MTBwrench

No way, most my family is from there. Mom grew up on 31st and Wells. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Sam here in Chicago. Foresters and Outbacks are a dime a dozen, Imprezas are starting to be the same. I have only ever seen two other Legacy GT's, and one other Outback XT. Chicago people are more of the domestic crossover/Honda econobox folk.

Let's keep discussion on topic everyone. This thread is to indicate interest in the possibility of a COBB developed Flex-Fuel solution. Debates regarding it's viability and profitability can be started and contained within the Turbo Powertrains and Tuning sub-forums.

Feel free to torch them, I doubt the diff will heat soak enough for it to be a problem. That being said, I wouldn't torching them will make a difference. It's pretty common to have cut out toe bolts in these cars. I ended up having to use a dremel and about half a dozen cutoff wheels to get the damn thing off. It was a mess of a four hour ordeal. On the bright side, replacement bolts from the dealer are about $20!

Wow, that thing really is coming along nicely. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

There's no way you can fit a 55 profile tire under these things without a lot of camber. When I put my stock tires on for winter, I need to crank the rears out to 2.25 degrees of camber to keep the sidewalls from rubbing the fender liners. Up front isn't too bad, though. When I have my 245/45/17's on for summer I run -1.75 camber/0 toe in the front and -1.5 camber/+0.25 toe in the back. I've never rubbed with that setup. I'm really just too afraid to do fender work, I would love to get a 17x8.5 wheel with a 45 offset and put 245/45's on that... but I'm not super into trimming my flares and cutting/rolling my fenders. My wagon sees to much water and salt for that.

Wow... wheels really changed the whole attitude of your wagon. I like!

Wow.. must be wheel season huh? My rear wheel just got back from an extended stay at the Chris King ER. My hub (a 3 year old ISO) kept slipping for seemingly no reason. It was very unpredictable and no amount of rebuilding and servicing would fix the issue... I finally gave up when it slipped at a very bad time.... sprinting in gravel. Cracked a helmet, lots of road rash, tore my palm right open. Good on them though. They ultimately decided it was a manufacturing defect in the drive rings and replaced everything except for the hub shell, axle, and non-drive bearing. I have never seen a manufacturer go to such great(re: expensive) lengths in a warranty situation like that. I was already a lifetime customer of their, but that solidified it! On another note: Specialized just came out with a new alloy XC bike. It's called the chisel. It's geared towards the NACA crowd... aka me. Frameset is very affordable, and the complete builds are as well. I may give it a shot. I really would rather leave my current bike in tact, and buy the Expert model(I love the frame color as well) but $1850 is still $1850. I'm hoping to get to demo one soon. I'd love to see if this bike can prove to me that thru-axles can actually make an XC bike stiffer as I still have yet to ride a frame that proves such. The slack head angle and steep seat tube make me sad face though, usually that makes the front end feel pretty "numb".

I actually do have a modified valve body. At this power level, my old trans only lasted a month before 3-5th started slipping bad and eventually the center diff ate itself. I got in touch with Dave, and after a bit of talking we realized I was fully capable of modifying the VB myself. So I bought the TransGo kit and gave it a go. I can't thank him enough for all his help, and for that sweet walkthrough he wrote. I also have a set of his bulletproof diff bearings sitting on my bench... I'm really lamenting that one. An ATF cooler is in the works. I had a small cooler on there, but have now removed it as I'm done with track/autocross for the season(financially! lol). One of my "next year" plans is a thermostat regulated external ATF cooler and an aluminum radiator as well. I may very well venture into adding a small external oil cooler as well, in the name of safety, which would only be plumbed during the summer. Regarding power: My initial plan was to eventually run ethanol thanks to it's proximity and accessibility in my area. I'm sure I'd be at or above 300 hp/tq at that point... but the rest of the car still needs work before I put more money into power modifications. I really want to get my suspension/bracing fully sorted and ideally get a beefier Fuel pump/regulator/damper setup before I start down all that road, since all of those fueling changes will require a re-tune anywho. In the end, it really just comes down to the fact that all of this gets very expensive after a certain point when you're trying to do things properly, so I'm working on a long term basis.

Just checking back with a little one year update. Wagon still runs well, very well in fact. Boost peaks between 17-18psi depending on how cool temps are, injector duty cycle tops out around 67% in colder temps, with AFR's in the low to mid 10's depending on load and engine speed. This tune is by far the best, and most well developed, that I have ever had on the wagon. Can't thank graham enough. A realistic reference 1/4 mile time for a VF52 setup on a limited 5EAT wagon on an 85 degree day, brake boosting to 1200rpm to take slack out of the drivetrain. I was the right lane, and a stage 2 2016 WRX in the left launching HARD to try and avoid the shame: Another thing I've noticed: The wagon really doesn't feel fast and punch below highways speeds anymore. I think it's a combination of more turbo lag, and relative power at lower speeds vs higher speeds. My VF46 punched very hard early on, and held till redline, but started choking at higher speeds. My current setup *seemingly* has just as much power available powering down a straight at 100mph as it does playing racecar on backroads at half the speed. I really appreciate the linear powerband I've got.

It looks like even the car itself is having fun. *Boots n pants n boots n pants n boots n pants* Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Reminds me so much of mine before I lowered it. GRP 5EAT wagons don't show up too much. Welcome!

If I had the time and money, I'd invest in the proper measurement/assembly tools, read up, and do it on my own. I'd probably try and put in a limited slip front too(if I could afford; they're not cheap obviously), then a cusco 1.5 way in the rear. Because racewagon. If there's one thing I've learned, it's that rebuilding mechanical things properly requires a little bit of comprehension, and a lot of attention. If you're like me. That means measure 7 times, assemble once.

I see many are saying LGT and OBXT will work... But what about final drive? I understand that's diff related, but don't the front and rear differentials have to be the same ratio? Unless LGT and OBXT use the same rear diff and final drive is determined by another factor? Just playing devil's advocate Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Replace your cam sensor and take it from there. Engine should still run fine if there's a trans issue(unless that issue is with the converter). See my response in your thread.

True, a 5MT limited is extra delicious. That's the EDM shifter trim, which i think looks fantastic as well. Way better than our square stuff.

Just stumbled across this, it's coming along nicely! I had no idea they made a 2.0D Outback. That's pretty cool. How many km/L does something like this get?

I went out with a photography friend of mine last night(who is significantly better/more professional than I am with my measly D90) and practived painting with light. This was a 30 second exposure at 3:00 am in the middle of nowhere. I couldn't see my tripod from two feet away! (Also, I think the stock wheels looked kind of okay here)

Yay, another GRP wagon!!! Those wheels... (though I like the 18" variant a little more)

I still only have ~260hp, and a 5EAT. So yes, but not by very much.

Looks like we're #Twinning

I "built" my 5EAT myself. I bought a 40k mile trans from a stock OBXT, and installed a TransGo RER505A valve body kit (very close to what ClimberD does), and I have the brass diff bushings as well. It currently holds 266hp just fine, but I'm really not sure how much further I would push it. Locally here, I've seen a lot of stock 5EAT's hold 300hp... but they all fail the same way (clutches and diffs) eventually. My last 5EAT blew it's diff at my current power level, and at that point 5th and 4th clutch packs were almost done too. I suppose it really depends on how you drive it. I track/auto-x my car, so I wouldn't trust it much above 300hp. For a daily driver that just gets played with every once in a while... maybe. That being said, the IP&T big builds and ClimberD rebuilds were holding quite a bit of power at one point. I have no idea regarding their current states. However, I believe that fragile center diff will always be the weak point, regardless of what you do those planets inside are just too fragile. Bottom line: you gotta pay hard to play hard, especially with a 5EAT.

Looking forward to seeing it! Now that BarManBean parted out his OBXT, I think I might be one of the last(if only) active GRP Outback owners on here. Also, if you haven't noticed the trend on here yet... most of us end up putting spacers in the rear once we get the suspension on and it settles. Anywhere from 0.5" all the way up to 1.25" to get things level.

I put the stock wheels/tires back on and attempted to make it look good... results were meh. I still love the way it looks in person though. I see a set of white Sparco Terras in my future.