08SpecB_DE

If it's not below, its next to it. Its hooked to the Male spade on the starter.

Is the trigger wire on the starter tight? If you have a test light, have someone attempt to start the car while probing the trigger wire. You should have 12v all the time on the main power wire at the starter and power on the trigger wire while cranking.

^^ This Multiple clicks is the battery Single click/clunk is the starter

Doesnt sound too expensive given it's a timing chain motor. If the headgasket is leaking, then it's only right to replace other seals and gaskets along the way. I'd advise you to have the chain, tensioner and guides replaced while they are in there.

I noticed my af learning 1A climbing over the past few weeks. I hooked the smoke machine up and saw smoke rolling out of the tgv plate on the passenger head near the turbo. I saw 1 thread in the archives so I'm hoping to re-open the discussion. Deletes would be the obvious choice but im trying to keep the cost low until I'm ready to rebuild the motor. Will RTV hold if I fill in that hole beneath the plate?

Are you sure the ac compressor is functioning?

No more than 20k miles on Bilsteins.

The rear of my car has been sagging noticeably more than ever. I replaced the springs and it brought the rear up to a nice spot on the RR but after driving home, the LR is only slightly higher than before the springs. I can fit 2 1/2 fingers on the RR and about 1 1/2 on the LR. I'm not really sure what else to do. I bought 3/4" spacers but the bolts were going to interfere with the rubber insulator so I didnt install them. It does look like the upper control arm inner bushing is tearing, could that be the cause of my saggy woes?

Mevotech is on the lower end of quality in the aftermarket world. They're always the cheaper option when looking up parts pricing.

The misfires are going to be the cause. The pinging comes from uneven burning of the fuel. I'd start with swapping number 4 coil with number 1 and see if the misfire follows. It may be a good idea to pull all the plugs again and check their condition. Raw gas on a plug would mean that coil is not firing properly.

Only reason I suspect different is because it goes away once the car is warmed up. Torque converter failure typically happens all the time. The older these cars get, the more they need to be babied.

I have the factory mid-pipe in great condition. I sold the cans years ago but it would be a start for you. I'm in northern Delaware. Let me know if you'd like some pics, I can take some Monday when I'm at work. I work at a shop and can install it for you as well but you'd have to pay my boss the labor.

Aisin or Continental timing kits if not OEM. Dayco quality is inferior to most on the market. Seals are not necessary but are prone to leak over time. SOHC Subarus are the easiest timing belts to do. Plenty of room to work once the radiator and fan assembly is out of the way. I'd steer clear of that shop, they dont know what they're doing. I believe it's about a 3.5hr book labor job and probably another hour to do the seals if you want them done.

The fluid needs to be warm to properly lubricate, but it sounds like your torque converter could be going bad or you need to let the car warm up a little before driving.

I'd have a shop put it in the air and have someone power brake it or run it up to speed. Check the simple things first like an exhaust leak or bad baffles in the muffler. If the whole exhaust checks out, I'm sticking with spark knock. Do you have an accessport or any way of monitoring knock and fuel trims?

Sounds like spark knock. How do the spark plugs look?

Sounds like center diff. Does it vibrate and feel like its binding up?

Check your coils. My guess would be #2 or #4 coil since you said LF.

Have you tried to jiggle the wiper switch? Maybe there's a worn contact inside.

He stated the battery was new

That's awesome!

Check the fuses first. They get checked the same as the Escort. There will be a fuse box under the hood and one inside the vehicle. Check all of them.

He's going to rip someone off if it gets bought. Its a paperweight at this point.

How long do you want the check engine light to stay out? I've yet to see an aftermarket cat last more than a year. You can probably find the headers at a junkyard.

It would be a good idea to change the plugs first. Do you have any exhaust leaks? You'll need to be able to monitor fuel trims and o2 data to determine if the cat has failed.