BrandonspecB

After thinking about this a bit more I think the biggest downside of the OE EGT is you don't know which cylinder is hottest. Even if you figure out the temp drop, is the hottest cylinder 50, 100, 150F degrees hotter than the average reading?

I guess to answer your original question, you can use the OE sensor, but you'll have to figure out what is a safe temp and what isn't. Some diesels have their EGT probe after the turbine. Just have to figure out how much temp is lost from the port to figure out what is going to be safe on the gauge. Those trucks have figured it out and have it marked on the gauge for you. I think getting the aftermarket gauge installed and close to the port is going to be the best since then there's no guessing. Then you can use the gauge to see how much temp is lost going to the OE sensor.

I don't know if I'm an expert with this stuff, but what I do have is some data. The graph posted is from the pull done in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZhFoi6puBUs This is a very, very safe tune that is basically a failsafe tune that the ECU will revert to if a failsafe is tripped. You can see where the launch control is active how the EGT isn't very high which I always thought it would be with how retarded the timing is. -5 degrees to get combustion to happen later and spool the turbo, which it does. The pops are the wastegates opening. One thing that I've always heard is that retarding timing will increase EGT, which I have found to be true, except in the instance of the launch control. While dialing in my knock sensors I backed the timing way off and saw 1500F at the top of a 3rd gear pull. This would have been much hotter if I had done a 1-4th gear pull. I'm going through a bunch of logs trying to find a good comparison with different timing to show the difference in EGT. I have also heard that you can't just use EGT to tune timing. It was a video by HP Academy that explained why, but I can't remember the specifics.

So I was comparing a recent pull I did with the EZ to some old, old pulls I have from different setups I've had over the years. I didn't rev the pull all the way out, but this should give you an idea of how a big turbo EZ responds compared to different EJ setups. Different setups are: Stage 1 15 psi on pump gas. This was just a tune only. 16g 22 psi with meth injection, stock engine. 20g 24 psi with meth injection, stock engine. Forced Performance 62mm 3586HTZ 34 psi with meth injection. Built engine, GSC S2 cams. All the mods. The final iteration of my EJ before it broke.

It would be fun, but I think I'll let others chase the 1k mark. If I land somewhere between 600-700 whp I will be happy. I guess I should add I want 600-700 uncorrected whp. None of this go to the dyno and get a big number from the 20% they add due to the elevation. I want a legit 600-700 at this elevation. I sent in an oil sample for analysis and if it comes back good I'm going to start spraying the meth and turning the boost up. Last oil change there was no metal in the filter, so things are looking good. Also, I was under the car today doing some work and was taking a look at the oil pan. It seems like the pan might have been damaged at some point because it has a slight bend in it running right under where the pickup goes. I'm thinking this is why there was so little clearance. I initially checked the pan, but you have to look close because all the edges are flat. Anyways, won't hurt to check the clearance if you're building an EZ. It's easy enough to do.

This video gives me hope.

Beautiful build.

I'm really pissed about this damn recall. I took the car in there with everything removed except the dash and gauge cluster. I mean, no radio, no glove box, no center console. This was back when I was using the Hydra. Figure I'd make it really easy on them so they couldn't screw any of my stuff up. There's only one damn screw holding the gauge cluster in and they didn't put it back. They just shoved the cluster in as far as they could. I was driving home and the cluster flopped over. And then I get a notice saying they didn't write down something off the new airbag and I have to take the car back. I keep getting notices and I'm really tempted to call them and tell them to go to hell. It's got a new airbag in it and I don't give a damn if they wrote down the number off it. They aren't touching my car again.

Yes, no one else touches my cars. I just street tune mine and track tuned a few friend's drift cars. I did dyno tune another friend's drift car a few years ago. His boss has his own dyno that we got to use. I've been trying to get him to let me use it on occasion. Friends's twin turbo 6.0 240SX I dyno tuned Vid of 240 drifting Friends's Merkur drift car I tuned Long video of friend's LS1 FC RX7 drift car I tuned I'm the odd one. I like drag racing.

Been doing some cold start tuning. Got a quick cold start and idle clip. 30F coolant temps. Got a bit of oscillation at first, but starts just as fast as warm. Still more work to do... Cold Start and Idle Video

I just don't think it's necessary to go through every circuit on the car and test for a power draw when there is a big power draw coming from the main relay. The B136 23 terminal should not be grounded when the ignition is off. But it is, which is activating the main relay and is sending power to a lot of components that shouldn't have power when the ignition is off. The ECU isn't working like it's supposed to. The switch is taking control of that wire away from the ECU, so there isn't a power draw when the ignition is off. That same wire is the one I cut and gave to the Haltech to control the main relay for my EZ30 swap. It should only ground when the ECU gets an ignition switch signal. This is why I think there is something wrong with the ECU. One thing I worry about is what caused the ECU to act this way? Was it just a freak accident or did something short out at one point or maybe a back feed? Would the same thing happen to a new ECU? If it were me, since I have a spare ECU, I would throw it in there and see if it fixes it. If the spare gets fried...well, then I'd throw a relay in and forget about it.

I'm thinking that relay is good. To test it further just put your hand on it and feel if it clicks on and off. I'm betting the initial diagnosis of the ECU being bad is correct and the shop did a work around with the switch to avoid replacing it. I'm thinking your options to get rid of the switch and return back to normal functionality would be to get a new ECU or do as Dave said and replace that switch with a relay. Have the relay triggered by an ignition source and close that ground wire to the ECU. Or rather than going to the ECU you could just have it ground to the chassis. This is what the ECU is doing anyways (more likely the ECU ground goes up to the block.) Either way would trigger the main relay only when the ignition is turned on, just like stock.

That's a cool site. Definitely come in handy. Have you found a source or part number for EDM HID headlights?

Could be. It's a big brown relay located to the right of the glove box if I remember right. Turn key on, flip switch on and off and see if it clicks. I forgot that the fuel injectors have metal covers that are a pain to remove. My engines don't have them, so injectors are really easy to access. How about the MAF sensor. Should be a yellow/blue stripe wire that receives power from that relay. For the record, after looking over the schematic, the coils don't receive power from the main relay.

Got a package I've been eagerly waiting for. Since I won't be using fog lights I wanted to get some covers for the JDM bumper. The only ones I could find came on European cars. I was able to find a part number through opposed forces and found a place in Germany that could get them for me.

Cool stuff.

So that wire is the ECU ground control for the main engine control relay. The ECU will ground that wire which closes the contacts in the relay and sends power to the ECU, the coils, injectors, DBW throttle relay and some other stuff which I can't remember off hand. You can see where it sends power to if you follow E, G and H on the sides of that schematic. So I can see putting a switch in that wire as a type of manual anti theft device or, if the ECU really isn't working properly, then perhaps something in the ECU is fried causing that wire to be grounded permanently. That would send power to the engine even without the key in the ignition. You can try closing the switch with the key off and checking for power at an injector connector. If you get 12v then the ECU is activating that relay when it isn't supposed to. If you don't get 12v, but then turn the igntion on and then get 12v I'd say it's operating how it's supposed to and you could get rid of the switch entirely. Hopefully this helps out somewhat.

Nope.

I always thought it resembled the GTR hood. I found an aluminum one at a junkyard for $35! Couldn't pass it up.

I haven't driven it at night yet, but I can definitely tell they are brighter when I was adjusting them in the shop. I'm going to get a set for the daily as well. Well worth the money.

Alright got the goodies installed. Just a regular JDM Legacy bumper, Outback hood, JDM HID headlights, and STI lip spoiler. Big shoutout to AW4BYT for his headlight wiring harness. Made the install super easy. I also have some folding mirrors that I'll be installing once the switch panel shows up for it. It looks good in the pics, but I made some serious mistakes in the hood. Bumper is perfect though. I'm not too worried about it because I plan on respraying the whole car next year some time. This was good practice spraying a dark metallic, which I've never done before. Got a rear bumper on the way that will give me more practice.

Just a little teaser for tomorrow.

Did an oil change today and put in a new oil pickup since I feel like I took just a hair too much off the other one. I got some pictures showing how close the pickup sits to the pan. The stock pickup damn near touches the oil pan. Maybe 1/16"-3/32" clearance at most. This is way too little. I cut off just under the crimp in the pickup and that is pretty close to 3/8" clearance. Everything I've ever read has said you want 1/4" to 3/8" clearance so as not to restrict the oil pump.

Got more of a technical update rather than a picture update. Although I do have some JDM bits on the way, so I will have some cool pics to show off in the next month or so. Nothing crazy, just getting rid of the hideous US bumpers and doing something different with the hood. I've been controlling the VVL by switching the solenoids on/off at different points. I've been using the Haltech switched cam control function to do this. This function is 100% on or 100% off, no in between. Well, I found an article that goes into detail on how the factory Subaru ECU controls the VVL. Rather than switching the solenoids between 100% on/off, they control the oil pressure to the lifters by pulsing the solenoids. This makes sense since the VVL solenoids are pretty much identical to the AVCS solenoids. This shows how versatile the Haltech is. I changed my VVL outputs from the switched cam control to generic, set them up to be controlled with duty cycle from a table and simulated how the factory ECU controls the lifters in the table. Hopefully this is helpful for anybody else setting up an EZ30.

135 mph trap speed with a good launch and shifts should easily be a 10 second pass.