VespaGTS

I’m in to meet up. I went to a Subaru gathering here several years ago. But it was a handful of high schoolers so I bailed. There are several GTs running around Bend that are modified. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I will check it out tonight. I thought I sealed those up when I did dynamat. But I have been wrong before. The exhaust is an SPT so the tips do not extend past the bumper. I am sure that does not help. Relocating the SPT so the tips pass the bumper I was quoted $300. A Invidia Q300 system is $800. I think checking the vents you are talking about is a great starting point. Vent image for future reference...

Strange isn't it? They make them for older versions and newer but not the 4th Gen? I am wanting to replace the seal due to some exhaust smell in the cabin. Nothing major unless I am really getting on in, more at startup than anything. I have a catted DP and cat from mid back. All gaskets are stainless Grimmspeed from manifold back. Frankly I am stumped as to why I smell anything. I am starting to think there is a leak someplace when the exhaust system is cold. If the fresh air vent is open instead of re-circulating I smell it. All gaskets are stainless Grimmspeed from manifold back. I just need to get a smoke test done when its cold.

I went to order a new liftgate seal for my 07 Legacy GT wagon. It turns out they’re discontinued for some reason? They have them for 1990s Legacy’s but not an 07? Is there an alternative out there? Part number is 63516AG00A Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s great news.

I took off my SPT and tossed it in the trash. Not dissing anyone, I just didn’t want to sell that thing to anyone. It’s cast metal and IAT was up running it, plus MAF issues. Went back to stock with a AEM panel filter and removed the resonator box. Sounds good and performs well. Some mods are not worth it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I replaced all my vacuum lines. It’s a project. Some easily cracked during removal. Also zip tie them in place. I found this image to be helpful when I installed my EBCS. At least to figure out where they are. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would contract them anyway. I don’t know the bumper beam layout in a 3rd gen but I would think it’s not far off. Also these are batch made, it’s not some huge shop. I bet they have one that works or could make one easy. Their roof racks look super clean was well.

I believe they are Hella bulbs. The most important thing to change is the connection between the bulb and the harness for the car. 100W bulbs run hotter and you want a connector that can handle the heat. This is what I used. iJDMTOY 9005 9145 HB3 H10 Heavy Duty Ceramic Wiring Harness Sockets Compatible With Headlights or Fog Lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008DM8MUW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_vQdbSzC9BMYtH Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

One thing to keep in mind if you do this is that a 30A relay and fuse is not quite enough. I have installed 100W high beams and with the 4 x 55W = 220W. So 320W/12V = 26.6A so it’s cutting it real close when I hit the high beams. I will add a 50A relay and 30A fuse and see how that goes. I have been popping 20A fuses. I am wondering if I go bigger with 100W bulbs in the Hella 500’s that puts me at 600W. So 600W/12 = 50A. I might have to go bigger on the relay and fuse. Any tips are appreciated if you have done this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to harness: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/jdm-usdm-headlight-harness-bl-bp-283236.html?t=283236&highlight=jdm+headlight+wiring

At the headlight wires near the bulb. I have added better wiring to handle the 100W high beams so it will not melt. So that made it a bit easier.

Hi Joe, I want to be there when you wire this up. I have JDM headlights already and did the cutoff flip. That part was easy, kinda. The wiring can be had from one of the members here on LGT and was worth it. Plug and play was simple. I want to add the switch as well. If you get a lead on another source let me know.

So, it worked. Black Magic lights are a little underwhelming during daytime. Let’s see what night looks like later. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I actually started another post about the wiring. I don’t have them working yet but I hope to soon. Ideally, I would like them to come on via switch when parking lights are on, but also be triggered when high beams come on. I’m not sure if that’s possible? For now I just want them to trigger with high beams so they are useable when driving Mountian passes during winter. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

From SSD Performance. https://ssdsubaru.blogspot.com/?m=1 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi guys, I’m getting ready to wire up my Hella black magic lights. I want them to come on when I hit the high beams. I haven’t decided if I should put a switch in the dash or not. This is what I came up with for a wiring schematic. Does this look good to you or am I going to make something blow up? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If it’s lowered add a Whiteline Roll Center kit. It fixes the suspension angles and greatly improved the ride of the car. Cylinder 4 cooling mod from Getadomtune.com is essential to spread out the heat and cool cylinder 4 so it lasts longer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am planning on aiming them correctly and hooking them to high beams with a switch as well. Living in the mountains/desert it’s nice to have light at night. The SSD bar is solid like a tank. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Make sure you get a compression and leak down test. Smoke test too. Vacuum leaks happen and may not trigger anything in the CEL world for a while. Plus everything that Subsandwich said above. Do longevity mods first, then make a pile of mods to go on it, then add them and tune. Its amazing how a tune helps even a stock Subaru. They run lean as you probably already know. Cylinder 4 cooling mod is a must and its a cheap add on. Get the one from GETADOMTUNE. com

Dude, you can have my engine cover. Don't cut up a new one. I'm local in Bend.

3rd gear under load makes the most vibration. Since the rpm is low in that gear it’s loaded pretty good. I’ll check motor mounts and keep the revs up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks, I will go for a drive and test the theory.

I did them 2 years ago. I will check torque specs. Thanks!

Hi guys, this is a strange one for me. Like the title says, vibration at 2000-2200 rpm only, under load, gets worse when suspension is compressed. I replaced the LCA and its still there, no worse or better? It's not making the sound at any other time? I feel it like its in the drivers foot well as a rumbling vibration. I tried the turn left and right at full lock to check wheel bearings but its silent. A shop will be installing a Whiteline Roll Center kit on the 11th. Any ideas before I have them go looking @ $125hr?