BrandonspecB

It will be whatever I want it to be. 600 whp is the minimum I want to make and I'm sure it will make it easily. 700+ is the real goal. Even with a 67mm turbo it's still far more responsive than an EJ with a 62mm. The main reason I wanted a bigger engine was to have more peak power AND more power under the curve.

For now I'm just going to get it broken in and making around 500 whp on pump. Then I'll start getting it ready for more power. Bigger fuel pump, direct port methanol injection, twin disc clutch, and finish the 3.5" exhaust. Right now only the downpipe is 3.5". Oh man I don't even want to think about building another one.

It's done, it runs, and it's amazing! So worth all the work. It sounds amazing. Spent the day finishing the wiring harness. Got everything buttoned up, fired it up, checked for leaks, let it warm up, then dumped the start up flush oil and filter and got the break in oil and OEM filter installed. Now I need to figure out all the features of the Hydra and get it broken in and making some power! First start: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C8EeL-Oc3j8 Revs: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1pheR9qPxPQ

Everything is done except for a few leads in the wiring harness and some vacuum lines. First start tomorrow afternoon!!

Exhaust is completely finished. The turbo is in its permanent home. That was an incredible amount of work. I'm really glad to have it behind me. Got the cooling system all sorted out and ready to go. There's a few things that need to be done with the cooling system with this swap. You need a 3.0 radiator. The EZ30 has two coolant outlets on the heads and so you need a radiator with two inlets. The fan shrouds and motors are different. I bought the 3.0 shrouds and modified my motors to fit. I just had to grind the tabs down and pop out the metal bushings around the bolt hole in the shroud and I was able to get the motors to fit. I'm not sure if the 3.0 fan motors have the same electrical connector, so I just modified mine. The radiator cap and overflow tube are different. The overflow bottle is the same and bolts right to the 3.0 shroud. I'm a little behind where I'd like to be, but I'm still on track for a Sunday start.

Took a break from the car yesterday, but got back at it today. Got the AVLS wiring sorted. The Hydra controls the ground. I just grabbed 12v from the wiring harness and ran the ground to the Hydra. AVLS is activated with switches so there's no polarity to worry about. Got a brace for the uppipe made and the downpipe tacked up. Tomorrow I'm going to get the exhaust completely welded up including the wastegates and o2 bungs. Friday I'll build the turbo inlet and hotside intercooler pipe. All that's left after that is doing breather hoses and installing the wiring harness. I'm pretty sure I'll have a first start video Saturday or Sunday.

It is a great honor to be mentioned in the same sentence as the mighty Turbo Yoda. Turbo is in!!! The crossover and up pipe are tacked up. This is all way more work than I thought. This thing might not run until next week.

Here we go again. I haven't thought about this stuff in a while and now it's all coming back to me. I'm really not trying to up my post count. I remember now I was having issues with the car hesitating from leaning out when it would switch from closed loop to open loop. When I was using a MAF I used the per injector compensation tables to try and fix this. When I switched to SD I used the VE table to try and smooth things out (workaround similar to using load compensation table.) But I was always fighting fuel issues. If I got things dialed in at part throttle the car would lean out during a WOT pull between 3-4k RPMS. If I dialed in WOT, things would lean out at part throttle in that area. What I ended up doing was using the closed loop and short term fuel trims to always adjust the fuel in those problem areas and then raise the RPM and load that the ECU would switch to open loop. So, how does this work? First you have to understand how and when the ECU decides to switch to open loop. You have to look at two tables for this (assuming your closed loop to open loop delay is zeroed.) First is primary open loop fueling and second is minimum active primary open loop enrichment. Anywhere in the primary open loop fueling that is higher (leaner) than the minimum active will be closed loop. Anytime you move to a cell that is lower (richer) than the minimum active table the ECU will go to open loop. The thing is that the ECU uses a couple other tables to determine what the AFR will be when it is in closed loop. The numbers in open loop table are just used to determine when it is in closed loop. Now look at the CL fueling target compensation tables. When the ECU is in closed loop this is added to the AFR number in whatever cell of the open loop table you are in. So I'm looking at my stock map and at .73 load at 3600 RPMs the open loop table says 14.7. So, I'm in closed loop. Now I look at the closed loop comp table. Same load and RPM is -0.257. The ECU is actually targeting 14.443 AFR. We can use this to our advantage to maintain closed loop short term trims much, much higher up than Subaru does. We know the factory front o2 will read as rich as 11:1. It gets inaccurate once exhaust manifold pressure rises. Knowing this I set closed to stay on at a much higher load and RPM. Pretty much any stand alone worth a damn has complete full time closed loop fuel control, so why not try to use our factory setup to stay in closed loop as long as we can? You definitely need to have the D long term trim disabled for this to work right. You don't want these compensations to be learned and applied later on. Just short term trims, that's all. You also don't want to use fuel trims to cover up a bad calibration. You should try and get everything as close as you can, then let the trims get things perfect. I included some pictures to show how my tables are setup. This resulted in a much smoother transition to open loop since I was always out of the problem areas when it switched. I would also always maintain target AFR during a low RPM WOT spool up or a part throttle low-medium boost trip through the map. All this assumes your ECU has these tables. I've only ever seen the 2007 maps. Time for bed.

Ok, so I fail at reading comprehension. I reread your first post and saw the area you're having issues with. For some reason Subarus have weird fuel delivery issues in areas between 3000-4000 RPMs. I had to deal with the same problem with multiple setups. If you have no boost leaks and are using the Cobb map for the intake then it's safe to say your airflow calibration is probably pretty close. This definitely is a fuel delivery issue caused by some type of resonance in the fuel system. This is the problem people try to solve by installing longer fuel hose or changing the fuel dampers, etc. The proper way to fix it is by directly injecting more fuel into the problem areas. The only way to do this is with the per injector pulse width compensation tables. If you look at these tables you can see Subaru already adds fuel between 2800-3200 RPMs (at least in my 2007 ECU.) These tables let you add pulse width directly without making a change to load. Some people use the load compensation table to fix this issue, but raising load to add fuel will decrease timing in that area. You can go into your timing map and increase the timing, but this is a workaround and doesn't solve the issue directly. There is information and spreadsheets at Romraider.com about this issue. You basically have to datalog the RPM and pulsewidth when the problem happens and make changes to those areas. Or you can try the engine load compensation.

Here's sort of some basic tuning info. What you're doing is modeling airflow and fuel flow in the ECU. The airflow model is your MAF scaling. The fuel flow model is your injector settings. Injector settings take into account fuel pressure and assumes it is 1:1 rising rate with base fuel pressure of 43.5 psi. If there is a discrepancy between target AFR (open loop table) and actual AFR (wideband) then there is something wrong with the airflow or fuel flow in the ECU not matching reality. Is the injector scaling setup for the injectors you are using? Have you verified base fuel pressure? Does fuel pressure rise with boost? If fuel flow is doing what it is suppose to then there is an issue with the airflow calibration. 100% certain there are no boost leaks? The breather and PCV hoses can draw in unmetered air if they have leaks. These hoses tend to get overlooked and turn into brittle hard plastic when they are old. You say you have an aftermarket intake. Has the car been tuned for it? Any change to the intake that affects how air flows over the MAF sensor requires a complete recalibration of the MAF scaling. This includes replacing the factory air box with a cone filter and/or changing the MAF housing. The turbo inlet itself may affect things, but probably not as much as the other things.

Spent 12 hours on the exhaust today. Didn't get as far as I'd like, but definitely made a lot of progress. Got both headers finished up and started on the crossover pipe. The collectors have to built from the inside to get them to seal. You tack the collector to the pipes, then cut it off and weld everything up on the inside, then weld the collector cover back on. I really respect the guys that do this for a living. It is a lot of work.

It looks like a mess, but I got a lot done. Injectors and coils are wired. AVCS and coolant temp sensor wires lengthened. Knock sensors wired. Knock sensors were pretty easy. Signal and ground from each one. The grounds connect together then run to a ground wad in the harness. The left knock sensor signal wire goes to the factory signal wire. The right signal wire goes to a pin in the Hydra. The signal wires are shielded. The shielding covers the signal wire up to the large harness connector then connects to a wire that goes to the engine ground. Still have to figure out the AVLS switches. I think the Hydra controls the ground, but I'm not 100% sure. Got my new exhaust flange and tubing. I'll get the exhaust finished tomorrow. I got some tips and coaching from my coworkers on welding stainless. Things should go better with the rest of the exhaust. I'm thinking this thing will be running Wednesday or Thursday.

Looks awesome! I want to do the JDM bumper to mine. Where do you get the parts from and what year/model Legacy are they from?

Not much exciting to show. Started getting into the wiring. Adding the extra coils and injectors is a little messy, but not too difficult. I had to cut open the entire harness to find the 12v and grounds for both. Each injector has 2 pins. The ECU controls the ground. All the injectors share the same 12v source. You can see in the pic the one red wire goes into a "wad" and comes out with multiple leads. Each of those goes to an injector as well as other things that need 12v. All you need to do to add injectors is solder a wire into that wad, run it to the injector (injector isn't polarized, so it doesn't matter which pin), then take the lead from the Hydra and connect it to the other pin. The coils are more or less the same. Each coil has 3 pins: 12v, ground, and signal from the ECU. The 12v and grounds are shared between all of the coils. Just find the wads, tap in, connect lead from Hydra to remaining pin. The 12v and ground wires are the same color on all the coils, so it's easy to see which wire is the signal. I need to look over the EZ30 wiring diagram to figure out how the knock sensors and AVLS are wired. The way things are looking I think this thing will be running next week!

Fuel system is all done. I ordered my AN tools yesterday and they showed up today! I'm back to waiting on parts. I thought I could get going on the wiring, but there's a few connectors I need to really get going. I want to add a large connector (similar to the OE engine harness one) to run all the additional wires through so I just need to disconnect it when I pull the engine. I also forgot to order the two extra fuel injector connectors.

Bit more progress. Need to figure out what size of belt I need for the alternator. Got fan shrouds, new exhaust flange and tubing, and some AN wrenches ordered. I think I'll start on the wiring tomorrow.

Not as much progress today as I hoped for. Got the radiator installed. I need to get new fans or hopefully just the shrouds. The ones I have don't fit the 3.0 radiator. Turbo drain hose is hooked up and ready for a turbo. Got one header made up, but when I welded it up it warped horribly. The flange was so warped it wouldn't fit on the exhaust studs. The collector also wouldn't slide over the primaries. So, that had me a bit discouraged. I'm not the best welder and this is the first time I've built stainless headers, so there's a lot I'm learning. After some lunch I came back and started on another header. This time I drilled a massive piece of scrap metal that was laying around, so I could bolt the exhaust flange to it. I also tacked around each tube every 1/2" or so and then just connected the dots with a weld. I let things cool off between each weld. Doing that worked a lot better. There was only a little warping. Now I need to order another flange and some more tubing to build another one.

Engine is in! I hooked up the oil tank to pressurize the oil system to check for leaks before it went in. Crank angle sensor and trigger wheel sit behind the flywheel. Exhaust fab starts tomorrow. I'll probably put in a good 16 hours. The turbo will sit a little further forward and lower than where it is in the picture.

I haven't seen any issues with the EZ pickup on other forums, but you never know. I changed the one out of my EJ the first time I tore it down. Don't want to take any chances with that shit, as you well know. Anyways, engine is done. I left my laptop at work, so this is the only picture I'm uploading. Too big of a pain in the ass doing this on my phone. Tomorrow I'll have pics of the engine in its new home.

There's nothing to upgrade to.

Here are pics from tonight's progress. Got the upper and lower oil pans on as well as the rear timing cover. This is where the EZ is drastically different. Everything up to this point was pretty much the same as the EJ. There are a lot of fasteners, o-rings, and silicone needed to keep this engine sealed up. I spent a solid 2 hours tonight just organizing bolts. It didn't help that the Subaru service manual had some of the fasteners for the rear timing cover mislabeled. I thought I was going to lose my mind trying to find bolts that didn't exist. The only aftermarket motor mounts for this engine come from Kein. I set the front cover and intake manifold on just see what a finished product will look like. All I need to do now is get the timing chains and guides on and attach the front cover. That will happen tomorrow. Engine will go in Friday.

Porn you shall have... I'm planning on having it completely assembled on Thursday. Drop it in on Friday and start building exhaust over the weekend. If things go well this thing could be running in a couple weeks.

Just got a call. Engine is finished. I'll be picking it up as soon as I'm off work.

I wish I had an engine finished update, but it's still at the machine shop. They were installing the pistons on the rods and found that the rods are too wide for the pistons. Now I'm waiting for the small end on the rods to be machined thinner and balanced. Here are some things I've learned about aftermarket EZ30 pistons, rods, and bearings. Hopefully this will help somebody else with their build in the future. The Pauter rods are built exactly to factory spec. The Outfront pistons (manufactured by CP) are built to fit their H-beam rods (unknown manufacturer.) The Outfront rods use EJ25 rod bearings. I think they do this because there are more bearing options available for the EJ and possibly when they had the rods manufactured there weren't any aftermarket bearings available. King makes their rod bearings for an incorrect big end size. I don't know why they do this. I had to have my Pauter rods opened up .002 so the King bearings would fit. They say their STD bearing is made for a 2.1673 big end bore. The factory spec is 2.165. I haven't had any problems with the King main bearings. If I were to do this again I would get the Outfront pistons and rods and use King EJ rod bearings and King EZ main bearings. Supertech makes pistons for the EZ that would fit the Pauter rods without modification, but they don't make them over sized. They are 8.5:1 compression and made of 4032 alloy. The Outfront pistons are 9.7:1 and made of 2618. They come in .010, .020, and .030 over sized. If you have to bore the cylinders then you have no choice but to use the Outfront pistons. With that said here are some pics! I'm just doing little things that need to be done. Got the front cover cleaned up and painted. Plugged some coolant ports I won't be using and added a fitting for an oil pressure sender in the upper oil pan. Got a bung welded in the lower oil pan for an oil temp sensor and one welded under the oil fill neck for a crankcase pressure sensor. I'm also going to fit a pressure sensor to the cooling system and the uppipe. I'm really excited to take advantage of the Hydra's extra inputs. Coolant pressure will let me setup a fail safe for a head gasket failure. Crankcase pressure will let me setup a fail safe for a piston or ring failure. The moment pressure reaches a higher than normal level I can have the Hydra cut power far faster than I ever could. I was going to use a single wastegate in the uppipe, but I don't think I'll have much room with both the uppipe and downpipe coming through on the same side of the subframe. It's going to be tight in there. I decided to use two TiAL MVSs and put one just after the collector of each header. There will be much more room down there for them.

Good looking car!