MTBwrench

Coming up on 230,000 miles. Still regularly auto-x'ing it. It's holding up. Though I suppose the mileage is irrelevant at this point considering how much I've replaced in the last two years.

Some nice pictures from a cruise I took in the farmlands a few weeks back...

You sound exactly like me. I said all that almost verbatim and two years later my wagon is far, far beyond that point. Have fun!

Wow... is this real? It seems like it can't be! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nope, haven't touched the bodywork a bit. I don't really rub at all with the 245/45 setup. Whereas I rub at specific steering angles and loaded up in the back with the stock setup. I still haven't driven it full of people yet. Between me and four of my friends we could easily add another 1,200lbs to any vehicle.

It figures, the entire week after I mount my Dunlops it rains to the point of flooding. I put the Continentals back on tonight. Snagged this shot at a small lake by work. There's a boat launch and some small fishing piers under there somewhere!

I was just about to say something along the lines of "too bad the width is being used for the #lowlyfe and not for a wicked wide set of beefy track tires". But... to each their own.

Yep, that's a big bike! Pretty too. I've heard good stuff about the new Suntour forks, but serviceability kinda scares me sometimes. Half the time when I call Suntour for parts on their more expensive stuff, they don't exist. I believe they're focusing on changing that though. As NSmtb once said: "Pick a wheel size, and be a dick about it!". It really depends on riding style, conditions, and even rider fit on the frame. And really, the paramount here is geometry. My 29er feels like a sclapel compared to my friends 26er. Why? I have a steeper and shorter head tube, longer top tube, shorter stays, and a lower BB. That being said, a 29er, unless you're very short, is a no brainer for pretty much any XC. 26" is a no brainer when large travel is needed, or when things are very technical and sharp. The 27.5" wheel really does split the difference, and leans toward either 26" or 29" characteristics depending on the frame geometry. For example, my Instigator feels like an all mountain 26er with 27.5" wheels on it. Why? Well.. long fork, slack angles, long wheelbase, and wide tires. Steel is real. Lots of flexyness and usually a timeless frame. Downsides are the BB flex can be a little bit obscene if you get a cheap frame, and they're never really light. You're basically confirming what I said above about wheel size benefit being dependent on terrain. It really is true. Standover is always an issue with shorter people and 29ers. Full squish 29ers are even worse. What's your inseam? I have a 30" inseam and have room to spare on my Stumpy hardtail. Also, some pics from my 9 mile slush/mud grind I did the other morning... It almost wasn't worth it. I rode my only steel framed bike, a 2014 Surly Instigator 2.0. I'm dying to swap out the fork on there, when I can get good traction those stanctions are far too flexible. I'll probably put a 150mm Pike RCT3 on there at some point.

You know, I never really paid much attention to the body flares on the RS6. Those are pretty substantial, especially the front quarters. IMO, something like that would look great on the Legacy. I don't understand why we can't get the RS6 here in the US... I want more turbo wagon options other than the(granted, totally acceptable) V70R Polestar Edition! Also... I took a video of it, since there's not too much soundclip documentation of my exhaust setup, or my trans setup. Disregard the "who knows what it is" clicking/clunking noise it makes, I believe that's my front driver's axle taking a crap on me. I'm not doing much investigation until this weather breaks. But I will admit, it makes me livid to hear a noise like that considering basically everything is new driveline wise. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUGQ553Bjmk]Subaru Outback XT External Wastegate Soundclip - YouTube[/ame]

So my trans developed this weird noise over the last three days... it squeals. Only does it in sport mode whilst accelerating or decelerating, and at speeds of 50+mph when accelerating/decelerating. I don't even know how to approach this sort of issue... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Long story short... you won't. That is, unless you work in a shop and use their DEP program. King makes everything in Portland and they run an incredibly eco-friendly business with very high employee satisfaction. There's a reason they cost so much, and because of that they have very strict dealer pricing rules. If you want cheap CK hubs, look on Pinkbike for a used set. I'll admit, of the three sets I've owned, I ever paid retail. All my wheel builds were done while I worked at a bike shop. So I'm spoiled when it comes to cost. Find a (straight) junk wheel and disassemble it. Then practice lacing the spokes and getting everything dished and tensioned properly. Do this a few times over and you'll have the hang of it. That's a good first step. Also keep in mind you NEED the right tools: -A stable truing stand that allows you to true radially and laterally -A wheel dish tool to center the rim properly -A spoke tension gauge to verify things aren't too loose/tight -A GOOD spoke wrench. One that's actually the right size. This Park Tool page is fantastic to use, in conjunction with a tensiometer, to visually see how your build is going. This Sheldon Brown page is basically the holy grail of wheel building information. This is where I taught myself. Spocalc is a great, easy to use excel spreadsheet to help you calculate what length spokes you need. DT Swiss has one as well. Lastly, a few words of advice: You need to pick basic parts for your first wheel build. They are easier to work with and will net you better results. What do I mean by basic parts? Mostly the spokes; no bladed, no quintuple butted superlight unobtanium things. You'll pull your hair out dealing with spoke wind up and tension/true issues. Super delicate rims will have the same effect. Since you haven't developed the fine touch and feel to pick out the small nuances while you're bringing everything up to tension, it can be very easy to screw the pooch without knowing it. My first personal wheel build was Stan's ZTR Flow rims, DT Swiss Competition J bend spokes, and Chris King ISO hubs. Took about four hours total, and I trued them one time in three years. After that three years, lateral runout was ~1.3mm. My second wheel build was for my road bike: Stan's alpha 340's laced to White Ind. T11's with Sapim CX-ray spokes. Very challenging but worth it. Spoke windup is annoying to deal with on thin bladed spokes. My most recent build was WTB KOM i23 29er rims laced to another set of Chris King ISO hubs with DT Swiss Comp Race spokes and alternating red/black alloy nipples. It came out great, but definitely more work! (Edit: looking at this picture, my bike probably looks super bike-snobby, seeing all the parts on it. Oh well )

Are you sure a 17x9 Tim is going to fit? I thought people ran into issues with the lower spring perches up front rubbing with rims that wide. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Boost 110 20mn axle up front? These must be going on a big bike! I absolutely lust over the way i9 hubs sound, it's intoxicating. The maintenance is stupid simple and easy too. I still prefer King hubs though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dear freaking lord, that Datsun is magnificent. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've gotta admit, I still have yet to really feel that a BBK(along the lines of OEM Brembo calipers) is truly worth it. Having driven both a 2005 and 2015 STi, it was definitely nice, but not really more confidence inspiring as far as braking performance was concerned. Granted, they were both on OEM pads/rotors... but still. I would totally go for a Stoptech ST-40/ST-22 setup if I ever actually needed a BBK though.

Mildly constructive: Probably a better idea to go post somewhere more relevant. I.e.- the 4th gen or interior sub-forums. This thread is about hooked up wagons, not seats. More constructive: A few have done it with older STi seats, it requires some work arounds to trick the airbag system etc. Look up member scooby2.5. He has STi seats in his wagon(if he still owns it).

Have you ever seen the ass end of my wagon? If that amount of stickers constitutes vaping, then I've got them beat seven-fold. Edit: da pr00f

It's got that "lowered, but not that much, and on meaty setup because grip for the track" aesthetic about it. Fantastic!

You'll definitely get more out of it! I'm running 66.7% IDC max at 600ft elevation in the cold. That's obviously about 130cc more than my old injectors were capable of. Biggest difference was power up top. AND I still can tune for E85 with no fuel mods if I wanted(though I refuse to until I fortify my FPR) Getting 1000cc injectors will open you up to alternative fuels, and most importantly: on pump gas it'll make that turbo your biggest restriction. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

100% fully agreed. VF52 has just enough lag to build suspense, and enough punch and powerband to keep you excited. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I know... the problem is that I'm such a perfectionist and I'm so picky that I literally cannot pick a set of wheels. My favorites thus far are 18" SSR GT2... but they're impossible to find with the right PCD and offset. I also have a set of 245/45/17 Dunlop Star Specs in my garage, withe ~60% tread left, so I may get a set of 17" wheels and go the meaty route. As far as 17's are concerned, I like the Weds TC105-N(17x8 +45) and I also like the Enkei RSM9 17x8 +45. I want to keep my Bilsteins/pinks, so I'm a little hesitant to go wider than 8", maybe 8.5" if I can find it with the right offset. I'm also dreading the fender work too... Two more I liked:

Now you're lightening up. That's the spirit!

You're welding tiny little airplane garages to your exhaust?! Holy wheel spacers, Batman! I'd be scared for my wheel bearings.