BrandonspecB

You need to drive it and build some boost. At work we have a pressure gauge with a hose long enough that we can tape the gauge to the windshield and then go for a drive. Your base fuel pressure with the vacuum line unplugged should be around 43 psi. For every pound of boost you should see one pound of fuel pressure over 43 psi. So, at 7 psi boost your fuel pressure should be 50 psi. At 15 psi boost you should have 58 psi fuel pressure, etc.

Is your front o2 in the stock location? The exhaust pressure there is too high to get an accurate reading under boost. The only way you can use the front o2 sensor to tune is if you move it after the turbo. You really need a wideband. Your tuner should know this. The front o2 is only used for fuel control during idling and cruise. As soon as you step on it, the ECU goes into open loop mode and ignores the o2 sensor feedback. The WOT AFR is completely dependent on the fuel flow and air flow calibration. There is no correction to it.

It would be very tough to mount the turbos low and not have them be the lowest point of the car. Plus if they're mounted below the oil level you need to put sumps on the turbos and use a scavenge pump to get the oil back to the pan. The only reasonable place I can see to mount twins would be behind the headlights. Do a short 3-1 header on each bank and run a single 2" tube up to each turbine housing. You'd probably have to do fender or hood exit dowpipes because you wouldn't have much room to get them back under the car. The complexity involved is why I've never been a fan of twins. A friend of mine put twins on his LS powered 240SX. I tried to talk him into a single, but he didn't want to do it. He had so many fitment and oiling issues that would have been easily resolved with a single.

Not sure if it's a good example, but here's this crazy guy's build: Turbo 3.0

What mods are you doing?

The injectors see the max power of the pump. The regulator is after the fuel injectors.

The feed line is the correct location. You want to measure fuel pressure upstream of the regulator. Fuel pressure after the regulator means nothing.

Check out Metric Motors in Centerville. They've built three of my engines and quite a few cylinder heads. They know Subarus.

I haven't had any. I ran a Tial MVR for a 4-5 years or so up over 30 psi and it always worked great. Now I'm using two Tial MVSs and I haven't had any problems with them, but I'm not running much boost.

You have it right. With manifold vacuum, the PCV check valve is open and drawing air from the turbo inlet, through the breathers into the crankcase, and into the intake manifold so the crankcase vapors can be burned. With manifold boost, the PCV valve closes and all crankcase blowby goes from the valve covers into the turbo inlet to be burned by the engine. Your dual can setup is correct. Just make sure the can on the PCV side is between the crankcase and the PCV valve. Here's a good article that may have you rethinking your setup: https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/quick-tech-the-benefits-of-lowering-crankcase-pressure-part-1/ Good luck with your build!

Yeah they leak past the guide and valve stem. There needs to be clearance there so the valve will open and close. The clearance will tighten up when things get hot and it won't leak as much.

Cut out the slots in my foglight cover to get some outside air into the air filter. Made a video of a 2nd-4th gear flyby: Flyby Vid

Got a few more things done. Got all the sensors wired and hooked up to the Hydra. I also got some new gauges. The Innovate gauges I was using before don't have a 5v output for the oil pressure gauge, so I couldn't log it. I couldn't have mismatched gauges, so I replaced them all with AEM X-series gauges. All X-series have a 5v output. I also got a Summit Racing clock gauge, since the factory clock doesn't work with the Hydra. I was watching Gale Banks' series on Youtube called Killing a Duramax and he made me feel pretty stupid for having my air filter in the engine bay. So I took some spare tubing I had and stuck the filter down in the bumper.

A lot of it depends on when you have your fans set to come on. I have both of them set to come on high speed at 195. They run until 190 and turn off. This is just my personal preference. Cooler engines aren't as prone to detonation. If I were to go run the car around the track or up a canyon it would definitely get hotter. I'm not exactly sure about how the factory settings work, but the lowest setting is 195 and the highest is 215. I'm guessing they start one fan on low at 195 and have both on high by 215? Not too sure. When I was using the factory ECU I set all of them 5 degrees lower and left it at that.

Those tic bolts are the best thing ever made.

Ouch.

Wow, cool! I'm really lucky that my work considers after hour shop use by maintenance personnel a benefit. We can use the tools and lift so long as we bring our own supplies. Turns out the Mishimoto fans are a let down. Still had issues cooling with them. I was a little worried when I saw how small the blades are on them, but figured I'd give them a shot. I decided to throw a hail Mary and try and get the stock fans to fit. Turns out they fit ok. I just had to grind down the shroud in a few places and make sure the hoses and fan wires don't get hit by the blades. There's maybe 1/16" clearance between the engine in some spots, but they cool damn good! Temps never go over 195.

Yeah, industrial maintenance.

Well, pretty much everything but engine machine work and assembly. I have assembled engines for my job, but we have a really good Subaru machine shop here, Metric Motors, and I let them do all that work because they're good at it. I'm a maintenance tech during the day, so I have to be a bit of a jack of all trades when it comes to mechanical things. I also have some very skilled coworkers that have taught me quite a bit over the years. I've been tuning cars for 11 years now. I pretty much just tune my own stuff, but I have helped a few friends out over the years.

Anyone in particular?

Haha, I'll get some videos and stuff made up. Cooler weather is around the corner, so I'll feel better pushing the car harder. I plan on taking a trip this winter to Phoenix to see a friend and I'll probably head to the drag strip there and get some time slips and video. Our track closed down last year I didn't even know they had a radiator setup like that. That's a lot of damn cooling! Honestly, if I hadn't already bought this new setup, running a smaller aux radiator would have probably been cheaper and taken up less space. The heater core was able to pull enough heat out to keep temps stable, so I imagine a small radiator behind where the fog lights go would have kept temps in check and not cook me in the cabin.

Never a real dyno. I always make a pump gas tune. Seems like all of them ended up around 20 psi and virtual dyno put them around 400 whp. I never really pushed them though. That will make things pretty easy. Next time you have the turbo off give it a little twist towards the passenger side and see how it sits. You probably just have to chop the top flange off, get the new flange level, and weld it on. That's a good looking setup and sounds like it performed really good too.

Got some AEM 0-5v pressure sensors so I can datalog coolant and crankcase pressure. I want to get some failsafes setup based off that info. Been having some issues with the engine running hot. This car doesn't have A/C, which isn't too big of a deal for me, but having to run the heater to keep temps in check when it's 95 out gets old real fast. Something I found interesting is the 3.0 has the same 5/8" single row radiator core as the 2.5. Almost 20% larger engine, but same size radiator. There are no aftermarket, large capacity radiators for the 3.0, which means I had to rig up my own. I started with a Mishimoto X-Line for the 2008+ STI. This is the same radiator that drops right into an LGT with a 2.5. The new radiator has a 2" 3 row core. With that radiator the stock fans and shrouds won't fit. Luckily Mishimoto makes a low profile shroud and fans for this radiator. Aftermarket fans usually don't flow more air than the stockers, but I really didn't have any other choice and these fans are definitely better than no fans. They do move quite a bit of air when they're on high speed. To get this radiator to work I had to cut off the single inlet and weld in two smaller 1-1/4" barb fittings. The info I could find on the 3.0 radiator said the inlets are 1-1/8". I literally could not find any aluminum barb fitting that size, so I bought some 1-1/4" intending to turn them down a bit. I'm glad I checked the fit before I turned them because the 1-1/4" fittings fit perfectly in the radiator hoses. 1-1/8" would have been too small. The passenger side fitting needed to be set in at an angle because that radiator hose wasn't long enough to go straight on. Once the fittings were welded and the radiator installed, all the radiator hoses needed to be trimmed shorter. Then I cut the connector off the factory fans and connected them to the Mishi fans. The red wire on the Mishi fans connects to the blue wire on the factory connector. Even with the slim fans this setup barely fits. I had to trim down the passenger fan to keep it from rubbing on the engine. The factory coolant overflow doesn't fit. Right now I'm using a plastic bottle for the overflow, but I'll make or buy something for a permanent solution. To top it all off I threw on a 1.3 bar Cosworth radiator cap. Gotta have something from Cosworth on the car, right?

It isn't that hard to convert a regular uppipe and downpipe to a rotated one. The first time I built my own I hacked up a stock location uppipe and the Perrin rotated downpipe. It really wasn't too bad. Does your header have the vband connection to the uppipe? Nope it was with meth injection. All my setups have been 91 octane with 50/50 water/methanol.

Full race efr kit? Pricey but high quality with good response.