MTBwrench

I've seen this happen before... always chalked it up to the fact that the parts are usually 10+ years old. Plastic has a shelf life, and all most manufacturers care about is that the part lives reliably beyond the warranty period. You definitely aren't in the dark as far as finding a new housing goes though. They're readily available from many non-OE sources. Being the devil's advocate here: Assuming your Legacy is assembled properly... there's no way for fuel to physically leak inside the cabin. There is a steel service door with a foam gasket seal which covers the pump housing. I just don't want any less knowledgeable folks smelling gasoline and having heart attacks when they come here and search the forums for help.

Probably a question better answered by Hexmods... but if it were me, I would be shimming it the same exact way it came from the factory(i.e.- when I took it apart).

^

That sounds to me like burnt or worn clutch packs. Hmm... I'll have to look into that. The issue is still 100% there, although somehow better with the modified valve body. I'm fairly sure the engine is 100% sorted as everything is new. Buuuut, on that same token, that leaves a lot of opportunity for error. We've all been there, I feel ya. I've been there too many times... looking at a laundry list of things that could make a down payment on something newer/more reliable. There is no valve body for the 2009 5EAT. I believe ClimberD only makes a valve body for the 2005-2007 5EAT model years. By to answer your questions, yes 100% worth it, and if you're talking about 300 at the wheels you may run into problems. 5EATs are all different, and mileage really plays into roles as well. Really, the weakest link is the center diff, which had fragile bearings in the sun gears. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The downpipe, assuming it is the most restrictive, will change the flow capability of the exhaust system. An aftermarket downpipe has a larger tubing diameter and less resistive/absent cats. Technically, the same pre-turbo manifold pressure would net higher turbine speed with an aftermarket downpipe, as the heated gasses have much more room to expand, and a much less resistive path to travel post turbo. Obviously there's way more to turbo dynamics than that, but that's how I look at it.

That's almost at an MTBwrench's/Flinkly's Outback level of dirty. Props, that takes some effort!

I have come to the point of acceptance.

Sadly, I'm sure roughly half of us on here, especially wagon owners, can attest to that statement.

HEY. it's not too many rebuilds. It's only three. Okay guys, I'll revise: VISUALLY I may have the least hooked up wagon. Mechanically.... not so much. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I believe I may own the least "hooked up" wagon on here! Nevertheless, I shall post whore.

Approaching WRX USA status I see. Nonetheless that's an awesome find!

Damn near same setup I have, except I have 55 profile DWS06. You're gonna absolutely love the handling for a daily driver.

I lack comprehension abilities sometimes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've used a large object in the flex plate every time I needed to torque/remove the crank pulley or flex plate itself. The flex plate's sole purpose is to handle torque applied at the TC mounting tabs. Jamming in a screwdriver won't kill it. That being said, jamming a small object in there and proceeding to ram the pulley home with your 1/2" impact is most likely not the best idea. Slow and easy hand torque from a ratchet is perfect.

How did you change the solenoid? From what I've heard the electronics(save for the external harness) are not serviceable units. Perhaps there's a chance that even though you've changed the faulty solenoid, there is still an underlying problem?

FWIW regarding oil consumption: Mine ate a lot of oil and misfired quite a bit till about 1000 miles. After my dyno tune at 1200 miles it completely stopped. It hasn't eaten a drop since, granted I'm only at about 3300 miles. Perhaps you need to give it some beans and seal those rings up? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Would definitely buy, given I can afford it. I'll be tuning for E85 this spring, anyways! 2005.5 OBXT, 5EAT Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I believe the new IAG version is also a true air oil separator, and not a catch can. They've put a baffling system and drain in the bottom now. I personally(having not done a ton of research into the subject) do not like the idea of a catch can for a daily driver. It's another maintenance point to have to look after, and one that has the ability to do some damage as well if not taken care of properly. The glory of an AOS, IMO, is that it's a fully recirculating system. You install it and let it be. I also like that the IAG and Crawford models are heated, as that will work wonders when its 0° outside. (Granted, a catch can probably won't fill up too quickly unless you're tracking the car.)

Good ole Idemitsu, right perfect at the full line. Maybe 400 miles on it. What's weird was my old trans NEVER did that, until after my engine rebuild. What's even weirder is that the new trans does the SAME thing. It's gotta be TCU related... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I've got a crazy shift shock when slowing to a stop. It happens at 20mph guaranteed every time; loud clank and the whole car jerks. The behavior started after my rebuild(no battery for ~3 months), and is still completely there with my new trans as well. I'm guessing it's TCU, time for a reset? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wait, I'm confused here... do you have an aftermarket radiator?

That really sounds like a cold fluid issue. I'm pretty sure that just cruising around in frigid temps(even bypassing the air-liquid cooler), lack of the liquid-liquid heat exchange in the radiator could cause your trans to never reach a good enough operating temp. In cold temps, the radiator actually heats the ATF and helps keep it at operating temp. You'd be surprised how little heat is made otherwise, unless you're pushing it hard.

That would be correct. The harness passes into the case and connects to the VB. Problem is, the speed sensor is connected to that harness, and despite t being fully removable, is not sold separately... (which you already know) The problem is, all my searching has led to nothing, mostly due to lack of Subarus in junkyards in my area haha. I was hoping to not make this a three week project... because with my rental costing $33 a day, after a week and a half I could just buy the damn harness and come out cheaper anyways. Ah well, ''tis the name of the game. I've got a few yards checking for me, hopefully something comes up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I figured... too bad a junk 5EAT is impossible to come by in these parts! I've called a few Subaru specific yards, but nobody has junk cores with sensors still in them! If it's not one thing it's another with this damn wagon. Looks like it's a $400 harness or bust.

Does anyone know of a way I can get a turbine speed sensor without buying a $350 harness? The shop cracked them on both transmissions... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk