attachment points? 3D printing seems like a good idea since these things break so easy. Also, is there a list of 3D printed parts for the LGT?

Simply amazing dedication you guys.

Also possible. Strange that when I rev it in the garage I don’t hear a thing. Sounds perfect. Hmmm. I will have a professional take it for a drive next week.

This is totally possible. The exhaust shop installed them for me and even machined the DP so it would seal better. I can have them look at it again.

I think I am going to have a mechanic drive it. It’s one of those noises that I should not ignore. I’ll report back. I did try to record it but it’s tough when you are at peak torque to hear it over wind etc.

Hi guys, I am getting a ticking sound from the engine or something when I hit the middle of my power band on a tuned 07 LGT Wagon. It is tuned for torque. The sound is like a ticking that you would get with a up pipe leak. I replaced all exhaust gaskets last week so thats not it. The only time I hear this sound is when I am getting on it and the rpms hit the center of the torque curve and sits there. It sounds great idling and revving the engine. I would think if it was a valve it would be there all the time, maybe I'm wrong? Is there a good way to diagnose a ticking sound? I have been chasing a PO244 code for a bit now as well. Which I cannot duplicate when driving so its intermittent. Its so frustrating to log constantly but I guess I have to do it. CNT Catted DP ProTune - Opensource SPT Cat back Oil changed every 3k with Amsoil Otherwise stock Lots of suspension stuff.

If I order a raman caliper should I get Centric? Should I just do both at the same time with new pads?

I will pull the whole thing apart and inspect it. I had pulled the right front caliper as it was sticky and since I have seals I was going to try a repair. Failed. Took it to a local shop and they pressed it all together, regretting not having both calipers with me.

The front left is pushing out way more dust and is a bit locked up. If I was to hit the brakes hard it would lock first before the rest. Basically its not safe in my opinion.

Do you guys think its worth it to have brake calipers rebuilt? It seems like all shops want to avoid this step and replace the caliper with remans. I don't really trust the remanufactured calipers as much. If I did go with remanufactured calipers which ones are best?

Thanks Notorius! I have a ProTune now. So it would just be an updated tune. I need to look at the mods list to make sure I want to go that route anyway. I do have a Downpipe, and TBE, Crawford AOS, and bulletproofed TMIC.

Great point. I have been meaning to do a compression leak down test.

Also no cat in the up pipe on 2007.

140k on the car. I’ve been contemplating upgrading the turbo so this might be the best time for that as well. Hmmm. I need to look into turbos for a DD car and what it takes to do it right.

I have a 2007 LGT wagon. I found that there was a strange ticking type noise coming from under the hood during acceleration. I’ll look on muffler shop traced it to the gasket at the up pipe turbo connection. They’re quoting me $475 to do the replacement gasket. Obviously I need to get this fixed. Since the entire exhaust system must be removed from the car I was thinking about replacing with Grimmspeed metal gaskets, is it worth it? Do you guys think this is the best approach? Is it easier to replace the gasket from the top instead by removing the downpipe and turbo? Also, did replacing the pipe with a Grimmspeed up pipe make sense? Would a exhaust leak like this cause an overboost issue? Thanks in advance!