MTBwrench

I bought my OBXT with 189,000 miles on it in December of 2014 for $4,900 Twelve thousand miles later... Longblock, turbo... $5250 AccessPORT, downpipe, uppipe, EBCS, groupN mounts everywhere... $2,000+ Legacy GT brake swap, DBA 4000 rotors, hawk pads, fluid... $650 Other maintenance items(coil packs, injector cleaning, hoses, plugs)... easily $2,000 Id say I'm close to $13,000 at this point. I have at least another $6,000 planned in suspension, TMIC, intake, wheel/tire package, and bushings everywhere. Yes it has a 5EAT, yes I like my 5EAT every day after my 32 mile commute in stop and go city traffic. I regret nothing

Video or it didn't happen!!! (I would just love to see that, I'll bet it sounds amazing) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good luck... A majority of the avid brakes I bleed end up pushing chunks of seals into the syringe at some point... That is unless you regularly bleed them, they just don't like to have old fluid in them at all. I love avid brakes because when they work right, they work REALLY good. But damnit, when they aren't behaving, they're nothing but trouble. Same case with Magura. If you think about it, the Avid Elixir/XO/XX series is kind of like the LGT of the bicycle brake world. Haha You should just ditch the Avids and get some Hope Tech E4's Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It probably adds too much horsepower

I guess checking his build thread probably should be something I would have thought of...

JDM legacy STi wheels would look amazing, I'll bet. While You're on the JDM parts finding kick

Holy twinscroll!!!

I'd go! Just as soon as I get the wagon back together…. :roll eyes: Good luck on the move! Too bad we didn't get to meet up before you left, I was really looking forward to seeing your "PZEV" Too bad my block blew up just barely broken in…

Any updates yet?

Yep, can't disagree with you on that. I see no reason a set of MT8's should cost upwards of $90 more than the latest gen XTR system. Props to Hayes, too, I haven't had to deal with their warranty dept yet but I've only heard good things. I love it when bike companies don't jock their customers around, and take care of them rather nicely. That's how you build a reputation.

Magura has the BEST customer service ever! My MTS started leaking the other day... From the mater cylinder. So my entire XX shifter and my nice hubs got covered in mineral oil. Thank god it wasn't DOT. I tried to bleed them and rebuild them a few times, but to no avail. So I called them up and asked what can be done about it. Long story short, under their "5 year leakproof warranty" they're sending me a whole new set of MTS, new pads, storm SL rotors, and they're cutting the lines to length for me. Go Magura!!! I know most aren't a big fan of their brakes, but for a lightweight XC bike they simply feel amazing. Just thought I would share Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Awesome! Glad you got it sorted! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

^I was one of those few. Cracked ringland on 4, and it consumed maybe 3/4 quart every 2000 miles, and that's including the PCV and oil cooler leaks I had. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pinkbike made me want a yeti sb66 in the worst kind of way... But then I realized I live in Illinois and 100 of it's 160mm of travel would never be used. I've definitely checked the "spend half my cars value" box a few times though... It's worth it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How have I not seen this thread before! As a bike mechanic, I'm afforded the ability to touch lots of bikes and bike parts every weekend at work. I get to play with GT, Diamondback, Pinarello, Specialized, Pivot, and Giant. If you guys ever need info on new stuff, I may know a thing or two. Turboboost, I've been racing a 15" alloy 2013 Stumpy for three seasons now, they're great bikes. Specialized never strays too far from the classic geometry of these things, and it just works. They're a little short on travel though. Having ridden an anthem, I find it meh. To this day, the best full-squish bike's I've ridden are the Epic 29 (if you like short travel), and the Mach 429 (if you want more travel). The Mach 429 was magical, almost Ibis Ripley like in its magicalness.

Ugh, boy, that's scary territory right there...

It could be an O2 sensor as well. Have you replaced that yet? (I apologize if its somewhere else in your thread, just chiming in )

Well, the codes cleared this morning, I believe I'm out of the woods! *knocks on wood* Now I just need to solve my totally unpredictable knock issue, and I'll be one step closer to completion.

I'll give that a shot tomorrow. It's my understanding that the Accessport can only reset codes on the ECU and not the TCU. It was indeed P1718 as well. I forgot to mention I got an ER+HC in the dash as well, but as soon as I restarted the car that disappeared. I'll bet some fluke happened, and now the TCU has that CAN code stored. If all else fails, I'll disable the code, but I'd really rather not take that route, I'm too OCD about the wagon to let something like that be covered up

^This. That was my problem. The few tutorials I had read over on the outback forums made no mention of that. I actually found a page of the FSM that outlined the process, after a little more research just now, but it said to connect the two white connectors. I did that and it worked! I got 4 codes.. 1 powertrain and 3 ABS: P1718, C0106, C0107, C0108 That powertrain code is a CAN BUS issue with the TCM, isnt it? I find that very odd.. as I haven't touched anything. I figured the code would go away after a few driving cycles, but a week later it's still there... The other three are for ABS sensors, which I also find odd. No flashing ABS light and once again nothing was touched. I also find it odd that three sensors go bad at once, but ABS issues are for another topic. I should also add that the wagon drives just fine, and ABS indeed works as well. I took it on a short road trip to Indiana today with zero issues whatsoever. I believe I have a wiring gremlin

I just realized your sig said that! I swear to god though, I must've tried a million times to no avail... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've got a 2005... I believe that whole code reader thing is a no go for me do you know of any other ways to red TCU codes? Maybe FreeSSM? I get what your saying though. From what I understand it's just the TCU telling the ECU to turn on the light, it could be any number of things. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

I got a p0700 yesterday, "TCU malfunction" according to the accessport. But the wagon drives just the same as it ever has... has anyone gotten this code before? It's such a general code I have no clue how to diagnose it...

I believe Barmanbean has one, but the splitter fitment wasn't great due to the drivetrain drop from the OBXT subframe spacers. I cant pay that much for a top mount and not have it fit absolutely perfect (or modify it nicely to do so).

I am so depressed they haven't designed a splitter compatible with the OBXT yet. Does anyone have word if they ever will?