08SpecB_DE

Have you checked for spark and injector pulse? One can assume you have injector pulse if you smell fuel after cranking but we aren't under the hood. Take pics of the spark plugs when you get them all out, make a mental note if any come out wet with gas, indicating lack of spark in that cylinder.

The motor turns over but doesnt start so he is able to do a compression test.

Are all of the fuses good? Perhaps one blew when you jumped it? Otherwise, I'd do compression and leakdown tests.

I'd save up and get the v3. I wouldnt trust the v2 at this point. If something happens to the v3, at least you have support you can fall back on.

I've been asking for weeks about the sway bars

I have more cabin noise/vibration at cold idle but I tack that up to the headers being a slightly tighter fit than I would have liked at the heads.

Not today but I installed a set of Perrin el headers on the car over the weekend. I like how its quieter at idle but still has a nasty sound when I get on it. If I knew I was going to like it this much, I would have done it sooner.

You may have to take the time and check them yourself. Take a tire off, fill it up to 45 or 50 psi. The increased pressure will help mimic the tire being on the car. Spray the tire with soapy water and check for bubbles. If it's a slow leak, be patient and you will find an accumulation of very small bubbles.

Are the rims bent? There could be corrosion on the lip causing air to leak out slowly over time.

I replaced my RF bearing with a Timken from RockAuto yesterday. I knew the axle boots were starting to fling some grease but the RF was torn all the way around and dumping grease on the ground. I got one from Advance for $80 because it was already apart. I figured if it gives me a problem, I can return it. I hit 80mph with no vibration on acceleration so I'm calling it good...for now. The abs sensor bolt snapped off in the knuckle so I had to drill it out and re-tap the hole, something to keep in mind.

^ what he said

The rear camber is messed up. It looks like the spec changed over .5° which is quite drastic. I dont think the .2° difference in the front camber would cause the type of pull you're experiencing but it would be nice to at least see them the same on both sides. It's strange that the specs can be that out of whack and the thrustvinkel (stealing this word!) is still 0.

Do you have the alignment printout? It sounds like they messed up the alignment. My guess would be the right side has less negative camber which essentially causes the car to pull in that direction. They may have not aligned the steering wheel prior to adjusting the toe.

Have you had an alignment recently?

What are your fuel trims at idle and while cruising down the road around 50mph, light throttle?

It's going to be hard attaching it with broken tabs. I haven't seen those Ate slotted rotors in a long time! I always thought the orbit style slot was cool.

They probably reset the ecu so now you see the change based on the short time it's been driven as opposed to thousands of miles beforehand.

If OEM ocv doesn't fix the issue, it would be a good idea to pull the cover and make sure you didnt jump time. With no history on the car, it's really hard to say but neglecting oil changes could have created a lot of sludge buildup or the oil pump could be going bad. How does the car run? Does the motor make any weird knocking or squeaking noises?

There's nothing special about Subaru's. If anything, they are easier to work on than most cars. It gets more complicated with aftermarket internal bits but he doesnt seem to want to go down that road. I agree with the "while you're in there" part. Avoid any machine shop that "doesn't work on many Subaru engines". Every machine shop should see their fair share of Subaru motors.

Looks like a 10mm.

Buy a new shortblock from Heuberger and find a good machine shop in your area to go over the heads. I don't see a need for a staged block especially if your tune is conservative. I think you can expect a price north of 5k for everything.

Look for the source of the noise. It could have upgraded, stiffer mounts that increase nvh, or an engine or trans mount is bad and causing excessive vibration in the cabin. Flat spots on tires can make for a very noisy ride as well. If it's just air coming in from a closed window, replacing the door seals can solve this problem.

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Are you lowered or is that just the front lip and angle?