BrandonspecB

So looks like you found the link to the UK Legacy board. Here it is in case anyone else wants it. Legacy LED Replacement Here's the thing with the needles. If you can get the needles off without pulling the metal rod out of the stepper motor then you are ok. If the metal rod comes out with the needle you'll be banging your head against the wall trying to get the stepper motors acting normally again. It isn't too difficult, just lots of trial and error. Definitely watch the video before you pull the needles off. Sort of shows you what you're dealing with.

I'll have to poke my head in there and share some links. Engine showed up. Almost a week late, but that gave me time to get the wiring finished up. Still have to connect the power steering relay and add some more loom, but it's pretty much done. Interior is starting to look like a car again. I'll have some more detailed engine pics tomorrow.

I removed the factory LEDs for the "cruise" and "set" indicators and added my own. The Haltech runs the cruise control. Now it can illuminate the factory cruise indicators in the gauge cluster. I also need to add that if you value your sanity only remove the gauge needles unless you absolutely have no other choice. Getting those stepper motors working properly is a massive pain in the ass. I spent 4 hours working on it tonight and finally got all of them working properly. This video is a life saver:

Wiring is getting so close. Everything needed to run the engine is connected. If I stay motivated I can get everything finished up tomorrow. I made a new switch panel and added some LEDs to the gauge cluster, so I can use the OE cruise indicators. Engine has shipped and should have been here Thursday, but the local Fedex Ground facility has been having some issues.

Stock intake and MAF? Stock injectors? If yes, no issues if you keep the boost down.

Been making a little progress here and there. Everything on the engine side of the firewall is done. Now I need to make all the connections in the car. Outfront informed me that my engine should be done on Monday, so I need to start pushing hard on the wiring. Oh and got one Recaro installed!

Tach signal is one wire going from the ECU to the gauge cluster. The cluster receives it, processes it and displays it on the tach. The gauge cluster is it's own computer. It's connector B136 ©, terminal 22 at the ECU. Pink wire from ECU. Red with white stripe going into gauge cluster connector Not 100% sure on the hesitation. If the VVL system isn't switching properly it is a very noticeable hesitation and then surge of power. You can do a down and dirty test and just disconnect the VVL connectors and see if the problem goes away. Other than that, if there's no codes, I'd need a datalog when it's doing it to try and troubleshoot further.

What fuel? Pump gas? If it's under timed a couple degrees would get you to your expected power. But I can't say for sure cause I wasn't seeing what the knock sensor was telling me or seeing how much power was being gained per degree of advance. If you trust it's safe go do a third gear pull and post the log.

Here's a handful of videos I put back up. They're all unlisted. I figure that's a good compromise. Cold Start Cruising and WOT Exhaust Sound 1000-7500 RPM Knock Sweep Turbo EZ30 Low Boost dragy 1st - 4th Gear Flyby

And fuse to protect the wire

About those videos... I have quite a few, but have taken them down for reasons previously discussed. Maybe I'll reconsider tysparks81's offer to host them. Appreciate the kind words about my car! It's a lot of fun to drive when it's running.

Appreciate the offer, but I'm going to keep things to a minimum. I doubt I have anything to worry about, but, as the saying goes, the nail that sticks out gets hammered. It really wouldn't surprise me if they try to make an example out of some of the individuals with bigger names and followings. I see all these cars at Drag Week and Race Week and TX2K that run 6s, 7s, and 8s and they have plates on them. It's a slap in the face to an enforcement agency. I hope they don't go after individuals, but it wouldn't surprise me. Now to something a little less depressing...wiring! Or maybe that's just as depressing Got all the OE wiring squared away. As you can see there isn't much going to the factory ECU anymore. Just the bare minimum to keep it in there and on the CAN bus. Got a lot of the Haltech wiring done. Just need a couple new harnesses for the I/O expansion boxes and I can get it all squared away. Hopefully will have an engine next week. Oh, and Evo X Recaros!

Definitely appreciate the kind words and motivation. I really haven't posted about this car any where else. I figured I would just document everything I did here if someone else wanted to go down this path. I took my YouTube channel down because I was getting a little nervous with what is happening with the aftermarket industry and a certain federal agency. I'm not interested in drawing any attention. I started posting some videos to Rumble since it's pretty low key for car stuff and easy to use, but eventually decided to take those vids down too. I just feel like it's not a good time to be drawing attention to yourself with modded car stuff.

I'm in too deep to quit now . There is an air mass per cylinder channel I can data log, but I haven't been. Maybe once it's up and running again I'll see what it shows.

Now with the engine being built I needed to start figuring out the trigger issues. I contacted Haltech and told them what happened. They gave me some ideas, but there really isn't much they can help me with until the engine is running again. The first thing I decided to do was to redo the engine harness. The way I set it up originally was by tapping the Haltech into the Subaru wiring harness near the factory ECU. Now it will be all brand new wires and connectors from the Haltech, using Haltech wiring, to the engine. All the factory wires to control the engine have been removed from the wiring harness. The large engine connector is still there, but is brand new. Now all my sensors I added go through that connector. This has been quite the project. Started by building the engine side with a new Haltech 2500 harness and all new Subaru connectors. Lots of work, but I had help. Engine harness is 90% done. Will finish the rest once the engine is installed. One change I'm making here is the crank sensor and left cam sensor wiring (used as home signal for sequential operation) will not go through the main engine connector. They will go right to the Haltech using the Haltech supplied shielded wire. Now on to the car side . Cleans up nicely! Now I need to run the Haltech harness through the firewall and connect to the main connector. There's also a bunch of things the Haltech controls that I will still use the factory wiring, but none of it is engine control related. Mainly starter relay, fan relays, main relay, cruise control and a few other things. Those are the wires I pulled off to the side in the next foot well pic. And this is where I'm at. Oh, also bought some Evo X Recaros from the classifieds that I'm excited about!

Have an interesting update that's a few months in the making. Put some 100 octane in and was doing some tuning at 25 psi and getting some engine position errors. Had no issues at lower boost or even free revving to 7500 in neutral. Anyways, was getting huge backfires from the ECU not knowing engine position and firing spark at the wrong time. It literally sounded like gun shots. The pic below is from the first time it happened. Notice the crazy RPM signal and spiking of coolant and crankcase pressure? I should have stopped and figured out what was going on. But I didn't. I changed some filtering on the triggers and kept going. Here we have the graph of a failed engine. It's interesting to look at TPS in this log and see the fail safes kick in. I have the coolant pressure failsafe set at 30 psi. It took the ECU 0.25 seconds to close the throttle to 30% after coolant pressure exceeded 30 psi. It took me an additional 0.5 seconds to lift my foot completely off the throttle. Either way, there was no saving this. Spark at the wrong time will smoke any engine. The aftermath. Cracking the cylinder was kind of sad, but I know why it happened and I know there are stronger options available. What really made me sad is when I tore it down and the bearings were wiped out again. At this point I wasn't sure the EZ30 was a good option for making power. This engine has 5000 miles on it and wiped out a set of bearings. I started thinking about throwing in a stock NA EZ and leaving it at that. I decided to give it one last try. I didn't build all this custom shit just to throw it all away. I got in touch with Outfront and told them the issues I was having. Jeremy said they haven't had any bearing issues with their engines. I told him my power goals and uses for the engine and he said it would handle it no problem. Hearing that I bought a balanced and assembled closed deck EZ30 machined for 12mm head studs. I sent them my rods to reuse and purchased new pistons, a used crank, and King bearings from them. I should be seeing it in 2-3 weeks. And then I can try again.

Cool stuff.

Thanks! Folding mirrors are already installed. Definitely a fun addition! The hood prop doesn't fit anymore due to the intercooler tubing. I need to get a set of hood struts, but for now I just throw the prop in the back seat. Yeah battery was relocated to the trunk. Thanks, appreciate it! Glad I could help with the wheels! I much prefer the Raijins. They look like a 19" compared to the EKM3.

Had the car out today. I don't drive it much and when I do it usually goes from a garage to another garage. I parked it on the street for a bit and honestly haven't really ever seen it from a distance. Snapped a few pics because why not. Also took a pic of the engine bay in its final form. Welded in some bungs for the turbo inlet temperature and pressure sensors. Can't really do much else in there.

Thanks man!

It works! https://rumble.com/vfsn3t-volvo-electric-power-steering-pump.html Feels really good. Can't even hear the pump when the engine is running.

Almost done. He's redoing some of the intercooler tubing behind the bumper today.

Friend sent me some pics last night of the power steering pump. He should be done tonight. He had to mount it at a slight angle to clear the intercooler tubing. This weekend I'll get the rack installed, hoses and power to it and see how it works.

Yeah always have elevation working against me. Summer gets really bad. Density altitude goes over 8000' on some days which is why I don't really drive it in the summer. It's just a slow, heat soaked, laggy mess. I'll definitely get some more videos once it's dialed in. Will a launch control test video tide you over for now? It was dark, but I wanted to hear what it sounded like outside the car. Could make it blow fireballs if I wanted to. https://rumble.com/vfoibp-launch-control.html

I'm excited to say that this thing is getting fast! It's been a slow process bringing the boost up a bit at a time and working on the boost controller, meth controller, and timing at each boost level. Currently at 25 psi with quite a bit of work to do, but this car has never been faster. I use 60-80 mph as a benchmark to see where the car is at. I take RPM, gearing, and tire diameter to figure out which RPM 80 mph and 60 mph happens at and then subtract the time difference in the log. The fastest my EJ went was 1.46 seconds. This was 34 psi boost, 19F IAT, with a weight of around 3750 lbs. This morning with 25 psi boost, 40F IAT, with a passenger, so total weight was close to 4000 lbs, the car went 1.36 seconds. Still lots of tuning to do. AFR was super rich from the meth injection causing it to break up a bit. Car goes to my friend's house tonight for a power steering pump mount. Hopefully I can get that all finished up over the weekend and get some more tuning done. I'd really love to see a 1.10 60-80 time with a solid tune and no passenger.