nevets27

I kind of get the fascination of trying to build a track car that's a comfortable/ reliable daily. But it doesn't realistically make sense, there's a reason they don't really exist. And if they do you are better off spending 6 figures on something that was designed to do so. Though its more likely you'll have a faster track car and a good daily driver, if you have a dedicated car for each task. Depending on the track of course but hp is usually the least of your issues. Pretty much everything else but the engine will make you go faster/have better lap times. I remember one track day I went to. There was a Toyota Yaris that beat everyone on lap times. Faster than a bmw M5, trailered track cars etc. No idea what he had done to it but if I had to guess, all his money went into suspension if anything at all. I do know he had slick tires. Point being is he could corner at speeds almost twice what the M5 could due to size/weight and grip.

That should be the clue. BTW, they are supposed to be replaced. If they are replaced before they are ineffective then they it will continue to protect the tank itself and the tank will continue to be fine far past 15yrs. But as with most things people don't ever replace it and therefore the tank will start to rust. Point being, if in this closed system without oxygen being introduced the tank will rust unless there is a sacrificial anode. Sound familiar?

Pretty obvious why it took that long to find links that agree with him..... Even the vast internet was hard to find evidence to try to prove a wrong point. I'm actually a bit surprised, usually you can find lots of people agreeing with someone that's wrong. Curious how people think a hot water tank works... That should give you a clue.

http://www.nissantechnicianinfo.mobi/htmlversions/Winter_2012/Hub-Lug_Centric.html One of various links....

Right, completely forgot your bumper had a different layout.

Couldn't find a great link but grillcraft makes ones. Example: http://www.2040-parts.com/2008-2009-subaru-legacy-grillcraft-lower-1pc-black-grille-mx-series-grill-i537613/ So jealous of the euro spec. So beautiful, plus you have the option of the 6mt/spec b for the 3.0R. Would love to get my hands on one. And you got the colour I wanted and is rare here for the 3.0R. Nice to see another 3.0R in here. If you have the means to import one, from the looks of what was available out there, they are much nicer. HID headlights with washers, push button start (not sure which models but I've see a 4th gen with it), I think backup sensors, nicer front end with honeycomb grill (and many other choices) and nicer center console... And the 3.0R spec b.

Taking a wild guess here but I don't think the data you are looking for exists out in the world. (Analysis of both liquids) It would take someone interested enough to do some tests. You seem to fit that bill. So why not purchase both and find out? If this is to decide if you should use it in your vehicles then the result from the test would hopefully be worth it, so you can make a sound decision on what you think this best for you.

Coolant issue must be a location thing. Watching the latest supergramps video where they took it too the track, yes it got hot but it's by no means a typical 3.0R and it was being tracked, on the stock cooling. I was a bit shocked how well it looked to hold up.

I see that making some sense as it takes a bit more paying attention to drive a manual. Though I wish the opposite was true here. If everyone was somehow forced to drive manuals first they maybe they would learn to not use the gas and brake as on/off switches, of course that would never happen. Personally, a 3.0R with a 6mt would be a dream to drive, a dream since I'll likely never drive one. The auto definitely hurts the enjoyment of that engine.

Not sure what you would be gaining in running straight water.... That would reduce the boiling point. As for surviving the derby, from everyone I've ever watched is, once your rad gets punctured the end is near. So depending on what's you are allowed to do, do everything you can to protect it before hand and during.

Case closed then. Everyone knows the shape of the container dictates what's inside. I'm sure most people have seen that so little chance this is news to anyone.

Pairing different springs will definitely effect the feel of the shocks. Best back to back I've had was driving another persons legacy with bilsteins and STI pinks from what I recall, don't recall what revision though. Anyhow, it was a firmer ride not harsh. It was enjoyable (relatively short ride on good roads though). Now one place I could feels a difference was leaving/entering a parking lot. In my car with stock springs and koni's it when driving over the transition it didn't throw you around the car as much. It kind of glided over the transition while the bilsteins followed it. Bad description but it's hard to explain. Though I feel it's more a factor of the springs. My take away between the two. Koni with stock springs give the legacy a sportier but comfortable rides, kind of sport luxury. The bilsteins with STI pinks are more sportier, hugs the road, at home being driven spirited with a bit less comfort/luxury feel. *my koni are set relatively soft. 1 1/2 - 2 turns from full soft I think off the top of my head.

I assume you've seen a lot of blown up engines in general over 13 years. It begs the question, how many haven't had the conditioner (that you know of) but still blew up? This is why I don't get the "subaru did this to protect themselves from warranty claims" argument. If it was to stop warranty claims it wouldn't have any effect if the coolant was changed per the service schedule which is well after the warranty had expired. Why would they even care if you used it when you finally did your coolant change at 137,500 miles, if it was just a stop leak for head gaskets? If it truly is a conditioner, then it's likely something that came in the system from the factory. Which means it's not being "added" later it was always in there. Or, like the documentation says, (example) they realized there was a corrosion problem that would be an issue when the coolant system was getting older (at 137,000 miles) and now requires some additives for more corrosion protection. The manual actual mentions after the first 11 years or 137,500 miles that the coolant should be changed on a 6 year 75,000 mile interval for the rest of the life of the vehicle. I'm contrast I have seen the WWP-99 service campaign but that was up to 2002. Though it does basically say that the subaru coolant conditioner is a stop leak. I'm not aware of a service campaign/TSB/recall for 2002 or newer vehicles, does one exist? It all seems a bit odd to me. If in 2002 they wanted it in all engines past, present and in the future, wouldn't they haven been adding it at the factory at that time? If not then the first time it gets introduced into the engine is 77,500 miles after the warranty has ended? Logic/speculation can go on forever. I'm a bit surprised no one has actually tested it yet. Only real way to know.

I find the flat 4/6 subaru engines are easy to work on. Personally I think easier then inline 4, but of course depends what you are doing. Though a hell of a lot easier then a v6. Things that are easy to get to: starter and alternator, things that will likely need replacement eventually. Can do both of those jobs without removing anything other then what you need to remove for the most part (though the intercooler will probably be in the way for the turbo engines). Spark plugs are actually easy despite being inline with the frame rail. Of course they are easier on an inline 4 but it's not hard on the subaru. H6 is nice, no turbo to worry about. Less stuff to have to work around in the engine bay. The only "issues" I've read was water pump may need replacement at some point and that's a big job. I think I read the timing chain tentioners can loosen off a bit and you'll hear noise from the chain which will give let you know it needs some attention. Both are the only thing I read could happen but weren't "common" And the idler pulley bearing may wear out prematurely, but that's like a $5/5min fix. Stock for stock they are pretty identical for power. The 2.5 has more grunt at lower rpm and runs out of steam higher in the rpm range. While the 3.0 is basically the opposite (this is based on the 4th gen). At least this has been my experience driving them back to back As for the transmission, not the greatest no. But the 5eat is decent. Treat it well and you should be fine. It does benefit from some "tuning". Wait.... Forgot you're in Japan.... I think they have the 3.0R with the 6mt (manual trans) there. If so that's a beautiful combination we don't get in North America.

Other side of the problem. Saw a suitable donor vehicle which was new to a local lot. It was in the lost for less then 24hrs and they were gone. Hard to beat people that go to the yard basically daily (while people are usually at work) and grab anything they know they can flip for a profit.

As others have mentioned we don't have some of those models in North America. I had originally looked at the GT but I wanted a reliable daily I didn't have to worry about which lead me to the 3.0R. From all the research I've done it's one of the most reliable subaru engines. Since the 3.6 is very similar I would think the reliability is similar. At 35k miles, it's barely broken it in. Mods are virtually nonexistent, but if all you want to do is exhaust, that is one of the only and best mods for the 3.0R. It also has a much different sound then the flat 4's, think more like a Porsche. If you have the option (we don't in NA) get it with the 6 speed manual. It is more reliable then an automatic and I'm sure would make it more fun to drive. The 5eat does harm the enjoyment of the 3.0R a bit. Depending on your situation though an auto is nice for commuting.

+1 agree. And they are adjustable.

Nope, different size.

It should be pretty easy to actually test if the two product are in fact the exact same. Do a specific gravity test and look at them through a refractometer. By no means a definitive test. If in both tests they show different results then its definitely not just a re-labeled product. Now that doesn't necessarily mean it doesn't serve the same purpose so it's not really proof of anything per say but it's closer to a real test vs anecdotal evidence. If heat + air makes it gum up then maybe you could just boil it and see what it does. If it's not stop leak I would assume it shouldn't change. The part I find a bit weird is why would subaru suggest it in all engines across so many years when the head gasket issue was pretty much isolated to the 2.5NA's? Seems a bit unnecessary and if it causes such issues for the coolant systems then subaru would have just been screwing up perfectly good engines that didn't need it in the first place. Then again car manufacturers do weird blanket stuff think that so I wouldn't be shocked they suggested/did something stupid. Would be interesting to know how many cars out there are running with it. Assuming if all mechanics followed Subaru's recommendations, it would be the majority of Subaru's on the road. Of course that's unlikely the case. Possibly all dealership may have always used it though, that would be a reasonable portion of cars on the road. I don't see it brought up here but it's possible it could be water pump lubricant. That's definitely a thing and it is an additive. Would it be necessary or not that another story but it should have no ill effects on the coolant system. Or it could just be exactly what everyone thinks and it is in fact radweld.

I haven't done it, but remember seeing the pins while doing another project. I would suspect it's easier to swap the pins on the connector going into the TCU. I've been meaning to do this and would document it of course. Only other part is depending on how confident you are about de-pining. Some are easier then others and it does get easier with the right tools (even cheap ebay tools help) some experience.

As for you confirmation question, yes you have that correct. Zener diode I don't think will work. It was an idea that came up but in practice I couldn't see it working. But who knows. Not quite sure what you have going on electrically. All seems a bit odd to me. It should simply be: lights off = drl on = low voltage to high beam. Lights on = drl off = no voltage to high beam. And obviously voltage to the low beams. High beams on = voltage to low beam and high beam.

Can't get you a direct link right now but, take a look at my build thread. There's a link to hidplanet. I think I explained on there what I did as for wiring. There's a relatively simple solution with a relay. Put simply, you'll use a relay to only allow power to the high beam of the led projector when the low beam is on. So when the headlights are off no power (the low voltage DRL power go in to the high beam) can flow to the projector. When the headlights are on (low beam have power) allow power to flow to the high beam of the projector. Since when he headlights are on the drl low voltage is off you won't have any issues. This is how I wired mine. Works great. Though if you just want to go the disabling drl route. Sounds like you are still getting low voltage power at the headlights, which is drl. Maybe confirm you have no voltage at all on the headlight plug with headlights off.

Weird. One southern Ontario winter and my element3 rotors rusted where the coating on the hats was.

I would say it would likely have to also be put on the outer skin to reduce the "drum effect". Of course this it's likely quite hard to install but I get the feeling that's where manufactures have sound dreading. Don't want that outer skin vibrating or transferring the noise into the cabin. I think the sound dreading on the inner door is going to be trying to absorb the sound from the outer skin rather then preventing the vibration from happening at all. Which I don't think the sound deading is as good at doing. This is basically an educated guess though.

I don't have a manual. But I did install a remote start system. As far as push button and proximity, not much I can offer for info on that. But as far as a remote start system I can say what I used. While it does work well and works reliably. It does have some quirks and some of the advertised features don't work as expected. This is the main part/brain I used: Compustar FT-DC3-HC Can use different remotes and can add on different sensors. Not sure if you are interested in installing this yourself. Compustar doesn't support end users. You can do it yourself, dealers aren't really supposed to sell just the parts but you can easily find the parts to buy. You will need a programing cable and will need to sign up "as a business" to access the software to program the brain. So it's a bit of a pain in the ass. It is nice that it's just one box, previous systems needed separate bypass modules or blades. This one needs to have the brain programed. I like to do my own work so I did install this myself. They did (do?) have a proximity option/add on but was told it was crap and buggy and not worth even trying. If you want more detail, more then happy to provide more. It does have the option to start the engine by just grounding a wire, but I don't think that will really get you anywhere as you can't drive away without putting the key in. Missed that you were probably aware of this already. Do agree a full system with proximity and push button would be great. Would be interested if something is found like that video. Subscribed.