MTBwrench

Yessir, Graham did tune it. Save for my stupid fuel harmonic at 2800(which is mechanical and totally out of his control) it's been fantastic so far! Fuel was Shell 93 octane. E85 numbers will come this spring, he's pretty sure we could top 300 with the same conservative tuning efforts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I swear we're living far too similar lives. I'll be doing the same on a '99 Forester this saturday. Headgaskets? p.s.- Following your build thread makes me jelly I never made one.

Figured I might as well document my dyno numbers to add to the catalog of happy JMP turbo users. Here's the meat n' potatoes: Maximum Power Run Power: 302awhp @5400rpm Torque: 323lb/ft @3100rpm Safe/Reliable Run Power: 268awhp @5500rpm Torque: 255lb/ft @4600rpm Dyno Conditions Dyno: DynoJet Temperature: ~Room Temp Humidity: 26% Presure: 29.41 in/Hg Elevation: 206 Meters Mod List -Brand new OEM Shortblock -B25 Heads rebuilt by Thirlby Automotive on Traverse City, MI (Highly recommended!) -JMP Custom52 -GrimmSpeed 38mm EWG Up-pipe -TiAl MV-S External Wastegate (1 Bar spring(s) installed) -Cobb EBCS -Cobb 5EAT Catted Downpipe -GrimmSpeed Top Mount -Turbosmart Kompact BPV -GrimmSpeed CAI -TGV's Deleted, (separator plate left in-tact) -ID1000 Top Feed Conversion -Injector Dynamics Braided Lines -Deatschwerks DW65c (I think that's all... I've done so much work I can't remember anymore.)

I'm willing to bet it's a slider issue, especially if they're not worn parallel to the backing plate. My fullsize chevy does this regularly. The only solution is new pins and bushings. It could also be a proportioning valve issue in the master cylinder, or even just bad flex lines up front(if they're OEM). One of my friends had flex lines go on his TC in the rear, we though the calipers were locked as the rear pads didn't wear at all, and the front went very quickly. Turns out the lines corroded, swelled internally, and basically plugged themselves. We were able to use the front brakes with the rear calipers off! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Has K-coat Fox 32 yet still has BB7's. Tsk tsk tsk... May I recommend a brake upgrade?

Are you talking about a direct supply with an STi regulator on the return line?

All this is absolutely boggling my mind... why on earth is vehicle speed impacting spark timing/fueling enough to misfire?! If I were you, I'd *try* sourcing an oscilloscope to look at the injector signals as vehicle speed changes.

That's a fuel pulse damper. It soaks up pressure spikes caused by the injectors opening/closing.

That is incorrect. Part# 1AC33 is the fuel pressure regulator reference line, it runs directly from the cylinder #4 intake runner to the fuel pressure regulator assembly mounted on the driver's side strut tower. Part# 14465 is the bypass valve return, which connects the bypass valve outlet to the turbo inlet. The diagram you're referencing doesn't actually display any of the "blue tee" plumbing. The blue tee connects the bypass valve reference and EVAP purge valve reference to the back of the manifold.

FTFY Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I slept like a baby the night I got the wagon running. You'll feel the best you have in a long while tomorrow morning! I'm glad we're all here to help you. I never would've rescued mine either, had the LGT community not been so knowledgeable and apt to helping me. I'm glad to have the chance to give that back to folks like you (and many others on here).

Quick4dr has a pretty hefty setup with a 5EAT, Blouch Dom 1.5xtr. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Congrats!!! Now relax and put some miles on it.

So... IS IT RUNNING YET?!?! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My favorite part was having a window open on the wagon, and a dead battery. Every time I would sweep, the interior got a light coating of delicious garage dust.... do that 7 times and you're black leather is grey. Ps- I win! http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160917/3f39d78b19ea41563015196c20df9077.jpg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yup, that's your wastegate reference line... sooooo you have no boost control at the moment. As a quick holdover, if you want wastegate pressure, just run a line from the compressor to the actuator. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are you going to mount a gauge for it anywhere, or just using the controller? (I highly recommend a gauge, mine has saved me a few times). I tapped used a JCS cubby pod, and tapped the controller into the wiring harness for the clock display. My Defi oil pressure gauge is tapped there as well, and so far no issues. That harness has the illumination circuit if you have a dimmable gauge too. Anothe roption is the "IG2" curcuit in the fuse box, use a fuse tap. I almost bought one too, but I said to myself "nah, mine is fine". This is what I get. I just re-read this and it negates everything I've typed above, but I'll leave it for reference in case you get any more gauges. There's not too much happening in the way of power sources in that area. Maybe tap into something non-critical like EVAP stuff? We need Flinkly for this one, I believe he's rather familiar with the engine harness. I've left the plugs in all my rebuilds for priming. I take the oil pump apart and pack it with Clevite bearing guard, then reassemble and loctite the screws. The grease in the pump creates instant suction and primes right away. It ran with no pressure after start up for a second maybe. Outfront taught me that one!

It appears things have just evened out, got a horrible misfire, and it turns out the crank gear is missing a tooth. The race to 250 starts tomorrow!

Dude, we are on like the exact same schedule! I just came inside after spending a solid day dropping the motor in and tying up loose ends. Hopefully it's running tomorrow! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This might be of relevance for you: https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/blow-off-valve-components/cop-514-company23-tmic-stud-kit For $8 (if you can find it locally) it's a sweet deal. I have this and their blow off valve stud kit as well. They really help with TMIC installation, too, honestly. Also, why u no GroupN engine mounts? Those stock ones are poop.Well, at least mine were, after stage 2 mods they flopped apart.

Pretty sure I have an extra set! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I understand the reservation towards taking on that project, I simply did it because of the mileage on my set. Thankfully, the O-rings came off super easy, and weren't flattened. Also, to re-align my gears I simply lined up the split ring washers with the markings they made when I removed them. I don't think balancing is much of an issue with these as there is an oil actuated steel dowel in one of the rotor arms and nothing to counteract that weight increase anywhere else in the gear. I took the risk, hopefully it bodes well.

Random thought, but while you're mid rebuild and discussing the unofficial parts and tools exchange between other (also mid rebuild) members... I have the Company 23 AVCS 5 point torx socket I can lend out if you decide you want to rebuild your cam gears. I rebuilt mine with 215k on them, and they're definitely going to benefit from it. Pretty gunky in there, even with 20,000 miles on Motul. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160912/067e458b76b7cabea42ff16b73b05392.jpg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's a byproduct of being a poor engineering undergrad. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My solution to this very issue was a really beefy forged 1/2" drive O2 socket from my local parts shop, and a beefy hose clamp. Put the socket on the sensor, thread the wire through the slot, and then slip the hose clamp on and crank it down. Then I used a 3ft breaker bar and it popped right free. Prior to that I was 110% convinced I'd be buying a new collector pipe.