nevets27

There is also the signature series. Can't recall off hand how long I had run it for before changing but it was definitely not at the suggested millage it was at the time frame, a bit past actually. So far have I only run it once. I took a sample but haven't got it tested yet. Not sure it there is much point due to the cost vs just changing the oil, more curious what the condition of it is compared the when it was new. I would say it's definitely not worry it unless you put a lot of millage on your car. Though I have wondered if changing "cheaper" (say just regular amsoil) more often is just as good as the "best" changing less frequently.

05-07 use the low beam for drl. 08-09 use the high beam for drl. So it's not the same in that senses. Which might be why the OPs isn't working. I haven't disabled mine so no advice there.

Well the lower voltage on the high beam wire is the drl. So you haven't disabled the drl. On my retrofit I took a different approach and didn't disable the drl. But just disabling them would be simpler.

Another option is just two diodes. Pull 12v from both the ACC and hot when running, put a diode on each line, then tie the output of the two diodes together and use that for your 12v. Just make sure the diodes are rated higher the the amperage you'll be pulling. Works well for me.

There is a correct harness for mirrors with homelink. Do not know the part number it off the top of my head though.

I haven't seen a picture like that before. Out of curiosity. Is that the only area there is a fitment issue? If so I might have an idea.

The conclusion everyone here has come to is they don't fit. From what I've read they are wider then the usdm headlights and that's why they don't fit. They can be made to fit, if you use use the jdm bumper and fenders.

I think they are still the same style as jdm in the sense they are wider and therefore need a full front end swap. Though I would love to be wrong.

The wheel button and the selector can effect each other, from what I recall off the top of my head. Realistically it's the liquid in the selector causing resistance. The modes are selected with different resistance. Again off the top of my head. The wiring diagram that explains it is in the service manual. I would disconnect the selector. It should allow the steering wheel button to work if it's is shorted inside the selector. If you can take it a part and clear it that might be the answer or replace. Very unlikely there is a fuse or anything else related wrong.

Actually they didn't and sounds like he ran into the same issue you did.

Looks like the decided a flat blade screw driver was the right tool. Brutal that they couldn't be bothered to use the right tool. And they clearly pried on the side beside the vent which is wrong, there is no clips/tabs there, no need to be prying there. Lack of care or education or both.

So I decided to through some methanol in my fuel tank. 4 Liters into a full tank to be exact. Highest octane around here is 94, which is only available from one fuel company. So I run 91. Anytime I turned on logging I would get a lot of knock alerts so I figured I could use some more octane. But since its not convenient to get my hands anything above 91, I started to think about meth injection. After a bit of googling, seems like running meth on NA, while not that common and not as big of a gain as with forced induction, it can provide some benefits. This comment from Matt was encouraging also http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=17684#p248290 Now I haven't done actual meth injection, yet. It was suggested to me to try with just adding meth to the fuel to see what effect it would have. With the hope it would help with knock. Which it doesn't look like it has. This is the the data I have thus far. Not exact sure what it all means but here it is. Open to taking any info or advice. Hopefully if anyone else is curious this will provide some answers. Knock events before meth https://pastebin.com/g4XH2Efx Knock events after meth https://pastebin.com/Wskm5n5H I have logs too.. First Drive After about an hour drive (70km) on meth, just normal driving Just before adding any meth

If possible I highly suggest removing as many parts your self before bringing it in. If they don't have to remove it then it's hard for them to cause damage in that area. I looked at the service manual to see what was required to be removed to get the passenger airbag out and followed some of it. From what I recall it actually says the entire dash has to be removed. But I know in my case the mechanic just lifted the dash on the passenger side and slid it in. I have the whole procedure recorded. When I went in, I had my cubby removed and everything on the passenger side behind the glove box, including the glove box of course. The only thing he removed was the radio. So you could leave that out also if you wanted. Sorry this doesn't help the OP but for anyone that still has to get it done, hopefully this is helpful advice.

Double and triple check the fuses. Blown fuses can cause some weird stuff to happen and since you've been around the electrical and these are electrical issues.... Take a good hard, multiple look at the fuses.

Turns out I did need new front rotors after all. Sadly, the with annoyance of trying to find gt calipers, I've just stayed with stock brakes for now. Making a bit of progress with the rear fogs. After a bit of experimenting and sourcing of some materials, it looks like I have a plan.

Yeah, definitely an interesting read. Thanks for posting.

The stock tubs won't fit without modification, apparently. See this for more info: https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5985219&postcount=66

I want to say that I generally follow the obvious rule of checking all fuses anytime there is an issue. But I've either missed a blown fuse or not looked early enough in the troubleshoot steps. Which has caused some headaches. Apparently blown fuses and/or shorts can cause some really weird issues. I figured I would document a couple weird issues I've had in the hopes to save someone else some time and headache and hope they get here from a google search. 1) The following stopped working all at the sametime: Dome, map, trunk and door lights Radio HVAC display (HVAC does turn on and work) Key Fob Information display showing that doors are open Seems like the BIU was dead. Solution: Fuse labeled as "Backup" in engine bay fuse box was blown. Thread about that here. 2) ABS and traction control lights come on. AT temp light flashing. The following codes from the dash DTC, under the ABS section: C0045, C0047, C0071. I read the following code from the TCU: P0957-Backup light relay circuit too low. Headlights won't turn on/headlights turn on when they off when in reverse. Reverse lights don't work. Cause and solution: Reverse lights circuit shorted out and blew "Lamp" fuse in fuse box by drivers feet.

I hate to even have to make another post but not all the pervious info I found was correct. I'm not even sure how much of it is correct. After blowing a bunch of fuses, getting some error codes and my headlights stopped working I found out the pin outs I found have a mistake. Most import mistake is Pin 9 on the mirror is NOT for reverse inhibit (12v in reverse). Wiring that to the pin 3 on the car harness (12v when in reverse) will blow the 10A fuse labeled "lamp". Side note. If you blow that fuse, with a short it will throw the following codes on the dash display under the abs module: C0045, C0047, C0071. The abs and traction control light comes one and the at temp light will flash. Reading the TCU codes with the tatrix will give you this code: P0957-Backup light relay circuit too low. My final wiring: Mirror Car Function Pin #1 - Pin #1 - 12V ACC (Homelink) Pin #3 - Pin #2 - GND Pin #7 - Pin #3 - Auto disable when in reverse (12V when in reverse) Pin #6 - Pin #1 - 12V ACC Alternate wiring that should work as I tried it through my "testing" Pin #6 - Pin #1 - 12V ACC (Homelink) Pin #8 - Pin #2 - GND Pin #7 - Pin #3 - Auto disable when in reverse (12V when in reverse) Pin #10 - Pin #1 - 12V ACC Basically Mirror wiring: Pin #8 or #3 Can be wired to ground Pin #1 or #6 Will power the homelink (12v) Pin #10 Will power the mirror (auto dim and compass) Pin #7 Should get 12v when in reverse to disable auto dim Other pins are unknown or not used, like 2 pins for temp but this mirror doesn't have temp display Sources for info: How to wiring up auto dim disable in reverse, showing the use of pin #7 This looks accurate, and I might have made a mistake on pins 1 - 5, if this is correct Detailed info on the subaru harness, though it seems some of the info is incorrect First pinout I found, kind of incorrect Also the connector is labeled with the numbers, you can see that in this picture Pin 10 and 6 are labeled. So it should be hard to get the pins wrong. To depin the connector, pop up the white lock, it doesn't come off. Then insert something small and thin to the small hole above/bellow the hole used for the connection itself. I'm not sure how exact the model matters for this wiring the the exact model of mirror I used: Gentex 453 ZTVHL3 Final edit I hope. This actually looks like the correct pin out. I likely counted 1-5 pins wrong (that still doesn't explain why people got pin 7 and 9 mixed up in most of the info I found) My wiring does work. So in my case pin 1 is really pin 5 Info taken from here CLIP 5 4 3 2 1 10 9 8 7 6 1 - Not Used ( Temp probe with temp version ) 2 - Not Used ( Temp probe ) 3 or 8 - Ground 4 - Not Used 5 or 10 - Battery +12v ( Homelink Supply) 6 - Ignition (Mirror Supply) 7 - (Optional) +12v from reverse light circuit 9 - Not Used Corrections to my wiring given the above pin counting order My final wiring: Mirror Car Function Pin #6 - Pin #1 - 12V ACC (Homelink) Pin #3 - Pin #2 - GND Pin #7 - Pin #3 - Auto disable when in reverse (12V when in reverse) Pin #10 - Pin #1 - 12V ACC Alternate wiring that should work as I tried it through my "testing" Pin #6 - Pin #1 - 12V ACC (Homelink) Pin #8 - Pin #2 - GND Pin #7 - Pin #3 - Auto disable when in reverse (12V when in reverse) Pin #5 - Pin #1 - 12V ACC Basically Mirror wiring: Pin #8 or #3 Can be wired to ground Pin #10 or #5 Will power the homelink (12v) Pin #6 Will power the mirror (auto dim and compass) Pin #7 Should get 12v when in reverse to disable auto dim

Haven't knocked off much on my to do list but couple things have been done. Brakes had to be done badly, knew then were getting thin but the friction material fell off one of the rear pads. Ordered and installed Raybestos Element 3 hybrid (semi-metallic and ceramic) pads and Raybestos Element 3 coated rotors. Never used either so we'll see how they do. Fronts, well I was going to upgrade to the GT/bigger brakes as I needed rotors also. But sourcing front caliper for cheap is a bit challenging up here. But I was getting in dire need. Thankfully I had a friend give me some old pads to hold me over. Cleaned them up and put them on. Oddly enough my vibration on braking went away. So looks like I might not need rotors afterall, they did look fine. So I think I'll be ordering some pads for the front and just sticking with the stock size for now. I'll keep a look out for calipers so when and if I have to get new rotors, I'll do an upgrade at the same time. While browsing a local scrap yard I remembered I wanted to get a homelink mirror so I grabbed one of those and installed it. Since I didn't have the correct wiring harness for it I had to make mine own. Thought it would be easy. Turned out to be a bit of a pain due to some misinformation. But its all sorted out now. Details about my issues and some wiring info about the homelink mirror can be found here. One neat feature of the homelink is it can control wireless relays. Unfortunately the ones I have and planned to use are 433mhz and looks like they need to be 315mhz to work with the mirror so I'll have to order some of those as well. I finally got around to bench testing some leds I plan to use for rear fog lights. I'm excited to learn they are damn bright. Got a spare set of rear reflectors to play with also, as thats where they are going to get mounted. I'll hopefully have more on this later and hopefully have them done in the next month or so. Also found a crown vic grill in the yard so there will be a new grill in the future, so that's been added to the to do list.

Thank you! That confirms it. *******This info looks to mostly be wrong see post 5 for correct info*********** And I finally found the pinout for the subaru on an accord forum of all places: https://www.driveaccord.net/threads/diy-gntx-313-homelink-dimming-mirror.471794/ Pinout if anyone needs it in the future: Harness part #H501SAG030 (For gentex 453 Model:ZTVHL3) Pin #1 = 12V (ACC) Pin #3 = GND Pin #9 = 12V (Reverse) Pin #6 and #10 are connected together Some details about the mirror from the above post. Pin #1 and #6 are connected internally. Pin #3 and #8 are connected internally and are Ground so either can be used (I used pin 8). Pin #6 is to power the home link. So pins 1, 6 and 10 all get connected together and get 12V ACC. Pins #4 and #5 are for a temp sensor but I think only on certain mirrors have that (display area is bigger). That leaves #2 and #7 as unknown. I don't think its necessary to use pin #1 as I powered it up using only pin #10 and pin #8. So that would save a wire if you want/need to. To fix my issue, I'm just going to jumper 6 and 10 and move where I have my current pin in 6 to pin 9. Too bad I didn't have the right pinout to start with. EDIT: DO NOT USE. I blow a fuse going into reverse. I have to investigate if it's an issue with my wiring or the pinout. 99% sure it's the pinout because if the wire is unplugged from the mirror I don't have any issues. If anyone wants to meter out the subaru harness for a homelink mirror I would greatly appreciate it. This has already been a headache and it would be really easy to just match Subaru's harness 1 to 1 and be done with it and know it's correct. My Final Wiring: Mirror Car Function Pin #6 - Pin #1 - 12V ACC Pin #8 - Pin #2 - GND Pin #9 - Pin #3 - Auto disable when in reverse (12V when in reverse) Pin #10 - Pin #1 - 12V ACC (Homelink)

Actually maybe I know the answer. Seeing as I'm not using the OEM wiring harness from the plug in the headliner to the mirror, and I just made one, kind of assumed the following: 1 Car (ING) - 6 Mirror (ING) 2 Car (GND) - 8 Mirror (GND) 3 Car -------- 10 Mirror (BATT) (before I really knew what pin 3 was) Maybe the oem harness is wired: 1 Car (ING) - 6 Mirror (ING) 1 Car (ING) - 10 Mirror (BATT) (Jumpering 6 and 10 basically) 2 Car (GND) - 8 Mirror (GND) 3 Car (Inhibit) - 9 Mirror (Inhibit) (Apparently there is an inhibit) Might also be slight differences in models of the gentex, I think I might have read where some might internally jumper pin 6 and 10 so you would only see 3 wires. I didn't grab this from a subaru. Exact model is: ZTVHL3 I guess it would be quick to find out for anyone with a home link mirror installed. Does the home link work without the key turned to IGN? Or does it need to have the the key turned to IGN to allow the home link to work?? Looks like some manufactures don't allow the mirror to work without the key in due to security reasons. So I guess people can't break into your car and open your garage door. Sure looks like they use a jumper, if this is the right harness.

Go to the 5th post to get the correct wiring info for the gentex 453 ZTVHL3. I think I may have answered my own question but to confirm it, could someone please tell me: Does the home link work without the key turned to IGN? Or does it need to have the the key turned to IGN to allow the home link to work?? I've identified the problem but don't understand why my car is wired how it is. The car came stock with auto-dimming and compass (gentex 455) mirror. It has 3 wires going to it. 1-ING 12V 2-GND 3-Reverse inhibit (12v in reverse) The new mirror (gentex 453) with auto-dimming, compass and home link needs: 1-ING 12V (pin 6 on the mirror) 2-GND (pin 8 on the mirror) 3-BATT (constant 12v) (pin 10 on the mirror) Turns out the gentex 453 will work (compass and auto-dimming) with just 12v ING and GND, but the homelink won't work. Home link needs the BATT. The wiring diagram shows with home link and without home link. Without home link is supposed to only be a 2 wire connector. The connector is also black. I have a 3 pin connection and the connector is natural color. My 3 pin has the following color wires: 1-Yellow/Blue 2-Black 3-Brown/Yellow But the wiring diagram has the following for the 3 pin: 1-Yellow/Blue 2-Black 3-Blue/Red Whats going on? Everything I read was its just plug and play, the connector is right there. "I installed it in 11 minutes" I thought it was going that smooth until I found out my home link didn't work. I'm sure I could cut the wire and wire it to the blue/red constant 12v that it looks like it would have been wired to but I want to know if there is a better way or a more correct way. I can't be I'm the only one... Some links where I got info from. may or may not be accurate: https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/installed-gentex-homelink-auto-dimming-mirror-from-a-2006-subaru-forester.211753/ https://www.wembleysells.com/mirrortech/GentexHomeLinkMirrorComparison.htm https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/autodimming-review-mirror-replacement-options.264658/ https://www.scoobymods.com/showthread.php/inside-rear-view-mirror-info-8819.html? https://www.thenewx.org/threads/gentex-453-temperature-homelink-mirror-install-with-plug-info.97265 https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads/installing-a-gentex-auto-dimming-mirror-with-homelink-into-a-16-civic.3106/post-293572

Thanks for the confirmation.

Well according to this: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/gt-brakes-xt-gt-dust-shields-required-283849.html?p=5987706 The front calipers and brackets are needed. Including front dust shields if you want to keep it oem. Otherwise you can ditch them.