nevets27

Doubt there is much you can do now but if there is a CD in there and the unit gets turned upside-down the CD will dislodge and make the CD player useless until its taken apart to get the CD out. So it would be best to get it out now if it's being shipped.

Yeah I probably should have mentioned it if I didn't. Trying to remove over spray is a futile effort. I learned that the same way. Qtip and alcohol. Depending on the situation I actually found if you are really gentle with just a dry Qtip it can possibly remove light over spray. But most of the time it's almost a guarantee you'll end up removing the chrome. And trying to paint it back chrome is next to impossible so best you can do is just makes it a close grey like you did. I stressed over having nice lines and bits of barely noticeable over spray but once it's assembled and your nose is further then a foot away its hard to notice the imperfections.

Nice, feels good doesn't it?

The led relay will probably fix your issue. But just some info for future knowledge, the resistors can change resistance when they get hot and could then not provide enough resistance that is necessary. They could also just fail all together but still have no effect on the led actually working. That is if there are resistors built into them in the first place.

That was exactly what my issue was.

Yep, I had noise coming from mine. Took it apart cleaned it out and greased it. Sounded like new after. Easy to do also.

Nice! Did you try to extend it? I still want to do it...

Since I get the feeling people don't follow the lights over to hidplanet and that everyone likes pictures, hell I like pictures. Here are some of my third brake light mod. Comparison with stock, exposure lowered http://i.imgur.com/1GqN7vW.jpg Installed in stock housing Result More info/pictures etc. here: https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/forum/showoff/projector-retrofits/1460346-2009-subaru-legacy-hid-retrofit?p=1462477#post1462477 Comparison of stock signal bulbs and LEDs, keep in might some of the reflective surface of my turn signal has been darkened slightly Lower exposure for comparison, stock on the right Closer to reality but I think still lowered as it blew out the camera More info/review on the bulbs here as well as a couple videos https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/forum/general-discussion/leds/1462119-alla-lighting-1300lm-led-bulbs Not promoting them in anyway just providing my experience with them.

Thanks guys. Haven't had time to do too much this summer but got one thing done I wanted to before winter. And should be able to knock off a couple more things soon. I was able to get the rear diff bushings installed. That was pretty much a piece of cake. Wasn't expecting to feel a difference but I'm happy they are in there. I just finished installing this kit: DEFA WarmUp 1000 Futura I came across someone selling these locally for stupid dirt cheap so I had to buy one or well a couple actually just to have for other cars or family or resell. The pictures I have are terrible as I took them when I just finished and rushing to leave. Charger/Relay, with the wires going in and out. There's 120v from the plug on the front going it. 120v going into the interior for the heater, 120v going to a standard plug to plug in the block heater. Finally the harness goes over to the battery for power/charging and the wire for the controller, and a temperature sensor. I ran those into the grommet in the drivers side fender. Found an unused hole going to the interior thankfully it was the perfect size for the cable. A bit challenging to get the wire through as the other side isn't visible. I'm really glad this worked though. Interior side, ignore the other random wires, they are for other projects that will be posted later. Bracket to hold the heater, also a bit challenging to fit it in and get the angles right to keep it away from the seat and trim. Worked out well though, I can pull the heater off easily to allow the seat to slide forward, which is rare. It doesn't go 100% forward but its close. Easily enough to give someone in the rear some leg room. Plug in the front, hidden behind the license plate. Straight on its hard to see, it looks obvious in this picture for somewhat obvious reasons. Bad pic... Forgot to take a pic of the controller in the interior. I'll add that and some better pictures later. Also adding one of these: https://www.itead.cc/sonoff-sv.html So I can control the system via my phone/google home. Already have one setup to start my car. Otherwise the system is designed to have a time put into the controller of when you are supposed to be leaving (for day work). So everyday by that time the car will be warmed up. It figures out how long that will need to be based on the outside temperature sensor. It has a few other features but that's mainly how it works. Only negative is no way to turn it on demand. Which is why I'm adding the above wifi controller. I just need to apply 12v to the yellow wire in the charger/relay box and it will turn everything on. Next up, backup camera and truck release button.

As far as painting and taping off the chrome, take a look at my build project here: https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/forum/showoff/projector-retrofits/1460346-2009-subaru-legacy-hid-retrofit TL;DR version is yellow frog tape meant for delicate surfaces and post-it notes. Both won't pull up the chrome. Also if you need to tape off a complex surface, playdoh works for that. Be extremely careful with the chrome as it's easy to rub it off if you are trying to clean up overspray. For the most part if you are trying to clean up any paint on the chrome where you didn't want it you'll likely damage the chrome so just be very particular about taping off. As for painting. Lots of very light coats to get the paint to stick. The paint doesn't want to stick to chrome being slippery and all but light coat will allow it to stick. But it's also going to be delicate and easy to damage so be care with handling and reassembly. I don't think I would suggest clear coating them before or after. If you clear before then the paint will have a hard time sticking to the clear coat. You could clear coat after but no real need as it's behind the lense so it doesn't really need protection but I guess it probably wouldn't hurt. And yeah taping it off will be art work and time consuming if you want it to have good sharp lines. Mine took incredibly long to tape. The tape "art work" is in that build. Good luck, it will likely be a lot of work but not terribly difficult and the results are rewarding.

I think the transmission does let the car down a bit. It would definitely be quicker with a manual. Though I'm not personally sure how much better it gets with some tuning, from what I've read it does get much better. The other annoyance is the DBW, it really feels like it's restricting the throttle and actually I have looked at TPS vs throttle plate position and it definitely does. Again should be able to be fixed with tuning. It is a bit annoying it left the factory like this but I guess it was setup for a more smooth and gettle ride or something. 0-40 isn't the 3.0R strong point (and compared to brz I'm guessing any legacy will be slower off the line due to the weight of it). It does better at passing, it can get into its power band quick when its already rolling. Completely uneducated guess is that it was a good price already. They either had it higher already and reduced or just started low. If it didn't have anything wrong with it and it was that low mileage as long as someone who drove it was impressed/happy with it then the price wouldn't have been too hard to swallow at 8k.

Did the test drive ever happen?

Only suggestions I have are Rain X or wax. I've waxed my windshield before and it works basically the same as rain x. Both require good buffing to make sure there's no hazing. The issue with both is you need to keep on top of it and maintain it. I would say at least once a month. Doesn't take long for it to wear off.

I would bet theres a way to rewire the car so the DRL uses the high beam. That's how the 08/09's are wired. Now word of warning, that will cause a different issue. The low voltage going to the high beam will try and activate the high beam shield of the HID projector so you need to wire in a relay to cut power to the HID solenoid when the head lights are off. That's how I wired up mine. But I have a 09 so I didn't have to change the DRL wiring. Or just continue to drive with the headlights on, no real harm in that. Though I personally hate seeing tailights on during the day because at a quick glance it's hard to tell if somone is braking or just have their lights on during the day. Where in Canada are you? I'm hopefully not the same place that cop is. Sounds brutal.

Well they don't make an outback with a 6mt. And from what I'm aware the stock suspension on an outback it pretty spoft and pretty crap so the the work here gets a better end result. I'm pretty sure the Outback sedans are pretty rare so might not be easy to find one. And they also have completely different styling. I get where you're coming from and yeah buying a Outback would be a quick and easy way for more ground clearance but this is a much better end result. How the car treating you 09specb_vt?

Seeing as the 3.0r is identical to the LGT other then the engine (and front sway bar) I would say this is an appropriate home and from what I've seen everyone is welcoming. The Outback is very similar too, with there being just a slight difference in suspension so the info there is useful. The above post is accurate about the different fourms and the users here and there. There's a lot of good info around.

45/55 is full time. In contrast the 2.5i is 90 Front until slip is detected, then it transfers more to the rear but it will "drive" like a FWD or so it seems on paper, I haven't driven a 4th Gen. I did have a 94 legacy and it drove like a fwd and took forever to realize the rear was slipping (a simple switch fixed that though ) As for the bilstein's I'm not really sure at what point they need to be replaced I'm sure that depends on a few factors. What I can say is that the Koni with stock springs provide a great ride. Prefect combo of comfort and Sport. And they are adjustable. And they definitely aren't 2k. Without getting into too much detail my 3.0r came with kyb so slightly different scenario. No idea on weight distribution but I doubt it's anywhere close to 50/50 seeing as it's a front engine car...and they didn't put the battery in the back to try and shift even a small amount of weight to the rear so I'm sure there wasn't much thought put into that. And I agree with the above. It's pretty much, and I hate to say it, a cheaper sport luxury sedan. But then again it's all about perspective. I work on my car and I like how easy it is to work on. As nice as German cars are I wouldn't want to deal with them. Then again the flat six is just a sexy engine, I also love the boxer rumble but these have a their own beautiful tune. BTW, if you haven't come across this site its a great resource: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/legacy/legacy2008.html Also as far as engine problems, from the research I had done there is very few issues these engines have. They don't have the head gasket issues like the 2.5's. The only common things I saw was a idler pulley bearing can wear out prematurely, super simple fix. And the timing chain tensioner can loosen or something (can't recall off the top of my head the exact situation). But from what I understand it's not an engine damage situation, you'll just hear rattling of the chain hitting the guides so that will tell you it needs some TLC without destroying anything. But neither of those things are guaranteed to happen at all. And since it is a timing chain, it doesn't ever need replacement. People get some pretty consistently high mileage out of these engines from what I've read. I think like 200k easily so at 65k if it turns out to be as reliable as seemingly the norm, you really shouldn't have to think about the engine at all. Just keep it well maintained. Also maintain the 5eat, change the fluid, keep it happy and it should be fine. People stress them a lot more here with the power the put out of their modded GT's. There is actually some decent info on the forum here too. It's where I got what I need to be comfortable with my purchase. There just isn't that many threads about them here for some what obvious reasons. The outback forums should have a good amount of info too. Honestly for the mileage sounds like a pretty decent deal. Of course it's not just mileage. Oh, somewhat like the GTs the front inner CV boots fail much sooner then most cars due to the heat from the exhaust. The GTs only have one that goes bad quicker, while the 3.0 have both over top of the exhaust, thankfully they are easy to see from the top of the engine bay. About the only other common thing is the rear bushing in the front control arms, they go bad pretty quick. But aren't a big deal seeing as that's about it. Lastly is rust, behind rear doors under the plastic, rear wheel wells and there's a junction/4way for the brake lines right in front of the rear passenger tire, there's a little access panel you can flip open to see it. (There's a recall for that)* Those are the places to look, if you're in an area that has rust. But these seem to be pretty good as stuff rust pretty good hear and mine is actually in good shape. *Side note I still can't believe Subaru was still doing this is 2009, my 94 had the exact same brake line routing and failed at that exact same spot. Get another Subaru that's 15 years newer and same problem. BTW (again if in a rust prone area) just keep it well covered in rust preventative oil and that should help prevent a problem. Lastly, if you read this before taking the test drive, be sure to play with the paddle shifting. It's no manual but it's definitely something, rev matched down shifting is fun. And remember to put it in "S#" (makes it shift more sporty but also makes the throttle a bit more touchy) When you first start it there will be a blue light in the bottom left of the dashboard, you can't put it into S# until that blue light goes out (the engine has warmed up). You can put it into "S" right away, which I would do. Whatever you do don't drive it in "i" you'll hate it [emoji14]

Just plugged it into a usb hub. Don't remember the exact settings as I just bench tested it. But I could put it all together again to test if needed. I don't know if I'll actually use it though. The issues with having the power applied in the right order so the tablet recognizes the usb/usb devices. Plus the sleeping and charging issues I have I don't feel the end result is going to be polished enough to not drive me nuts. Could be a variety of reasons with my particular setup but even still I don't feel putting effort into a tablet this old is worth it. I have it for now, just for Spotify and NAV basically and that's fine but long term in want a better system. I know what I want and I'm sure I'll get it at some point but there hasn't been much for advancement in it coming to market. Want I want is android automotive. No not android auto (Google and it's less then stellar naming scheme). It's what new cars will be coming with. Only a couple exist or will exist soon. It's pretty simply just full android running on a onboard computer. And will only connect to your phone to sync data and tether mobile internet. The major part though is it's built to interact with hardware (form what I remember they call this HAL). So in OEM form that means it can control just about any aspect of the car. Which sadly won't be that helpful in the aftermarket. But it is built to handle Bluetooth comunication (read handsfree) and has the app necessary to Dial phone calls etc. And it's not a hack like the Chinese headunits. So far someone has made an Android 9 automotive build but only made it compatible with 2 boards. One which is outdated kind of and is being replaced by the second supported board that is not easy to get a hold of yet and kind of exsesively expensive. So not a good start but it's a pretty new thing in general so hopefully there will be some improvement there. So I think I might in the meantime install crankshaft/openauto/openauto pro, on a raspberry Pi and run android auto for now. At least that way all I'm installing in the dash "permanently" is just a screen. Therefore I can easily update what's plugged into it. And if I opt for openauto pro (paid) it supports Bluetooth among other things. And since the Pi has gpio pins you can control it with many different inputs quite easily. The only major loss would be btssm and not having full Android as a standalone. Basically if a phone isn't attached it's just a useless screen. Which is one of the major reasons I want full android on my Dash. That kind leads me back to the back up camera. As that will also allow me to feed the backup cam directly (kind of) to the screen and won't have to rely on anything else to display the cam. Just put in reverse and the input switcher changes to the active source and then changes back to whatever is normally on the screen. At least that's the theory.

I got this capture device, it works with vcam: Easycap USB 2.0 Audio TV Video VHS to DVD PC HDD Converter Capture Card Adapter Nothing special really in the description. But I'll post it here for archiving.

I guess it depends what you're interested in. If you want to mod the engine and make more power then the 3.0r isn't what you want. Also if you want to drive a manual then, at least in North America, the 3.0r also isn't what you want as it was never offered as a manual here. With that out of the way I personally think it fits nicely into a category of it's own. I wanted a nice daily driver without the worry and work that comes with a turbo. I also didn't want a dog. Additionally I wanted an optioned up 4th Gen. Which means the obvious option at that point is the 3.0r. It was also still designed with sport/performance in mind compared to the 2.5i. Same brakes as the GT, same suspension as the spec b, and same power distribution (F 45, R 55). Getting back to the category. The fact that it's in its own I think makes it "less desirable" For people that want all out performance the GT is the answer. For someone that wants economy there's the 2.5i. Which leaves the 3.0r. seeing as the two most obvious categories are already filled, there isn't really much of a market left for it. Which is kind of the category I explained above. And I don't think there are many consumers in that category, hence it's less popular. I guess a good way to look at it is, it's a GT with an NA engine. And a good/reliable NA at that. I drove a GT and a 3.0r back to back, with the GF. And for different reasons we both liked the 3.0r more, it's such a nice and smooth engine. Stock for stock I would much prefer the 3.0r. But it's not really a comparison anymore when you start to mod a GT or want a manual. The 5eat isn't great. And does feel like it's letting the rest of the car down as far as feel is concerned. But it can be tweaked a bit for improvement via tuning. For me I was ok with the auto for my daily. A 6mt would be a ton more fun though. But again was never offered here.

My exhaust is in similar shape. The entire exhaust isn't rusted much but the flange on both the mufflers and the y pipe where they meet the mufflers are in pretty bad shape. Personally I want to get the flanges replaced on both the y pipe and the mufflers so it's all in good shape again. But they will eventually just rust out again, could use stainless flanges but they are a bit pricey and it will just rust out where they are welded to the steel pipe. It also seems the flange size isn't too common either to buy a replacement flange. Then there is the challenge of getting them installed right so the mufflers sit right. I have a set of hks es premium's I want to put on but if I take the stock mufflers off, what remains of the flange won't be enough to hold or seal the mufflers to the y pipe. If your stock mufflers are fine and you aren't highly interested in some more noise, the stock mufflers are pretty good and would likely be hard to replace with something as quiet.

Wasn't the idler/tentioner bearing for the assesory belt also known to go bad and make noise? Just something else that it might be worth looking at. From my understanding it was that and the timing chain tentioners that where the most common failures.

That's an interesting idea. Could probably get that to work with basic electronics or with an arduino. If going the arduino route they also have carbon monoxide sensors. So you could also set it up to open the door when it senses exhaust. And if placed relatively close to the exhaust/rear of the car then it souod likely detect it right away. Might be a bit more realistic then a photocell only due to sunlight having the chance of setting it off and opening the door. Though I'm sure there would be ways to help prevent that, there's still a chance it would happen randomly/unexpected. (I forgot I had already mentioned that) The other option is to wire to a 12v hot when running wire in the car. Use that to trip a relay and then that relay would close the contacts on a spare garage door opener. A momentary relay or some electronics to make it a momentary action would be needed. Actually that could probably all be done inside the mirror. If one was brave enough, you could open the mirror and wire to one of the buttons contacts. It's likely the mirror gets power on either ACC or when running so you could use that. I have opened up a older OnStar mirror and soldered to the board to use the buttons for other functions. So it's very likely possible.

One other suggestion would be to try something like the pop can trick for wifi antennas. This is just a quick Google for an example (might not be the best example) https://www.cnx-software.com/2011/09/15/can-a-beer-can-really-boost-your-wifi-router-signal/ The basic idea is to try and amplify the signal by bouncing it off the metal. This also makes the signal more directional. Which may also help with the interference of the neighbours. But will also decrease the signal strength from behind the can which depending on your repeaters setup could be an issue. Ideally you want as close to line of sight as possible going through as few objects as possible. You might also want to check what channel your wifi is set up on. If your using 2.4ghz then there is only 3 truely separate channels. 1, 6 and 11. Use only one of those channels and the one that's has the lowest signal strength of other neighbours networks. (good way to figure that out is wifi anylzer app on Google play store. Not sure for iPhone but I'm sure there is a similar app) If that doesn't help you could try a slightly different approach to extending your range. I'm not sure how well that extender works as I'm guessing it's just repeating the wifi. It might work fine but I don't know. If it does just repeat the wifi then the can trick likely won't work and would probably be awkward to try and put on it. You could use something like this instead: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1000-802-11ac-Gigabit/dp/B01929V7ZG There are probably cheaper options but I saw this has external antennas so the can trick would work or if they are removable you could put better antennas on it if need be. It's also a power line adapter. So you plug one into the wall by your router and run an ethernet cable into it. The other piece get plugged in as far as you can get to the garage and it will get the network traffic over the power line and then transmit wifi. And interest thought is you could also try running and extension cord off the back of your house and have that pluged in. Not sure if that would work as I've never tried but in theory it should. Would need to put the extender in a waterproof box. Come to think of it depending your situation you could try that with your existing repeater. But it all depends on your wifi situation. I'm just assuming it's week signal. Lots of interference might be hard to overcome. Though 5ghz can help a lot with that but has a harder time traveling further distances.

The power line adapter would only work if the power to the garage runs into your house. This would mean you should have a breaker for the garage power in your house. From the sounds of it, it's unlikely that the power runs to your house and therefore the power line adapter won't work for you. Which leaves you with the wifi route. Which you've already went down. Now you just need to improve the range and you should be good. Giving advice on how to improve your wifi is a bit difficult due to many variables so if you can I would just learn and research a bit about wifi and how to improve it and that should help you out. 2 key things to remember is if you have a lot of interference with neighbours then that will kill the signal. And the signal has to talk both ways. So having a strong transmitted signal at the house is only half of the battle. Also it looks like you have one part of it mounted to a metal door. If that have to send signal through the door the metal will definitely hurt the signal strength.