BrandonspecB

I don't think you have anything to worry about with forged pistons wearing out an engine too soon. A forged engine is going to wear out because of the increased power being made and used by the owner. Build a 600 whp engine and only use 50 of it and it will live forever. Here's a pic of a 40k mile, beat to hell, 500+ whp piston. PTW was 0.0035. Slapped like hell when cold. Pistons and cylinders didn't give 2 shits. The cylinders did care when I tried making 600 whp and didn't have the fuel system for it. Leaned out and detonated so bad it cracked a cylinder and bent a rod. I still have the log from when it happened. Pistons in my current engine slap too. No big deal. I do make sure the engine has some heat in it before I drive it. And I don't push it until oil temp is at least 150F.

Got it from bnrparts on ebay.

I've got some friends that have been wanting me to get the car out on the road course with them. With no power steering it is a handful to try and drive fast through turns. I've been thinking for the last few months how I would go about getting power steering back in the car. I really like how everything is laid out on the engine and didn't want to have to redo the turbo location and intercooler piping to get the OE pump and reservoir installed. I started leaning towards doing an electric pump. It's pretty popular in the drift community. Two of my friends have electric pumps in their drift cars. One has an old MR2 pump and the other has a Volvo pump. I decided to go with a Volvo pump. They come in 2007-2013ish Volvos. The motor is brushless and the reservoir is part of the unit. They pull between 10-20 amps under normal conditions, but can use up to 80 amps if held at lock. Since I "depowered" the rack that is in the car a new rack was needed. The 2015 STI rack was a no brainer. Got one of them on the way. I've added quite a few electrical components to the car and really need to see what kind of amp draw it has with everything turned on at the same time. I'm sort of shooting in the dark here, but figured with the new pump I was going to need a higher output alternator.

Trans has a 3.90 front axle ratio with a 1.1:1 transfer gear. The 1.1:1 transfer requires a 3.54 rear axle ratio to work properly. Same as spec.b ratios this stuff replaced. Wish I had a cool high boost update with some awesome numbers and videos, but I don't. New fuel pump is having issues. Randomly cutting out, even just cruising down the road or idling. I'm in touch with Deatschwerks trying to get it situated. Honestly, the number one thing I have learned the most from working on and racing cars for the last 20 years is patience. It's always something.

It's always the little things that get ya.

So I got a little carried away. I was under the car a few weeks ago and was looking at my leaky rear end () thinking about pulling it to reseal and gasket it when I thought to myself, "how can I have an engine and trans with around 3k miles, but a rear end with 166k?" I got on ebay and found an R180 that didn't have the lowest miles (53k) out of all of them on there, but didn't cost the most either. Now, the only original parts of the drivetrain are the rear axles, driveshaft, and 3 wheel bearings. I didn't know this, but the STI R180 driveshaft flange is bigger. I had to zip off the nut that holds it on and swap flanges.

Fuel pump got here quick! It's a neat little unit. Just a little bit of cutting the factory housing and it fits. Easy install and easy wiring. Quiet too. And it moves fuel! At 100% duty cycle it completely overruns the regulator at idle. At 75% duty cycle at 16 psi boost it overruns the regulator by 6 psi. 60% duty cycle is where it is at right now for WOT. Plenty of headroom. After installing it I took it out to do some pulls and see how it works. First pull, boost comes up to 16 psi, pulls nice and hard and then BAM, rev limiter. Damn fuel pressure failsafe tripped. I pulled over and checked the log and saw fuel pressure was over target now. The failsafe is set for +/- 5 psi of target fuel pressure. Definitely a better problem than not enough pressure. If things go well I plan on getting back to tuning and tinkering this weekend. Hopefully I can get it to 25-26 psi and see how things look.

That's some serious work! Looks good!

You can also check for ABS codes. See if that can shed some light on what's going on.

Yeah you need to drill and tap each runner in the intake manifold. The daily is staying low power. It has a downpipe and that's it. I even lowered the boost a bit on it. I want it to live a long happy life. I've got around $850 in it. But that doesn't include the price of a controller. The best system out there is Aquamist. It's PWM and has built in fail-safes. Very expensive though. Aquamist HFS3 With that kit you still need to add direct port nozzles and a reservoir. That would easily make it over 1k. I think meth injection is a good option if e85 isn't readily available. It's like an octane on demand system. You can keep pump gas range and availability and have detonation resistance only when needed.

Are the ABS modules the same between your car and the parts car? Are all the modules from the same car? Gauge cluster, BIU, ABS, ECU? I'm not an expert at CAN stuff, but when I was buying my standalone I contacted Haltech about CAN compatibility with my car because Haltech is CAN compatible with a 2005 ADM Legacy 3.0. They said it wouldn't work with my car because the CAN addresses have to be figured out for each year and model of car. And they were right. I tried connecting the Haltech to my car's CAN bus and selected the ADM Legacy CAN option and it wouldn't work. No vehicle speed at the ECU, no coolant temp at the gauge cluster, errors in the gauge cluster display.

I have no room on the center console. The switches are really deep too, so it was hard finding a place for them to go. The meth system is one I pieced together. I wanted to do a constant pressure, direct port, pulse width modulated setup. I bought a pump from Snow Performance. I've been using their kits for many years and have never had a pump fail. Pressure is your friend with meth/water injection, so I bought one of their 300 psi pumps. More pressure means better atomization. Direct port means each cylinder gets the same amount of meth. Most systems have a single nozzle that injects upstream of the throttle body. This can easily lead to lean cylinders because fuel injected manifolds aren't designed to evenly flow liquids. The EZ manifold has a 90 degree turn from the throttle body to each cylinder. There's no way each cylinder will get even amounts of meth without direct port. I bought a PWM valve and direct port nozzles from Aquamist. The nozzles have built in check valves that stay shut with manifold vacuum. This is important with a direct port system because without a check valve the manifold vacuum would suck the lines dry. Aquamist's nozzles are works of art. They are compact and easily removable. The valve is controlled by a spare fuel injector output in the ECU. With it being PWM I was able to build a table using RPM and MAP to control the flow of meth to the engine. This is what I spent a lot of time doing over the weekend. I had built a base table that I was sure would flow too much and then trimmed and shaped it until I got the AFR I wanted with the meth system on. Still lots of work to do with it. This setup is far better than the systems that change the output of the pump to control flow. Those systems have low pressure at low flow and high pressure at high flow. Not ideal. A constant pressure system has full pressure all the time and flow is controlled by the valve opening time. This gives you good atomization at all flow levels. By incorporating the meth system into the Haltech I can have the system disable for any reason I want. I installed a pressure switch in the meth line that if the pressure drops below 200 psi the system will disable and revert to pump gas boost and timing maps. If there's excessive knock, disabled. Fuel pressure too low, disabled. EGT too high, disabled. Oil pressure low, oil temp high, air temp high, AFR too lean, etc, etc, etc...disabled. I honestly don't know how I lived without a standalone this capable.

Still using a JDM ECU? Is the pinout the same as the ECU that came in the car? Does your coolant temp gauge work or does it max out?

Interesting build! Each wheel speed signal goes to the ABS unit then vehicle speed is sent out over the CAN to the other modules.

The meth injection system works amazing. Started at 16 psi and got up to 20 psi and I started getting fuel pressure failsafe trips. It's looking like my fuel pump is dying. It can't maintain a constant pressure rise with boost once it reaches around 20 psi. Looking at my fuel pump options I decided to get a DW440. It's their new 440 LPH brushless pump that fits in the factory housing!. It also includes a PWM module that will work great with the Haltech.

Installed a DCCDPro Spiider center diff controller with iWire's plug and play kit. Pretty neat little gadget. DCCD LED Display

Pump gas. Got the meth injection system I'll be turning on this weekend.

A friend just got a 2013 WRX so we went out for a little subi cruise. Had to give him a little wastegate. LOUD!

Here I go with another pickup post. I got another oil pan and pickup and the original pan was definitely flattened. The new pan has a nice angle in it and the old pan doesn't. I had never seen an EZ30 oil pan before and had no idea they have a light bend in them. I measured the pickup clearance with a new pickup and pan and it's a good 1/4" clearance. I still lopped off the bottom of the pickup to reduce the restriction to the pump, but left the screen in place. So far so good with oil pressure. No metal in the oil or pan. Oil analyses have been coming back clean. Last oil change there was nothing in the filter. If the weather is good this weekend I'm going to turn it up.

Looks like there are camshafts available for the EZ30R. They require AVLS delete and DLC coated buckets. And the price... https://www.kelfordcams.com/global/camshafts/subaru/ez30

Yeah, easier to start, but a lower max speed in first.

If you want it it's yours. I've got it up for sale with a 3000 mile pressure plate and clutch disc for $1500. The local subaru guys have been pretty flaky thus far.

Not a huge update, but the car is still running and moving along. Found a smoking deal on a 3000 mile 2020 STI transmission. It was missing the transfer housing, transfer gear, and output shaft. Found the parts I needed and now have a practically new trans with a front LSD and DCCD. I also wanted the shorter 5th gear the STI has. It shifts like butter compared to the original trans. I had to relearn how to drive the car with how smooth it shifts. I also installed a Bosch combined pressure/temp sensor to monitor fuel pressure and temp. Now I have a compensation table setup to adjust fuel based on fuel temp. Just one more thing to keep the fuel in line under all conditions.

$70 shipped Perfect condition. Venmo only. Contact me for payment info.

Yeah, having an average is better than nothing. I mean we tune entire engines based off of average AFR. Just have to keep in mind the limitations when you don't have per cylinder readings and err on the side of safety. I would think that having the manifold in the air stream would probably affect the OE EGT reading, especially in the winter months. The more heat the manifold absorbs and sends off to the atmosphere isn't going to be picked up by the sensor. Makes sense to me. Something you can do is have one EGT bung welded in each tube and then just swap them around until you find the hottest one. It probably will be #4, but I honestly can't say if the EJ25s propensity to break that cylinder will show up as a high EGT reading. Here's a few more graphs of different pulls. Is there a way to upload a pic and then insert it in the actual post? It's such a hassle uploading to image sites and then copying the link. But I like doing that because I feel like I can make easier to follow posts with pictures. Anyways, on all these pulls you need to add 2 psi to get the actual boost pressure. Haltech uses psig so atmospheric pressure at my elevation shows as -2. First one is a 4 psi pull. One of the first pulls I did with the Haltech. This is with the lowest pressure springs in the wastegates. 12.5 AFR and getting up above 20 degrees timing. EGT maxes out around 1150-1200F. This just sort of show what things look like at really low power. Next 2 pulls are both 8 psi, AFR around 11.7 at max RPM. The first one has a more natural timing curve. Timing low, 15, at peak torque and climbs, 19, as VE and torque fall off. EGT maxes between 1180-1240F. The second is just a flat 10 degrees. EGT maxes between 1260-1340F. EGT is closely tied to power output. The more power, the higher they go. At 20 psi I don't think there's any way I could get EGTs down around 1100F. I mean, I probably could by causing misfires, but I'm talking a tune fairly close to optimal for any given boost level. Sort of neat to see this kind of stuff.