nevets27

Number one. Looks a bit like the facelift front which I'm partial to.

The front bushing of the rear lower control arm is not a solid piece and the two parts and rub against each other and squeak. Brutal discription but you'll understand if looking at them. Took me a while the figure that one out. Just spray some oil/grease in there and see if it goes away. 5 minute job.

Wagon springs in the rear might be an idea. Not sure if they will fit on the stock sedan shock. As I thought I read they are a bit taller/longer. I'm sure someone here knows.

Using the home link button is an interesting idea. And I might look into myself but I think it's extremely unlikely anything can be done. I don't think anything regarding homelink is exposed outside the mirror. The mirror basically just gets 12v and that's it. But I would look up the wiring diagram to confirm that. I'm in a similar situation, with car being in a garage. I went the route of using a device connected to the house wifi. Basically it's a smart switch which can be controlled via the phone app or via Google home. So I can just ask google to open my garage door. Of course you need the WiFi to reach the garage but there are ways to make that happen. I used a power line adapter to send the signal over a power wire to the garage. If this is something that you might be interested in I can elaborate. Or maybe you could setup an arduino with a carbon monoxide sensor so it would open the door automatically.

A few things have finally got done over the past little while. Still have a few more things to come, which hopefully will get done in the next few months. Anyhow, installed parts/mods: -Spec b rims with brand new Firestone indy 500's -Alla lighting "1300lm" LED front turn signals -diode dynamics smart tap flasher relay -Auxito "2000lm" LED reverse lights -Custom LED third/high mount brake light using 6 LED "emergency" lights. Used a generic one off AliExpress but here's an amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/Emergency-Interior-Windshield-Universal-Waterproof/dp/B06WGMWV5P More info about the lighting can be found in my hidplanet thread here: https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/forum/showoff/projector-retrofits/1460346-2009-subaru-legacy-hid-retrofit/page7 I know spec b wheels aren't anything special on here but when I started looking at pictures of this generation of legacy before buying it I saw some pictures with these wheels and wondered why I liked some pictures more then other. I realized it was the wheels what were different between some of the pictures I saw so I wanted my car to match what I had seen in the pictures. And it must have been some sort of sign because a set of spec b rims came up for sale locally soon after I purchased the car. Visually it's getting closer to what I want. Still holding out for a stanza/r-rev truck lip. And I have those es premiums to go on hopefully. Likely will swap to a different grill at some point also. But that's about it for now. Maybe a JDM front end might happen in the very distant future. Short term todo list: -Backup cam -Finish up trunk unlatch button -Rear diff poly inserts -JDM 19mm sway bar -Sway bar reinforcements -Es premium mufflers -Hood struts -LED under hood work lighting. Mini review on the smart tap. Pros: -Makes LEDs flash correctly (though a $10 relay could do that) -Single tap gets you multiple flashes and how many can be programed -Neat strobe and other hazards flash patterns. Cons: -No cancel after tap. It will continue until it completes the amount of flashes programed. So you can't decide you don't want to turn anymore and tap the other direction to turn it off. Which I do get why that might be hard to do from a technological perspective. -Turn signal "chime" isn't as nice as factory. Not that the factory one was spectacular but it had a nice sound not obnoxious but pleasant. The diode dynamics sounds a bit tinny and cheap, reminds me of my 80s car. And it's a bit quieter. -Looses it's programed settings after a power loss so you have to go and change all the settings from default. Less of a problem of you like the default settings but personally all my settings aren't the default so it's a pain though shouldn't have to done often. Dead batteries do happen and so does work on the car that requires the battery to be disconnected. -Does weird things. Like if you turn off the car with the turn signal flashing (arm down or up) it will continue to flash until centered. Pretty sure that doesn't happen from factory. There are couple other little quirky things that I can't remember. The cons bug me, some more then others but the single tap for multiple flashes is a nice enough feature to live with them. And I've only driven the car for a day.

For completeness the 3.0R in Canada comes with the smaller 2.5i brakes. Rather then the GT brakes. The 3.0R Limited in the USA comes with the larger GT brakes. While the 3.0R base in the USA comes with the 2.5i brakes (I think).

If you want a bigger front bar the Tribeca bar is supposed to fit the NA/3.0 sub frame

You mention 3.0 and posted in the 4th gen section. That listing only mentions 3.6. I have no idea if 3.6 headers work for 3.0. Just something to check.

Anyone have a link to a working usb video capture device? I got this one with the STK1160 chip and it didn't work. I got the drivers loaded (by following the guide here) and it looked like it connected but just got a black screen, this is on vcam2. I had bought a UVC, which if it truly is a UVC should plug in and work without the need of drivers. The listing is gone but here was the title "No-Driver UVC USB 2.0 Video Audio Capture Card Adapter RCA Composite USB Cable" But it's taking forever to get here though so I'm not sure if I will get it at all. Last option is the UTV007. Thinking about getting one of these. But it's an easycap which should work but will definitely need the drivers or have to use the easycap viewer app. But if someone has a link to one known to work with vcam2, preferably one that's truly UVC, that would save me some headache. Also looking or a backup camera. This one looks good but a bit pricey compared to others. Anyone have a link to one they liked? I do only want that style though. Side note, when research this stuff I came across this russian site Lots of info there. And a guy who makes a pretty interesting power supply/distributor

If that's true then I would look at the brace on the top of the transmission to the firewall (in other places people call it a dog bone, I think it is referred to it differently here). And take a look at the motor and transmission mounts.

Only thing I could say is check the passenger side control arm bushings and ball joint as its likely on its way out too. And sway bar bushings (not end links).

Glad you got it working it's a much more pleasant experience when it does. Really annoying when it doesn't.

Fyi, you got the unchecking of the RTC alarms right. But for the kill apps you should be checking them to be killed. It's a bit counter intuitive but the title for each description tells you this, it is a bit confusing.

I also had a hell of a time getting my nexus to charge. It would slowly drain while driving with nav and Spotify on. Verified the adapter had enough amperage so that wasn't the problem. And it wouldn't likely be the problem for most also as long as you have a 2amp power supply. The problem is voltage. The nexus is super picky about voltage. I found some info on I think rootwiki or something, sorry on mobile and don't have the link. The way the nexus works (which is normal for most mobile devices) is the nexus will draw as much amps as it wants/needs but if the voltage drops too low it decides the wires or adapter isn't good enough to supply the amps it wants so it decides to pull less amps. Example being say it wants 1amp but when pulling 1 amp th voltage drops to 4.8v. It doesn't like that so it will change its mind and pull only 0.5 amp. Also you can't believe what it's says in the power manager app. I've used a inline voltage measuring device to show the true amps/volts. I got one of these, really useful to checking wires, power adapters, power banks/battery packs etc. https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Multimeter-Chargers-Capacity-Banks-Black/dp/B07FVHGKGF/ref=asc_df_B07FVHGKGF/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309763068717&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17702489290500458991&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1021222&hvtargid=pla-575523717515&psc=1 The main reason for the voltage drop is small gauge wire which causes resistance. Secondly is a poor adapter/power supply that drops voltage when more amps are being pulled. Last is a poor usb connection can cause a bit or resistant also. To solve the problem you could get an otg host with higher gauge wire if you can verify this. Build your own with higher gauge wire. And finally get a power supply (DC to DC adapter) with a voltage adjustment. This way you can set the voltage a bit higher so when it gets to the nexus it's still high, say like 5.2v, that way it will pull as much amps as it needs because it believes the wires/power supply is good. I did both a large gauge wire diy otg host cable and a voltage adjustable power supply. Now I can charge no matter how much load I put on the nexus (nav and Spotify running at the same time) Now for the sleep issue I also had that issue. First go into the power manager and go to kill apps and just check off everything. Then go to rtc alarms and uncheck everything. Reboot. Now see how that works for you. If you get no ill effects then call it a day. I had the same if not worse drain as you. But after doing that and with the stock launcher I can go 12hrs with only 0.01% battery loss. How long the screen is off and in deep sleep is also in power manager. Now the btssm might also get solved doing the above. Before doing the above I used tasker to kill btssm when going to sleep. I noticed that if I didn't kill it it would have trouble reconnecting (even when directly connected or via Bluetooth). After having it being killed its reconnects fine.

There is also aftermarket rubber replacements that don't have the voids that the oem ones have. No idea of they are stronger but they seem to be as the control arm can't move around as much because there is no voids. Might be better long term also as the might not rip as easily as the oem, again because of no voids. That's what I'm using as in this case the rubber might out last the polyurethane. Poly doesn't like to be twisted like it does in this location. It's much better in standard type bushing locations which is basically all of the other bushings.

Pretty sure this isn't true the GT, the spec b and the 3.0R Limited all have the same brakes in USDM. The base 2 5i has smaller front rotors and none vented but same size rotors in the rear. The 3.0R in Canada got the same brakes as the 2.5i. To answer the OP, upgrading the front rotors and calipers to the GT version will give you bigger/better front brakes. This is what I will likely do in the future. I'm not going to bother doing the rears in the short term due to it not really having any effect on better braking. You really only need vented to cool the brakes quicker and unless you are driving it hard with lot of braking/track days etc. Then you won't heat up the rears enough to need vented. The rest in the rear is equal so it won't gain anything in the rear for better braking.

Just remember you can use the vagcom cable with an otg adapter with the stock kernel but you won't be able to charge it at the same time so it will be on battery power the whole time. If you want to plug in power and use the USB via otg you will need a custom kernel (timur being the popular one) which enables host mode. You will also need a cable meant to be used in host mode. Which is simply a y cable that splits out the power to one connector and the data to another, which you would plug your vagcom cable into. If you connect via Bluetooth then you can just use the USB port to charge.

Well seeing that your tape dispenser is carbon fiber I'm a little surprised that the clock on the wall isn't also.... I can only image how much stuff around your house just happens to be carbon fiber....

Gain access to a dumb expensive diagnostic tool. I was able to borrow a matco maximus 2.0 for a few minutes. I would expect it to be changeable at the dealership also, but I didn't see it listed as an option in the service manual. Unfortunately I didn't get much time to play with the matco maximus 2.0, as there was a bunch of settings, not all of them did anything. I'm about 99% sure this worked though, I did have my car wired to already unlock all doors but I did do something to check if it changed when turning this on or off, just can't remember what that was.

Those wheels look familiar. Hyundai/KIA/Honda... Interior looks nice.

Not involved with engine building for cars but I have built some engines and I have a machining background. While I'm sure the pining is something that is generally done, it does seem a bit weird to me. Thankfully you are using aluminum pins in an aluminum block. My main concern is the lack of them doing much of anything due to expanding less or at a different rate then the cylinder/block. Due to that I would expect these to need to have a inference/press fit. With the pins needing to be chilled to be installed. I'm more just curious how this is actually supposed to work. It looks to be an easy good way to add some strength and no real harm if it doesn't do what it's supposed to. And the slight differences in the alloy between to block and the pins isn't likely enough to cause an issue but it's just something I was wondering if it had been thought about. Of course if they are being welded in, there isn't anything to worry about.

Did the JDM/EDM have a wider rear to match the wider front? Or does it look fine with just the wider front. No that it would discourage me anyway.

BTW this can actually be changed in the BIU. Was able to use a high end diagnostic tool for a few minutes once and there was a option to disable priority drivers door unlock.

Stock location is top right/passenger side of the windshield. At least I'm pretty sure that's what that thing is there.

Everything sounds right to me. Just to confirm I guess. (IG) Pin 8 - Green/Black ->anode---cathode -> Red wire on Dork DC-DC (ACC) Pin 9 - Yellow/Red ->anode---cathode -> Red wire on Dork DC-DC Ground--------------------------------------------> Black wire on Dork DC-DC 5v out to USB Yellow wire on Dork DC-DC Black wire on Dork DC-DC I know most of that was pretty redundant but I don't see where anything is wrong. Try without the 12v to 5v adapter?