08SpecB_DE

I wish the tech who originally did mine had the same care for my car. My dash was pristine minus the stickiness which they ended up replacing for me later down the road. I have a cracked vent, missing bolts/screws for the nav unit and cluster, center console never got out back in properly, etc.

Post the alignment sheet if you have one. How do your tires look? Try swapping the 2 front tires and see if the pull changes directions.

Pirelli P7 Cinturatos. Check ratings on tirerack. I put a similar size on my girlfriend's car last weekend. I paid slightly more getting them from the rack but we have a wholesale account. Amazon had them for $95/each iirc.

Hopefully whoever does it, will make you aware of any rock hard vacuum hoses that should be replaced while its apart. $1,500 sounds a little low to me, I'd guess $2,000-$2,500 all said and done.

Where did you get the part from? Pop the rods off and manually test each one attached to the actuator. If any of them are hard to move, it's the actuator. Not being able to manually operate it via the key or flipping the lock points at the actuator.

Check the grounds near the tgv's. Very common to forget especially when doing the deletes.

Check the rods. One may have got a little bent. Generally, your description leads to an actuator binding up but with it being new, I'd have to assume its good.

Once the system is pulled down to -30hg, there is no need to pull a vacuum for more than a couple more minutes. The correct amount of oil, correct oil and proper refrigerant capacity is critical for proper operation and longevity. I generally recommend the DIY to have a professional charge the system.

I have a brand new set of 8ft ac gauges if your are in need of them. Some compressors come pre-filled with oil, so pay attention to any stickers.

A small pair of pliers will help. Its stuck on the o-ring so a little pressure and it will pop right out.

Nothing is different. I just changed mine last weekend. I had a clunk shortly after I bought my car, turns out the nut on the strut was just loose. Have you tried tightening them down?

What's the code description? The car could be running lean or rich under heavy acceleration that will throw a false o2 code. The cat could also be an issue.

Installed several parts today: Jdm rear sway with new end links and Avo brackets 3/4" saggy butt spacers with new mounts Front struts and springs 20mm wheel spacers I also changed the oil and did the alignment after all the suspension work. I was able to find some longer, serrated 10x1.25mm wheel studs to accommodate the 3/4 spacers. I had to drill out the holes on the mounts and the holes of the spacers to fit the larger serrated portion of the longer studs. Everything came out great!

Try spraying the condenser with a garden hose to see if it helps cool the air. It's hard to say what the issue is without seeing the pressures. There could be a slight clog in the condenser or a sticky expansion valve. The compressor could also be getting too hot causing it to cut out. When you are experiencing the issue of the ac clutch not running, check for power on the wire going to the compressor. If it has power, the compressor clutch is going bad. Does the clutch short cycle when the ac is functioning properly? By short cycle, I mean run for a max of 5 seconds then shut off, etc or does it run for much longer?

Do you know the pressure values? Does it get colder as you drive down the road but get warmer at red lights?

They can send the part back. They should have pressure tested the system to find the source of the leak. The radiator is quite easy to remove, I recommend new spring clamps for both radiator hoses as well.

"Fuel only needs to be drained if 2/3 full or higher" You think those guys are draining the gas tank to replace the pump? I'm telling you, they will not siphon all or probably any gas out of the car to do the fuel pump. They may charge for it, but they aren't going through that trouble. The "special tool" in that description is only the quick disconnect tool for the lines. FSM's say a lot of things, but are only followed by people who don't know what they're doing.

They dont siphon the gas out. They pull the whole assembly out of the tank, so less gas in the tank equals less chance of making a big mess.

You need a smoke machine for proper diagnosing. Pull the hose off the purge that runs to the tank, this will be where you hook up the smoke. Pull the vent hose off the canister and plug the canister. Turn on the smoke and check for leaks. Dont forget to pull the access covers off under the seat. Given the age, it could be a number of things. Let us know what they find before you move forward with repairs unless it's a cheap fix.

I'll politely disagree with the last 2 posts about Mercedes. I'd drive one if it was given to me and all maintenance was free but that's where it stops.

They're for sale locally but the more I think about it, I'm not sure how much I'd trust them to be reliable.

Any info you guys can share about a 7.62 Chinese SKS and a 5.56 Romanian century arms sar-3?

My money is on a sticking caliper. The smoking was the pads burning up. Does the rust on the driver's rotor have more of a red color compared to the passenger side which will be the normal brown rust color? If the braking material on the pads is turning white, there's the culprit. If you can take pics of both rotors and the pads I can confirm.

If the cel blinks, there should be a history of which cylinder(s) is misfiring. If the car is cold, you can gun it with no issues? Maybe you should check fuel pressure cold acceleration and warm acceleration. The pump could be overheating and cutting out.

A blinking cel is the car misfiring. It could be a number of things, can you monitor all 4 cylinders to see which cyl has the problem? Spark plugs Coil pack Fuel pump or filter Dirty injectors Bad tune Even worse, it could be internal like bad valves. I'd probably start with a compression and leakdown test before you start throwing parts at it.