MTBwrench

I don't post in this thread often, nor have I 3d printed enough to be as awesome as you guys, but a big +1 for inventor. I use it primarily for my 3D print projects. The GUI is damn near perfect for it! *I get Inventor Professional for free, as a student.

I guarantee you if you had a cool pre/post core air temp setup you would notice that it recovers quicker from heat soak and cools more efficiently at speed. But considering the boost and power levels the stock top mount is actually efficient for, it's probably not too noticeable. I keep my cover on to keep the salt/water from soaking my engine bay.

Mad respect for that woman. Damn right you should keep her, I'm jelly. Hope to find myself a girl like that one day! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So let me get this straight... You're wife dailys and Evo because she hates mini vans? In fact, she prefers a manual trans, and a vehicle that can handle itself at speed? AND she went to AutoX school?!?!?! If you ever get divorced hit me up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

^I concur with both those statements. Paint them silver, it'll look fantastic. And yeah, just rotors. I had to trim the from first shields, rears were fine. I figured this would end up happening. just wait till you get them on, it'll be like a whole new wagon. Mine sure felt that way. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'll happily sacrifice wheel/tire package savings for this. I have 5 E85 stations between my commute to school and work. I would LOVE support for my Outback. Come on COBB. DO IT!

I've got to admit, after following this thread and knowing of the issues in our LGT factory maps... what the hell is Subaru doing with their tunes? Quite disappointing that a 4 cylinder N/A, not too expensive, Japanese wagon needs 93 AKI gas to keep from knockin' on heaven's door. At least, that's my opinion. Because you know 80% of the people that buy these are putting regular and mid grade into them.

1) Downpipe gasket 2) up-pipe gaskets, top and bottom if changing up pipe, top only if just swapping turbo. 3) exhaust manifold gaskets, if you install a new up-pipe 4) oil drain hose for bottom of turbo, and worm clamps 5)upper and lower coolant lines. Might be a good time to swap those if they're old! 6) new turbo to TMIC gasket That's all the stuff I changed when I did mine. I chose Grimmspeed double thickness MLS for the up-pipe connections, and perms seal MLS for everything else. I also sprayed everything with Permatex copper gasket spray. The hoses you'll want OEM. That's about it! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh, and another suggestion(although it pains me to recommend a product from CRC, because they price gouge the sh*t out of US shops): The Vitus Sentier VR http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/vitus-bikes-sentier-vr-hardtail-frame-2015/rp-prod125552?utm_source=pinkbike_monthly_deals&utm_medium=product&utm_campaign=prod125552

Yeah, that's always been my complaint about steel frames. My other bike is one of the stiffest/lightest alloy frames out there; an M5 Stumpjumper with an 80mm fork... So anything feels "wiggly" to me at this point! My favorite test of fortitude is holding the bike and pushing the BB sideways with your foot. The surly's BB flexes a good bit, the Stumpjumper just remains rigid and starts flexing the wheels BUT, the Surly is definitely 100 times more fun. Slower and less efficient, but a slack 140mm hardtail is just an awesome experience. I was looking at this for the longest time... I was also looking at offerings from Chromag, Production Privee, Ragley, and Transition. The On One wins by a Kentucky mile with that price tag, but the one thing that struck me was the long-ish chainstays and head tube angle. The region I live in has a lot of tight and twisty singletrack, so a 65.5° head angle just isn't practical. The Surly has stays that are 20mm shorter, and a 67.5° head angle, which helps tight turning etc. I do love the short head tubes on the 456 Evo frames though! They help make it nice and snappy. If you have the cash, try it! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Drew888, did you ever find a fork? Just curious! I just picked up a sweet new steed; Surly Instigator 2.0. Got rid of the road bike and decided a low slung, long travel hardtail was what I needed. So far I'm absolutely amazed! I really missed the 26" wheel size and 26x3" (basically a downhill tire) on 50mm rims, all combined with a steel 140mm travel hardtail is a feeling you just have to experience to believe. It came with a full SLX group, but I've since upgraded to a Saint M820 shifter, XT Cassette, XTR chain, and added Truvativ AKA post and Boobar 740mm bars. Next on the list is the new generation Fox 34 150mm... or a Pike(SRAM will sell me the pike WAY cheaper) The 32 isn't bad but for what this will see I could probably use the rigidity. I also ordered a zero setback post by accident... so I need to fix that too.

IMO you're definitely right about the tires. Looks much tougher now. But I also despise stretched rubber, so my opinion is biased!

I live not ten minutes from there. I actually went to high school in LaGrange! That makes two people that can meet haha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Look who jumped on the build thread wagon! Glad to see you're finally documenting everything, I had no idea you were running forged internals. Props to you, sir. Still really liking your suspension. Any rub as it sits now? That looks really close to where mine sits, maybe .5" lower.

I can safely say that deleting my TGVs made no real impact on my intake noises. The only negative effect it had on the engine was a slightly wandering idle in cold temperatures during warm up. How liberal were you with the epoxy on the bolts? I quite literally drowned mine in JB weld, and then used a dremel with a stone to remove the excess when it cured. Edit: Also, CF wrapped TGVs are good for at least 32.7hp. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just saw this! The 32 Float? For $299 that's not too horrid, but you can find a newer Rockshox Reba for less. My brand spanking new Dual-Air Reba RLT (2012) cost me $325 from Jenson, purchased in 2013. The only thing that scares me about that Fox is the "no maintenance history".. AKA it could have 7 seasons on it and never have been rebuilt and yeah it holds air and oil great but its packed up, the damper is f*cked, etc... Basically, its a gamble. If it's actually maintained, it'll be a fantastic fork. If not... you may have a $300 paperweight. OR... you can get it rebuild, at least a $100 cost, at which point you can buy a new Reba RL. I'm gonna do some fork searching for you. Edit: Take a gander at these: 1) Reba RL http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Take-Off-29-Rock-Shox-Reba-RL-100mm-Solo-Air-Mountain-Bike-Suspension-Fork-/252184745661?hash=item3ab761d6bd:g:E4oAAOSwt6ZWVOqe *Nevermind, we're looking for 26" aren't we? Those will be more expensive in the used market because they're rare.* 2) Can you use a tapered steerer? If you can, this i sa great option. Just buy a $30 rebuild kit, service it, and you're golden. The older dual-air springs were significantly better than the new solo-air stuff, IMO. http://www.ebay.com/itm/RockShox-Reba-RLT-Mountain-Bike-Fork-26-9mm-QR-Tapered-100mm-Disc-Dual-Air-/401029154657?hash=item5d5f334761:g:IHIAAOSwI-BWQnYw 3) Also tapered, but a screaming deal! http://www.ebay.com/itm/ROCK-SHOX-REBA-RL-26-Tapered-QR-Dual-Air-MTB-Bike-Suspension-Fork-Remote-NEW-/381470602236?hash=item58d16b73fc:g:guMAAOSwIwhWTTKn Edit#2: Wow... it's near impossible to find a 26" straight steerer air fork...

You would be correct, ten years in the making. I've worked in a few shops here and there... Get the Marzocci parts while you can, as soon as news hit that Tenneco was going under all my distributors sold out of a lot of things quick... Sad to see them go, they made some amazing stuff, and had by far the most adjustable and tunable dampers I've ever seen. Sad to see them go, but it's not the first time they've been in plunder... After their last financial explosion a lot of companies stopped supporting them because of their instability, and their customer market was reduced to nostalgic older riders, a small OEM market, and their uber high end World Cup teams. (BTW their suspension tuning specialists are probably the most skilled people you'll ever see, I've never seen someone adjust various shim stacks with such diligence, from simply watching the fork as a rider blew by) However, the days of small production, uber high end suspension are returning in the form of DVO and BOS's offerings. Still not as cool as Marzocci was though Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's a toss up for me, RS fork had more adjustability, but 30mm stanctions, the Manitou has a less fantastic damper, but 32mm stanctions... If you're a heavier guy then the manitou may be the answer. ...but that all depends on whether coil kits are available for the manitou, because if you're over 215lb, they'll both probably be undersprung for aggressive riding. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The XC32 is gonna be lightyears better than anything else listed there. While the other few were really good in their day, they're dated now, and most importantly, much harder to service now due to lack of parts availability. Rockshox has/is going to stop supplying service outta for those forks. And most of them I see come in are so beat up in the stanctions they're not even worth it. The Fox forks are probably still serviceable, but that service will come at a costly premium, and Fox forks have a much shorter service interval, so unless it's perfectly maintained I would skip it. Get the XC32. The soloair damper is perfect for re-entry into biking, the Motion control damper is well dialed for XC use, and most importantly: In a season or two when it needs a rebuild you can easily service it, by yourself! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nah, the turtle wax kit just has sanding pads, lubricant, and a finishing polish I believe. I tried one two years back on my old truck, the headlights were foggy again in a week...

I just bought me one of these recently! I have it installed but not wired. When I follow the instructions for the fuse tap, I get a weird TCU communication error, every time I install the tap... Maybe a weird 5EAT issue? Either way, looking for other places to grab a positive power source, has anyone else taken an alternate route? Edit: Decided to man up and do some electrical research. Plugging into fuse for the headlight relays with a defuse tap worked perfect!

Really surprised at how that N/A motor's stock tune is just not having it with mid grade gas. It really makes me question the health and longevity of vehicles with the PZEV tune flashed...

Alright, well thanks to you sir, I have one on order! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'll just add this to the list... I'm on a drivetrain/suspension slop eliminating kick after how much better the Rallitek trans mount made the entire car feel. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I might as well contribute I recently purchased the iSimple ISFM22 Bluetooth FM modulator listed in the idea links. Fantastic addition to the stock head unit! HOWEVER: what many don't know is that the stock antenna connection on our cars is a proprietary OEM connector. A set of adapters is required to convert the antenna from OEM to aftermarket, and then back again after the modulator to plug into the head unit. This pair is the best deal: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Metra-40-SB30-Antenna-Adapter-Modulator/dp/B000K53QBA]Amazon.com : Metra 40-SB30 Antenna Adapter for Subaru FM Modulator : Vehicle Audio Video Antennas : Car Electronics[/ame]