nevets27

Picked these up last week, wasn't really in my plans but I did say to myself if these exact mufflers came up for a good price locally that I would have to buy them. From what I could find, these are supposed to go well with the 3.0. They need a good clean and polish before they go on. Now I just need to figure out how these are supposed mate up to the stock flanges. They look like they should bolt up fine from a bit of measuring I did of the bolt spacing and from a picture I saw where they were mounted to the stock y-pipe. Even though the stock y-pipe OD is 1.615 inches and the ID of the HKS muffler is 2.400 inches. So there won't be much flange to seal on. So everything appears to be easy other then the issue of my flanges being rusted. The y-pipe looks fine, but the flanges aren't all there, they are sealing fine currently with the stock mufflers but I'm not sure what situation I'm going to be in after I remove them. Welding in new flanges would be a bit of a pain, mild steel flanges are pretty cheap but they will probably rust out again. Stainless steel flanges are dumb expensive. I guess we will see.

FYI, this is a pretty nice launcher for use in a car install. FCC Car Launcher

Ah width, that's it. Had not seen the comparison from that angle, thanks. Give this a shot for hazing. Pitting is a bit harder. Not sure on that yet. I'm going to try some film. Other then that you're basically stuck with sanding and 2k clear coat. Too bad the lenses are slightly different, could have swapped the lense over otherwise.

True. Definitely like the JDM better as far as the grill and being tucked tighter to the car. But I do prefer the USDM fog light area/lower opening. Which I have seen in a JDM version. But it is a lot to basically just remove the buldge as the grills can be made to fit. Personally I really want the functionality of these headlights. 1) as soon as it gets wet during the winter the headlights get caked with salt and have a huge impact on the light output and how much the light scatters, into other drives eyes (not that most OEM's care about that here) 2) depending on the load in the car or any other reason I can make minor adjustments to the beam height to make sure the light is getting down the road and not blinding drivers. The short of it is, washers (in climates that warrent it) and the adjustable height of the HIDs are really functional features and these lights offer those features. Mating them up to a usdm bumper would allow for really nice headlight setup here.

.... I had a one of these in may hand a few days ago. I would been all for buying it and setting it all up correctly but I'm not prepared to spend the money for the whole front end swap at the moment. Holding them up to the USDM lights, they sure look very close to the same shape...

All I can say is I have some and I have used it just not the same way most of you would intend to use it (ez30). I have it on my cats to protect the cv boots. Pics in my "build" thread. Sent from my LG-US998 using Tapatalk

Soild or hollow. Bigger or smaller is only part of the picture. Materials and design are also a factor. Sent from my LG-US998 using Tapatalk

A steel bar (solid) the same size as a tube will definitely be stronger. Less material does not make something stronger. Realistically you would never make suspension links out of a solid bar due to the fact that it does need to have a minimum diameter to make it ridged enough. A solid thin rod is very flexible. By the time you got to a big enough diameter if you were to use a solid bar it would weight a ton. So the right diameter followed by the correct wall thickness of a tub is the better way to do it, which is why it's what you see all the time. Therefore a larger tube can be stronger then a smaller solid bar. Sent from my LG-US998 using Tapatalk

I had found those but I think they require drilling? I rather not drill anything and like how the DIY mounts to the hood hinge and existing threads of the fender. And with the DIY I can source my struts else where. (Those would cost close to $200 by the time I got them here sadly)

Sorry to bump an old thread but I'm looking to DIY some hood struts. Is there any detailed pictures of the brackets? Any idea of the correct part for the ball end the looks to be threaded into the location of where a bolt used to be? Any finally what struts to use. I do see GC8 struts were mentioned, I assume I could look up the part number by looking at hatch support struts? The ones Dead Mr. used look a little long (holding the hood up a bit too far) which might make reaching the hood a bit more annoying rather then the stock height.

Should be pretty self explanatory, the wire going onto the blade connector goes to my alarm, it's simply a ground when the hood is open and an open circuit with the hood closed. Typically you use a star washer (the one with sharp edges) to cut through the paint to get to bare metal to get a good ground. In my case I didn't want to mess up the paint (even though it wouldn't be visible) as it would just start to rust. So I put a ring terminal under the nut and ran that to the ground point behind the fuse/relay box. Upload images to this site blows, ugh Going up on imgur then.... Sorry for going off topic.... (If anyone has a link to DIY hood strut install, opening my hood reminded me I want to do that)

They don't come stock with one, you would need to add it in but its simple. This is a hood pin. There are a couple existing holes on the fender you could use to mount it so no drilling. Just hook up the lights ground to the bottom of the pin (the blade connection) and when you open the hood it will ground and turn on you light. I did it for my alarm, but might add a light now that you mention it. Can snap a pic if you need a better idea.

Yeah still need 12v to 5v. I was referring to how to feed power into anything you want to stay on during cranking. If you take a ACC line and an IGN line and put a diode on both (in the right direction) then tie those together, and run that to the 12v of the 12v to 5v converter. Here you go, there's a link to a picture in there: You could also just wire it up to a hood pin so hood open = on, closed = off.

Alternatively you can tie the ACC and IGN together with some diodes and therefore the tablet has power during cranking also. This is how I have mine wired. As far as I've read Obd2 splitters don't work. Though I would love to be wrong. They work for devices that just use the Obd2 for power, like those insurance things. But if both devices want to talk to the ECM they both can't be on at the same time. If you want to split it so you can leave the vagcom cable plugged in and still have a port free, the only way I can see that working is if you wired a switch to kill the power to vagcom so that when you use the other device they won't conflict. Sent from my LG-US998 using Tapatalk

My guess would be the euro spec center console (shifter, cup holders) Sent from my LG-US998 using Tapatalk

Can I assume b@tman, that this is the best place to follow the progress of the 08+ vb mod? https://forums.drom.ru/subaru/t1151851873-p52.html So this mod increases the fluid flow and therefore makes the shifts quicker but doesn't change line pressure or make the shifts more firm, correct?

Patched my ROM for CAN extended parameters and flashed it to my ECU. Now I can log at a lost faster speeds, which will help with tuning, that will happen at some point. If anyone with the same ECU wants to patch their ROM, here's the needed info. My Car/ECU You will need a tactrix 2.0 cable and ecuflash to dump(read) and flash(write) the ROM. The program was made by DimeSPb, his website with the program is here: https://vk.com/ecuresearch (The site is in russian, just use translate in chrome) Go to group menu then to firmware patcher. The program is in english and straightforward, here are the instructions solidxsnake gave me: I was a bit curious about where this file/guy came from so here he is in the RR forum All credit goes to solidxsnake for the info and links. And the credit for the program goes to DimeSPb. The car is now getting prepped for winter. Tires, removed lip and lots of rust check oil. I should probably post some info on rust prevention in the rear fender and dogleg area. I'll see if I can get around to that. After getting the maintenance stuff out the way I hope to get to a few mods.

Fyi, being 3100k they will be yellow. Sent from my LG-US998 using Tapatalk

Still slow progress on various additions that will be made. The current projects are: Trunk release button on handle/lip. Nav/bluetooth/backup cam etc. I did get the lip installed. Love it. I drilled the holes a bit bigger and used the same oem type of push pins used to hold the fender/bumper on. Fits really well. Anyhow some pics as she sitting now And installed some LEDs. I'm one of the few that actually prefer the more yellow light of incandescent bulbs. And also don't want too much light in the cabin. So only replaced the lights in the doors and trunk as that light was very much lacking. Door light. This is the easy way that doesn't involve any destructive mods and works well. I just used some mounting putty/tac. It shines a bit more up and into your eyes then I would like and obviously not centered but thats me being really picky. I may cut the contacts for the bulb off so I can mount the panel in the middle facing down. I had a before and after picture of the lights but I can't find it now. Used this for the trunk "Warm White Car 48 SMD 5630 LED panel Light Dome Bulb T10 Festoon Spring 12V" And this for the door "Warm White Car 12 SMD 5630 LED panel Light Dome Bulb T10 Festoon Spring 12V"

I have a CAD program.... I can post a pic if you like. I'll need the file though

FYI the D2S's really do well with a shield drop. And many like to make the step less dramatic. The G5-R is has a bit better output due to a different shield. It is pretty much the same as a D2S with a shield drop. No first hand experience with the G5-R. I have modded the D2S. And depending on personal preference a foreground limiter is also a good idea.

Well damn. I spent a ton of time designing my own brackets. Where were these a few months ago? Assuming that they fit a post facelift usdm headlight, which the brackets I made do. If post and pre facelift are the same this could have saved me many many hours. Guess it doesn't matter now. I didn't know anyone had retrofited D2S's. I guess it's not so unique now. Happy with the output though. I guess its at least nice to know there is brackets that allow the D2S's to fit into jdm post facelift headlights. Which I'm interested in moving to eventually. Should have probably went to straight to them but still learning. Would like to see a picture of those LEDs in the post facelift used for drl.

That sounds familiar. The seller I got it from didn't mention it had a messed up port. So I had to replace it and when trying to take the old one off i pulled two of the pads off. Should have known better. Had to run some solid wire from a couple solder points close to the port. Pain in the ass but got it working. I had the same thought and was going to hard wire everything to the the pcb and run the wires out the back to a board with power, usb host etc. Like you're doing. But I'm thinking longer term I might end up with something other then the nexus so I rather not "destroy" it. The nexus is already pretty old and a bit slow. Not sure what to replace it with though yet. Going to use the nexus as a starting point though. Glad to know I'm not the only crazy one. I was looking to do something similar. I just want something to keep a few bottles of water cold. More info!

BTW the no battery thing kind of got started by Kevdav100. So it's been done. And many followed after that. I don't know how good/nice his mod is but just pointing out that the people less concerned "just did it" And yea I'm with utc_pyro right now, the car sits sometimes and this isn't the only additonal power draw accessory thats been added. So the least amount of draw will help prevent a dead battery and honestly car batteries don't like deep charge cycles either. BTW I would like to hear what ends up being that quality PSU we are speaking about. I found that hard to find. I mean quality and reasonably priced. The cheap ones are dirt cheap. Also I'm not sure if it's just my tablet/12v-5v adapter or what but when looking in PEM, with GPS and music streaming I'm not chargein I'm actually loosing power slowly. So I'm not sure how that would would with the no battery mod. If using a lower current PSU for the battery and a more powerful PSU for the "charging" would the tablet be ok with trying to draw more power through the battery then the usb. I have tested the adapter and cable and it's capable of far more current then the nexus is asking for.

The super cap is a nice idea, no one mentioned using one in any of the documentation/guides I saw. The traninats is exactly what I worried about with powering the nexus directly off a dc PSU rather then a battery. Though it that didn't seem to bother some who have done it. Still bothers me though. I spent so much time trying to find decent quality, reasonable sized and efficient dc-dc it drive me nuts to the point I haven't bothered buying one which has slowed my build progress a bit. I was interested in finding one with low noise but I only know enough about electronics to get into trouble so I know switching Hz was important but so was something else I can't remember off the top of my head. I was reading specs sheets for the chips. Which was the other half of the battle, figuring out what chips are being use and the common ones etc. This is all ebay based of course. I do know if you go isolated that the efficiency is definitely lower I this generally mid 80%. Non isolated, switching generally is around 95%. But changes a bit on how close you are to what the chip was designed for. So if you get a 5a psu (real 5a not made up China spec'd higher then it really is) and only draw 2a it looses its efficiency. So it's a compromise as you'll want likely something with at least 2a output as its likely the tablet can draw that much or close to it. You also don't want the PSU to be running at its limit so 3 or 4amp seems about right. Except when the tablet is sleeping, it will be then using much less and likely not at the most efficient rate of the psu. Also could use a voltage regulator type of dc-dc psu, no noise but also inefficient. Maybe I'm over analyzing it but well, that's what I do. I could post what info I found on available psu's, on ebay, if anyone is interested. It's just research I did. I had planned on running 1 5v psu for all my 5v stuff but I think I decided against that. My main worry was introducing noise into the audio and or just dirty power to all the 5v electronics and therefore was at first looking at a high quality isolated psu and only really wanted one but with enough power to power everything which became a challenge and had some cons. Likely overly paranoid so a more realistic aproved is probably a few smaller PSU's. Oh yeah and btw, as far as I know android determines how full the battery is based off voltage. I don't even think it knows the true capacity so I doubt it will care about it being 100mah. In our case we need the voltage to be bellow what a 100% battery would be or it won't request power from the usb charger and therefore won't turn on when power is applied (car is started). So we need to make the tablet think the battery is at like 80% all of the time so that it wants to charge. I assume you knew that anyway as you said you want to set it at 4.2v, which sounds right. This is all just what I've read, no first hand experience thus far.