BrandonspecB

Cool man, I definitely look forward to seeing what you do with your build! Today I got a solid state relay wired up so I can pulse width modulate the fuel pump. This relay can run at 3500 hz. DW said to run the 300c between 2k and 20k hertz. I set it to 2000 and seems to work great. I think I know how to get the factory fuel pump control module to work with the Haltech, but I don't have enough outputs to do it. I can pulse the relay with only one output. The factory FPCM needs two.

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Wow that's a cool setup. I'm glad it fixed his problem. So far it looks like getting the pickup off the bottom of the pan has fixed things for the type of driving/racing that I do. Only time will tell. If not then I will be all in on building a dry sump. As far as crankcase ventilation goes, it's 100% VTA, no PCV. I welded a -12 fitting to the passenger valve cover and welded two -10 fittings to the driver side in place of the factory breather and PCV ports. These three hoses go to a baffled tank in the factory battery location. I have yet to see crankcase pressure exceed atmospheric pressure.

Since emissions testing is a priority, I wonder if it would be easier to 6 speed swap a Legacy 3.0R? There has to be info out there on how to manual swap an auto CANbus car. I just had a TCU code with my daily and it threw a check engine light and also flashed the AT oil temp light. Once I cleared the TCU code, the AT light went off and then I still had to clear the code from the ECU to get the CEL to go off. I wonder if you could just disconnect all the plugs on the auto trans, disable any transmission related codes that show up in the ECU, and then pop the AT oil temp light bulb out? Vehicle speed goes over the CANbus from the ABS module, so you won't lose your speedo from swapping trans. I'm not sure what else it would affect. Just throwing ideas out. I'm not sure a 6 cylinder ECU will work in a 4 cylinder car as far as keeping the other modules on the CANbus from freaking out. It may take some trial and error. Used Subaru ECUs are pretty cheap. I know the 6 cylinder ECUs have quite a bit more inputs and outputs, so the wires going into the plugs from the 4 cylinder cars harness may not go where they need to in the 6 cylinder ECU. Depends on how much control you will give the factory ECU. It's definitely going to be a challenge to get through an emissions test with an engine swap. The tech may not even notice it has a 6 cylinder. Both engines have black plastic intake manifolds. Lots of people look at my engine with a bright red intake manifold and don't realize it's a 6 until I tell them. These are car guys and sometimes even Subaru guys!

Anytime man. Cooler weather is right around the corner. I'll let you drive it. It's super crisp when it's cool out.

Thanks man! Not too sure on torque numbers yet. With the previous setup it would hit hard around 4500. That was around 20 psi of boost. I'm hoping to make 500 wtq between 6500 and 7000 RPM. That would put me over 600 whp. It runs much better now with the Haltech. It's a lot more responsive. I never could get the AVCS to work right with the Hydra, so I had it disabled. It works perfectly now. I also could never get the EBCS to work correctly with the Hydra. Lots of issues with the Hydra that just aren't there with the Haltech. The best part of this engine is between 1000 and 3000 RPM. It's way more responsive and funner to drive there than the EJ. It's a tragedy that Subaru never sold this engine and transmission combination in the US. IMO, it's their best engine and best transmission and makes for a super fun experience. Ask away. In this thread or PM, no problem.

Update. First I have a new wiring spreadsheet. I had the left bank wired as bank 1, but it should be the right bank. I changed the wiring to reflect that. The oil pressure issues I was having that caused the first engine to fail was caused by the pickup being about 1/8" from the bottom of the pan. This was restricting flow to the pump and causing the pump to cavitate at high RPM. I fixed this by removing the bottom of the pickup. This resulted in a pressure increase at all RPM including idle. Before, I had 18 psi of pressure at 900 RPM with 220 degree, 5w50 oil. Now I have 30 psi. If you have an EZ30 this is something you should look into. I took advantage of Haltech's CAN expansion and added a wideband for each bank and EGT probes per cylinder. This immediately showed that the right bank was 1 full AFR point leaner than the left bank. Now I'm feeling good about turning the power up. The meth injection is all wired up and controlled by the Haltech. I'm going to bring it up to 500whp on pump and then go for 600 whp with the meth. I'll see how the engine handles that much power and then see about going for more.

Yes, car should pass a scan. I tried hooking up our scanner to do an OBDII readiness check but it won't connect to Subarus. So, I can't say 100% it will work, but it should. Also, found out Haltech does have cruise control support. Now I have one more thing to get hooked up.

Made a few changes to my setup and have some things for sale. PM me for payment info. Defroster vent dual 52mm gauge holder: $50 shipped. I've had this for quite awhile. Has a few holes drilled here and there for a few different things I've done over the years. AEM X-series 52mm oil pressure gauge: SOLD 150 psi. Wiring cut and spliced to extend the harness. Has 5v out for datalogging. AEM X-series 52mm oil temp gauge: SOLD Wiring cut and spliced to extend the harness. New sensor. Forgot the original sensor was in the oil pan and cleaned it in the parts washer. 5v out for logging. Prosport Supreme series 52mm boost gauge: $50 shipped Works fine. 45 psi. Only issue is one of the connectors on the back wouldn't stay in, so I gave it a small dab of super glue to keep it in place. STI fuel pump controller: $50 shipped This will get you more voltage to the fuel pump while keeping the factory PWM control. Has 12g wire soldered right to the terminal. Info from this thread: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fuel-pump-control-module-143860.html

I got everything up and running well with the Haltech. It is amazing and everything I thought the Hydra was going to be. The car runs better than ever. Setup includes a Haltech Elite 2500 with basic wiring harness, CANbus expansion hub, GPS speed input module, single channel wideband controller, CANbus gauge (this thing is awesome), and an I/O expansion box. I attached some pics of how I wired mine up and an alternate wiring that I think would work if you wanted to do a simple wiring setup that only gives the bare minimum to the Haltech. You may need to do some trial and error to make sure everything works with it and confirm the wiring for your particular car's harness. This simple way would keep the OE ECU in control of the throttle, fans, relays, CEL, A/C, SI drive, ect. This way you could keep cruise control. I can confirm that the 2.5L ECU can control the larger EZ30R throttle just fine. You could get away with a Haltech 2000 and single channel wideband and be up and running for $2000. My goal was to take everything I possibly could away from the factory ECU and only leave the OE ECU there to keep the car's canbus happy. I did run into a couple issues that I couldn't figure out. The fuel pump wouldn't stop priming with the factory fuel pump controller hooked up. The Haltech would modulate it just fine when the engine was running, but on initial key on it would prime and not stop. I just decided that with this build I don't really need the controller and hard wired the fuel pump to the battery, letting the Haltech control the relay. Next issue was the cruise control light wouldn't stop flashing. I tried for awhile to figure this out, but got tired of connecting and disconnecting wires. I decided since the Haltech doesn't support cruise that I wouldn't need the cruise light. Out came the bulb. Problem solved. ABS, VDC, speedometer all work. There are no persistent warning lights in the gauge cluster. I'm very please with how this all turned out.

I'm pretty disappointed with how things played out with the Hydra. It was simple and worked great until it didn't. The Haltech is far superior in every way. The only downside is it isn't plug and play. The factory ECU is in there to keep the car's CAN bus happy. Everything associated with the engine is wired to the Haltech.

Quick update. The Hydra failed on me and support was near non-existent. Wired in a Haltech ECU in with the factory ECU. Should have done this to begin with. Car should pass an OBDII test once I'm finished. Once I get everything finished up I'll post the pinout on how to hook all this up. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iLPyzNGCLz0&feature=youtu.be

Yeah everything was reusable. Had the crank cut .010 under, new bearings, and back on the road again. Keep me informed with your build and break in!

Hey man, yeah I guess I'm due for an update. Been busy with work and a bunch of other things. I have seen that twin turbo video. Looks like a cool setup. So I was having issues with high RPM oil pressure drop for a while and it finally caught up with me. I took a friend for a spin and munched a rod bearing. I feel pretty stupid because I can setup a failsafe for oil pressure, but I just didn't get around to hooking the sensor up to the ECU. I had the engine rebuilt and now am trying to figure out why it's happening. I haven't had a chance to really get on it yet with the new engine, but we think that it's either an aeration issue or a drain back issue. If I can't get it sorted out then I'll have to build a dry sump setup. So that's pretty much everything that happened since the last time I posted. Any updates with your engine?

Looks like I can see a closed deck in there. What else is going in your build?

Nothing too crazy. Got the meth injection all wired up and working, but I haven't used it yet. Haven't really driven the car much the last little while.

A Forester would be really cool and fun. I may have to look into it one day. Or a Baja. Got most of the meth injection plumbing done. I might get it wired this weekend. There's a lot to wire up to get the Hydra to control it and all the fail safes working properly.

Got the launch control setup and working. It's loud and spools the turbo up well from a stop. Launch Control Vid I have everything to get a direct port, pulse width modulated, 3D meth injection setup going. I'm just trying to find the motivation to install and tune it.

I got the Performance Distributors coils installed along with some new Denso boots. I have no misfire or starting issues anymore. I'm using the stock EJ25 dwell settings with a .025 plug gap. Boost is at 20 psi on 91 octane pump gas and it runs great! Virtual dyno graph is uncorrected and density altitude that day was 5800'.

So the EJ coils didn't quite work that great. I'm not sure why, but I had some hot start issues with them. They worked great at WOT, but just wouldn't get the car started if it was hot. The EZ coils are back in with a .022 gap and they are doing ok. Every now and then I get a misfire at WOT. The hot start issue is gone though. I ordered some aftermarket coils from Performance Distributors. I found some tests that showed good results on domestic V8s with their coils, so I'm going to give them a try.

Wow, where are you at that you only have 10.8 psi of atmospheric pressure? That's some thin air. Based on the things you've said you've tried in your post I would probably start looking at the turbo. Pull the downpipe and see if the wastegate flapper is even there. You should have a lot of boost with the vacuum line disconnected.

I've been turning up the boost and have had to work through some ignition issues. I started with the plugs gapped at .030. This is my usual starting place with a build. I like to try and keep the gap as big as possible and turn the gap down if I run into misfires. I made it to about 14 psi and it started breaking up. I reduced the gap to .027. This is where I was running my 34 psi, water/meth injection, 550 whp EJ and had no misfire issues at all. The EZ started missing at about 16 psi with the .027 gap. At this point I really didn't want to tighten the gap anymore because I knew that gap would work under more difficult conditions. I started questioning whether the EZ coils were up to the task. I also didn't have any dwell data for the EZ coils. So, whether the EZ coils weren't working because of age, design, or incorrect dwell data is up in the air. All I knew was I needed to work with some coils that I knew were up to the task and that I had good data for to see if the coils were the problem or if I needed to reduce the plug gap again. I decided to see if EJ coils would fit. As you can see in the pics, the coils themselves are identical in external dimensions. The only differences are some ridges on the EJ coil and the length of the boots. The EZ boots are red and are slightly shorter. Now with some known good coils and accurate dwell data I went out and did some pulls. Made it up to 19 psi and called it a night. It's getting fast now. The video below is pretty boring, but it gives a good idea of how fast it is. It buries 4th gear pretty quick. I didn't have my suction cup mount camera with me, so I just stuck my cell phone in the cup holder. 1st-4th Gear Tuning Pull Video

I don't think it's as lean as the logs show, but it's not possible to say for sure without putting the o2 in a lower pressure location. It's been known for a while that the front o2 readings get skewed toward lean under pressure: Front o2 readings

That's perfect. Exactly what it should be.

I looked at your logs and there is no difference in WOT AFR between the two. According to the log your AFR is 14:1 at WOT under boost. The thing is you can't trust that reading if the o2 is in the stock location. What I see in your logs is the AFR richens up like it's supposed to during spool up, but at peak boost it leans out. This is when exhaust pressure is going to be skewing the readings of the sensor. You need to have an o2 bung welded in after the turbo and move your front o2 there for tuning or get a wideband and set it up so you can datalog it. What the logs told me is that your o2 sensor is fine. Before you went WOT the fuel trims were doing what they were supposed to and weren't too far off from where they are supposed to be. Fuel trims are active during closed loop and this is when the o2 sensor is used for fuel correction.