08SpecB_DE

How much for the Cobb inlet?

Battery voltage at the starter. I always check all fuses.

https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/brake-pads/haw1-hb533f-668-hawk-hps-front-brake-pads Picture 4 zooms in on the tab that I'm referring to. Sometimes those tabs get bent in the boxes and dont put enough pressure against the bracket. I do recall you having to grind them down, did the pads push off the rotors after doing so? I've been dealing with a leak out of the input shaft seal but I'd rather replace the whole assembly. I haven't come across an aftermarket rack that doesnt leak within the first 2 years. Maybe I should just rebuild mine.

Anyone happen to have a D-shaped Damd wheel that they want to sell? Red stitching is preferred but I'd entertain others.

Sounds like you're on the right track. It wouldn't be hard to make your own and give it a try. Have you tried checking the power wire at the starter with a test light? It should be very bright. If the ground is not clean, that can cause a similar problem. May be a dumb question, but did you connect the power wire to the correct terminal on the starter?

That actually doesnt look too bad rust wise but probably because I've seen a lot worse. What rack did you buy Max? Looks like defective pads on the right side. If I'm not mistaken, the tabs on the pads should put just enough pressure against the bracket to allow the pad to lift off the rotor just a hair so they don't drag.

If the alignment was out, he would have a shimmy without touching the brakes at highway speed but it would be magnified when applying the brakes. A slight drift to the right while in the right lane is normal due to the crown in the road. The alignment can be adjusted to compensate for the crown but it will generally cause the alignment to be a little out of spec.

I'd stop driving the car and no more revving. Something is coming apart. Very hard to say what it is, but if you have a stethoscope (harbor freight has them) you can check around various parts of the motor to determine the source of the noise. The turbo doesn't sound very healthy.

Slop in the rack can be found on the lift prior to replacement. Max- It sounds like the pads are defective or a rock got stuck between the pad and rotor and caused the groove. Do you have a temperature gun that can help determine if one rotor is getting hot? I've never heard of balancing a rotor but I have seen drums with weights on them. Any new rotor with the cross-hatch pattern is not technically a "true" rotor. They require proper bedding and brake in. They're within spec so they dont pulsate. A true rotor will have a completely smooth brake surface.

I typically hit the receiving end of said part that I'm removing if it's not being replaced. Forks work great when you're replacing the components. Heat will be your best friend for those pinch bolts, just be careful of other rubber boots in the area. I wont hesitate to hit an aluminum knuckle with a hammer to remove a tie-rod. They can take quite a beating with very little marring.

When you say raised band, do you mean similar to a lip on the edge of the rotor like one would see on a really worn down rotor? Were the pads worn unevenly? Intermittent shimmy, excessive brake dust and the raised edge on the rotor definitely sounds like that was your issue. The brake pads should be very easy to remove from the brackets. I've had issues with rust buildup under the hardware causing the pads to be tight.

It sounds like a bearing is going bad. Can you make the noise go away or change pitch by driving in a slalom?

If the motor blew, I'd replace the turbo as well. The last thing you want to do is fix the motor, leave the turbo on and end up having to do it all over again.

A battery will be very difficult to bring back if it discharges too much. A 2amp trickle charger should take care of your needs. I can't stress this enough, make sure its plugged into a gfci outlet. My co-workers dad could have lost his Boxster S. The charger shorted out against the hood, bubbled the paint in a small area and charred the underside of the hood.

I wouldn't say the vehicle I looked at was a "leak" as much as I'd say it was seeping. There was no physical oil drip but it was wet with dirt accumulating. The cover was leaking on the opposite side so there was no chance of it being blow back.

Sorry to hear that but it's good you got it figured out. This seems to be an almost daily occurrence with new 4th gen owners. I'm sure you know but you can pick up an IAG shortblock for around 3k and get your heads refreshed. Make sure the banjo filters get removed before you assemble everything. If they're still there, it's almost a guarantee they will be plugged.

What a silly comment to make. Who here has ever had good luck at a dealership? Just because the name says Subaru over the bay doors, does not mean they know what they're doing or even care enough to do the job properly. I dont even want the dealer doing my recall work but I dont have any other choice.

Where is the hose that's supposed to be attached to the broken nipple?

No emissions in PA since when? An exhaust shop can cut out the cat and weld in a straight pipe but you'd have to find a sketchy shop thats willing to do it. Do you have access to a scan tool so you can monitor o2 data?

Is there a reason I wouldnt put the bracket back on or are you saying it's easy to forget about?

All the rtv looked factory and none of the bolts looked like they were touched. I like rtv to compliment a gasket but never be the main seal whenever possible.

Sounds like the cat clogged on your gf causing the poor acceleration. If you didnt seem to mind the light being on but wanted the car to run better, they probably gutted it. Poor fuel trims can cause a fake cat code, same with a bad O2 or A/F sensor. I can't stress this enough, get a factory cat if that's what it needs. Otherwise, look forward to doing the job again in a year or 2. Aftermarket cats do not hold up.

After fixing the bcs, you still have the 171 code? 05 had the blue T under the intercooler that is prone to leaking. It's possible there's a vacuum hose you missed so I'd start with a smoke test. Disregard all of this if you haven't fixed the bcs yet.

The little plate on the back end of the butterfly shaft. The passenger side plate sits a few inches from the turbo. Ares- I think that's what I'm going to do. Now I'm tempted to get bigger injectors, the tgv delete and swap out most of the vac hoses underneath the manifold. I'm sure many are like porcelain by now.

I worked on a 2013 Legacy about 2 weeks ago with the same issues. B1 head, timing cover and the oil pan were all leaking. The timing cover was leaking the most. I believe it had around 120k on the odometer.