08SpecB_DE

I've driven a modified and pro-tuned wrx with the vf52 and the power it had compared to my stg2 ots map vf46 was enough to make me buy a vf52. I haven't installed it yet but all I remember thinking was "Damn! Why doesnt my car feel like this?" It had a lot more power in low and mid range. I've noticed my car doesnt seem to really come to life until I hit 4th gear.

Check the blower motor, it's under the glove box. Give it a couple bumps with your fist and see if it starts working.

I like the Magnaflow system but it's all I've had so I can't compare to any other brand.

Fair enough. Have you tried checking the rotors with a temperature gun after you experience the shimmy? When the shimmy is present, does it do it all the time, only when accelerating or only when braking?

Oops, I may have read your complaint wrong. Can you make a video of the noise? Have you contacted the dealer about this issue?

Sorry dude, I'm at a loss as well. Only other thing I can think of would be checking terminal tension on the coil connector. Edit: without saying "fire up the parts cannon and throw a new ecm at it"

Sounds like the pads are shifting inside the bracket. Is it a single metallic sounding clunk?

I just noticed the alignment sheet is from 2019 I thought you recently had it done. I'm sure if you tell them you want the specs as close to the actual specification as possible, not just within tolerance, they will take care of you. That should be the mindset of anyone performing an alignment but most techs will not take the time unless it's on their own vehicle. Edit: Now would be a good time to fix the rear camber since the alignment is not going to be free. I could be wrong, but I think the Whiteline bushings give you up to .7° of adjustment.

I'd take it back and demand they fix at least the front toe since there's no factory rear camber adjustment. Your tires are essentially fighting the road so any bump or dip in the road will exacerbate that. Then, you can work on getting the rear camber straightened out. Until then, keep the tires rotated often to reduce the wear on the inside of the tire.

^ What he said

All grounds have been double checked?

"In the green" isn't always good enough. Your front toe for instance, both front tires are driving down the road like this " \ \" or even closer "l \" Same is true for rear camber. I bet you'd feel a big difference just fixing the front toe but .7° difference in rear camber is enough to where I'd recommend addressing it as well.

I log in everyday hoping to see one

I do not, I'll have to dig for it, I didnt see any specs on my initial search. If everything is the same, I'd have to assume the computer is good. Does it backfire at all through the intake when cranking? It sounds like the timing may be out 180°.

You have the same signal on all 4 coils at the coils and at the ecu? Did you ohm the signal wires from coil to ecu? Did you possibly mix up coil connectors?

I can look them up for you but I need all the info about the car.

Before you throw more money at it, maybe see if it can be put back on the alignment machine and get a printout of the specs. Worn struts will cause the tires to feather on the inside but I can't say I've seen even a blown out strut cause tire issues in such short mileage.

I use a slide hammer.

The toe can be out the same on both sides. Hitting a bump can exacerbate that and cause a quick shimmy in the steering wheel. It would also explain the quick feathering of the tires.

I had mine replaced and along the lines of what Max stated, it's no longer sticky but I'll be damned if anything was put back correctly. Nav unit had 2 screws loosely holding it in place, 1 screw near the cluster, they broke the pass side air vent and didnt install the center console properly. It's back under recall for the airbag so I wonder what will happen next....

I would assume so too, especially if it's a shop you deal with regularly, but it would be nice to rule it out.

New tires feathering in under 3k would be struts or the alignment. I just put the DWS on my car about 1500 miles ago and they're smooth and quiet. It does sound like the struts aren't keeping the tires grounded but I'm getting more and more curious to see the alignment sheet.

I never put the car in 1st gear while the car is moving, I was always told it's a big no-no. The bushings aren't hard to do but it depends on your mechanical ability. I normally drive through neighborhoods and parking lots in 2nd gear. You can take 2nd gear down to 5mph and slowly accelerate out without issue. The more you drive the car, you'll pick up on what it likes and doesn't like. I would think the only way you'll get the car into 1st while going 5-10mph is to bring the rpm up a little bit. There's a sweet spot where the shifter will basically fall into gear, try to find that area while paying attention to speed and rpm.

How old are your struts? How often do you rotate the tires? Can you get a printout of your latest alignment?

How long ago did you replace the brakes? Take everything apart and see if any of the pads are wearing unevenly. Make sure the guide pins slide easily and the pads aren't stuck in the brackets. Many people dont realize running through a cold carwash after driving around for a while, will warp rotors quickly.