BrandonspecB

Who races around town? This is what you pay for: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-q76rVuyU0&app=desktop&persist_app=1

Yeah that's definitely something else to be considered. I could have saved a lot of money by just going rotated, big injectors, and big FMIC from the start. In the time I've had my car I've had 7 different sized turbos, 5 different sets of injectors, 4 different intercooler setups, multiple turbo inlet configurations, two built EJ25s and now a built EZ30. Some people think I have a problem. Here's the stock location 3576 dyno.

I did run the atp gtx3576r for a while. It made around 450 whp. I have a real dyno graph I can post up later. A stock location gen 2 3576r may make 450 on pump. It helps that you're at sea level and have 93 octane. You can see from the virtual dyno graph how big of a difference the full size housings and 4" inlet make for top end power. The stock location stuff chokes the turbo at high airflow/boost. I've never had the spoolinator kit. I really like it though. Sort of bridges the gap between a small housing stock location setup and a complete rotated setup. The biggest issue with rotated is getting everything to fit properly. Coolant tank has to be moved, abs module is in the way, etc. But once you solve those issues it opens up a wide variety of turbos and makes the car easier to work on.

You can make 450 on 93 with a GTX3576R Spoolinator turbo kit from Killer B. There's some threads on Nasioc about the Spoolinator and it seems like a really cool, stock location setup. I think the injectors were in the 900cc range. It's been a while since I had that setup. Nowadays I wouldn't use anything smaller than ID1050Xs for a gas build.

My first rotated setup was taking a stock location ATP GTX3576R, buying the full size Garrett compressor and turbine housings and Perrin rotated up and downpipes. That setup was ok. The Perrin pipes had the turbo tilted too far back and it leaked oil out the turbine housing. I eventually made my own up and downpipe to correct that problem. The only issues were fitment of the intake and compressor outlet pipes. Legacys with VDC have a different ABS module that gets in the way. I eventually relocated it to make more room. Rotating is really only worth it if you want a really big turbo. There are plenty of high flowing, stock location turbos that can make a lot of power. The funnest setup I had on my car was the stock location 3576. It was stealthy, simple, and made good power. The virtual dyno graph is a comparison between those 2 setups. Both were 30 psi tapering to mid 20s with meth injection.

Got a nice, new 3.0 under tray and moved into the modern age with a 3-port EBC. Still at 8 psi. It's been too hot to really do much tuning. I also haven't been too motivated to crank it up because it's been pretty fun the way it is now.

The 1.03 A/R housing ended up being laggier than I wanted. Bought a .82 housing and it's much better. If I want to make some impressive dyno numbers I'll throw the 1.03 back on. I made another sound video. I just can't get enough of how it sounds. I had to move the camera to the side of the car otherwise the sound washed out bad. https://youtu.be/2HdazOQE67s

I put one in my last post.

Exhaust is finished. I sprayed it all flat black so it doesn't stand out. I'm really surprised how quiet it is in the car. There's no drone. It's just really smooth sounding. There's a little rasp that comes out the tailpipe that you can hear from outside, but once the gates open, who cares? Sound clip: https://youtu.be/fKQxesHrjfk

Almost done. Ran out of straight tubing.

This is an amazing build!

Got to work finishing the rest of the exhaust. 3.5" with a resonator then splits into 2.5" to the mufflers. I'm going to keep the Invidia mufflers because I like how they look. The Invidia Y is 2 3/8" and slips into the 2.5" inlet of the muffler. I cut the 2 3/8" pipe out and will weld a 2.5" stub and v-band to the muffler inlet. Should be finished tomorrow.

8 psi now. Going up daily. Seems the sweet spot for the AVLS activation is 4000 RPMs. Any lower and I feel a power reduction when it kicks on and any higher and I feel a power increase. At 4000 I can't feel it turn on at all. Another in car vid with the windows down. 2nd-4th gear shifting at 7500. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6XLIsdVzkk

Romraider guys found knock sum per cylinder. https://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=8506&sid=7c0f3221f2a25d255173c334942efc4c

There are two knock sensors, but you don't need multiple to figure out which cylinder is knocking. Knock can only happen within a pretty narrow range of crank angle; after spark fires towards the top of the compression stroke into the top of the power stroke. Only one cylinder can be in that range at a time. The Hydra knows which cylinder is in that range when knock is detected.

Got about 1000 miles on the engine and everything is running smooth. Currently at 6 psi with a really soft tune. I've been figuring out what is just engine noise from the knock sensor and what is actual knock. I think I've got it nailed down and am going to start turning the boost up slowly. Couple of things that don't work with the Hydra: Fuel mileage computer and the clock in the navigation screen. Why didn't Subaru make that clock manually adjustable? Drives me crazy. The Hydra is really good though. The idle control is rock solid and easy to use. The fuel control is amazing. Full time closed loop with long term trims for every cell in the VE table. I get things dialed in in open loop and then turn on closed loop and LTTs and the AFR rarely ever varies from target. Knock detection is great as well. It will highlight cells in the ignition timing map that detected knock above the knock threshold you set. It also will tell you which cylinder knocked. You don't even need to datalog to get this info; the Hydra is always monitoring and recording this information. Just connect with your laptop and you can see the learned trims and knock detection at anytime. Another thing I like is that the fuel trims don't reset after a reflash. You can manually reset them if you want. The Hydra's biggest weakness is its datalogging. You can only datalog 8 things at once. It's fast logging, but I really would like to log more things, especially while I'm learning this engine and software. There's also no way to pick a spot in the datalog and have it show you which cell you are in. I have to figure everything out manually, write it down, open the map up that I want to change, and then make changes. Other than that I really like it. It's a step up above using OEM ECUs to tune. I hope that they improve the logging in a future update. With that said here's an in car vid of a 3rd gear romp to 7500. I get on it a little at the beginning and just as the turbo starts spooling a UHP Trooper comes around a bend and goes right past me. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=10OqZqjrHws

Daily and the project. First time they've both been running in quite a few months.

That is a very good looking car.

Oh man don't tempt me. I love the JDM bumpers. Getting one is definitely on the list.

Got the car cleaned up and took some outside pics. Also took it and got it weighed. With me (240 lbs) and a a full tank of gas it weighs 3720 lbs.

Yeah the tach would read too high. At 4k it showed 6k. It's designed for a 4 cylinder signal and now is getting a 6 cylinder signal. Thought that would be something the Hydra could handle, but no problem really. It's only money. I had never heard of the emtron until now. Looks like a really nice piece hardware.

One of the issues with this swap is the tach doesn't read right. I thought the signal might be adjustable with the Hydra, but it isn't. I had to buy a tach signal interface to get the tach to read properly. I've learned a bit more about the Hydra. Everything on the car functions (ABS, VDC, A/C, Nav, airbags, TPMS, etc.) except the cruise control and immobilizer. Since the immobilizer is bypassed the security light in the gauge cluster is on. I just popped the LED out of the gauge cluster and it's no longer a problem.

Based off that I'd start looking at the pressure switch. I'm not sure if subarus have a high and low side switch but they will have at least one switch that needs to function for the compressor to kick on when you activate the ac. Check all the hard lines of the ac system and you'll find it. It's also a possibility there isnt enough refrigerant in the system to get the pressure high enough to activate the switch, but if you had it blowing cold that probably isn't the case.

Do you have refrigerant in it?

If our drag strip were still open I would expect it to go tens. I'm planning on around 20 psi on pump and around 30-35 with meth injection. You can have a ride any time. It is so snappy off boost and just wants to rev. It's a lot of fun to drive. This engine and trans are a great match.