MTBwrench

A climate control that only works when the ambient temps are comfortable anyways? Talk about annoying! Good work checking all the relays and such. I'm no super familiar with the climate control electrical bits, but I would say the CC would still probably work despite a bad A/C relay, or fan relay etc... My next step would be pulling the unit out, and locating the harnesses attached to the CC unit. I'll bet, somewhere on here is an electrical diagram of the harness pin-out, and what wires do what. It seems like you're getting cut form power, so I would find what wires supply power, and make sure they're doing so when they need to. If that all checks out okay, I would look into seeing if there is some type of thermal overload circuit on the CC unit. If Subaru put one in there, and it's malfunctioning, it could be cutting power to the CC unit to avoid overheating(even if its not actually overheating).

And then when he got the turbo and had to do some sort of major work on it, he may rethink his decision, but that would all go away when he was done rebuilding a stage 2 setup. That's the typical route of action, right? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Let me rephrase myself: My stock trans mount BUSHING is done. If the mount itself was done, I'd probably have some pretty major issues... Haha. Glad to hear the input though! Sounds like this is more of a "racecar" item and not necessarily daily oriented, especially where it gets cold. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Really, the biggest reason I'm considering is because my current trans mount is done. I figured in the process if I can get something better, then why not? Fishbone, can I get a little more detail on what you mean?

So much want!! I'll bet it had a big burley V8 in it too... My dad used to have a Roadmaster wagon with a 500c/i big block in it. It was slow but damnit if it ever needed to sweat above 1500rpm, total torque monster.

Yeah. You see, I just went through a new engine build and I'm having trouble coming to grips with not draining my wallet every week, so I fill the void by just throwing money at the wagon. No, no... My 200k trans mount is almost non-existent at this point. The Rallitek is cheaper/easier to source/possibly better than OEM. I take it you see no point in it?

So, that means I should probably sort out my rough idle issue first before I go and transfer even more drivetrain movement into the chassis. But once that's done, I'll definitely be getting one of these!

^this! And which hardness do you have? I know it's only $45... But that's a real pain in the ass to go through for nothing... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So... does anyone have experience with the Rallitek 5EAT trans mount, in particular the harder version?

"It's too long, and it's ugly" -my girlfriend, regarding my wagon. (Let the dirty jokes flow )

194K, Midwestern OBXT. Marginal chassis rust, no body rust. Developing a rather large oil leak at the moment. But, otherwise just regular maintenance. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I thought so too, but I had the UP off not two months ago and all was dry. No leaks whatsoever. I also noticed the other day both the the PCV and the breather near the center of the block have big oily stains around them, which lead to the back of the block, and down the case. I'm pretty sure it's my PCV malfunctioning, as these leaks are recent and I know it's never been changed. No bueno. Time to make a race wagon? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've got the same leak! Except mine is coming from everywhere on top of the block. Clogged PCV? mine likes to leak down the back of the heads, and onto the crossmember/UP. Smells delicious. I don't think it would cause a vacuum/boost leak though. If my[often flawed] logic is correct, when the motor is actually running, pressure isn't sent from the inlet to the breathers, since it's all made after the turbo. It's just getting into the case now because you're applying positive pressure to the pre-turbo piping. (assuming you're testing from there.)