Ellesedil

Sticking with the OEM clutch sounds fine to me. Replacing the flywheel sounds less fine. Have the shop justify why they can't just resurface the flywheel. I strongly recommend this due to my own experience on this issue. I had to convince COBB, who did my clutch and thought I had a dual-mass flywheel, that I didn't need to replace my flywheel with the WRX single-mass flywheel because I actually already had it from the factory. It took a couple of conversations, and I had to point out that the part numbers were the same for both my Legacy and the WRX. Once they understood that, they simply resurfaced it. I suspect your shop may be operating under similar pretenses. The 4th generation Legacy had a dual-mass flywheel for most model years, so it is definitely a misconception for some Subaru shops who see 4th gen Legacies but almost no 5th gen Legacies to have. If you had a dual-mass flywheel (and again, you don't), you would need to replace it as resurfacing it is not an option. It is possible that the single-mass flywheel couldn't be resurfaced for other reasons, necessitating replacement. But if it hasn't been resurfaced before, I'd be a bit suspicious of anyone recommending I replace the flywheel.

You can follow that rational to some really ridiculous places. "Overboosting? Let's create some deliberate boost leaks. Don't worry, you'd make your turbo work harder anyway if you wanted more power so it's fine." I want efficient power generation. If there's an inefficiency, then I want to correct it so that the components in the car do not have to work harder then necessary for the same result. That way, if I can turn up the boost, it can actually be used productively and not just to cover up an inefficiency. The relevant question I have here, though, is should the Nameless TBE overboost on a stock BPV or an aftermarket BPV such as the BPV that Nameless offers? From what I understand, the answer should still be no to both. But, I'm a software developer, not an automotive engineer.

There's actually something related to this that I was wondering for the last several days. Ryan's car was tuned, as far as I know, with just the Nameless TBE for power and an open sourced tune. Afterwards, he upgraded the stock BPV to a Nameless unit for the 2015 WRX. If he hasn't run a log since then, do we know if Ryan's car is or is not overboosting now?

The question I have is: which spring do you ultimately want to run? If it's the Eibachs, then fine, install them. If it's the H&Rs, then leave them investigate more likely culprits.

This works for me. I'm looking at a January or February time-frame to have the budget for this. I have one question: Do you guys want to do the install? I'm interested in eliminating as many variables as possible, and having a different garage do the install introduces some. I have no power mods except for an AccessPort and my entire intake system is also currently stock, including all of my intercolor piping (I do have AVO pieces in my garage waiting to install). The Nameless parts I own are the full TBE with 5" double walled axlebacks and the 2015 WRX BPV with the 1" adapter hose. Essentially, I should have pretty much the exact same setup as Ryan, except I have an AccessPort for tuning and logging instead of open source and I have the revised downpipe design. Hell, our cars are even the same color. Mine is just two years younger.

The only thing I'd suggest is to keep your existing flywheel and just resurface it. It's already a single mass flywheel, so you probably don't need to buy a new one. Your installer should be able to determine if the flywheel can be resurfaced. If your car is a daily driver, I'd also suggest not "upgrading" to a lightweight flywheel. From the experience of others, it looks like daily driving and especially driving in traffic can be real chore. As for the clutches themselves, I'm not really familiar with any of those besides the OEM one. So, *shrugs*

I could, but I don't see how that conversation would go. My problem is that I only have what's posted in this thread, which is all second-hand (from their perspective of me engaging them), and I lack a lot of details that Nameless would undoubtedly want in order to determine what the problem is. We think the issue is the join of the dump pipe to the main exhaust pipe. But I have no evidence of this other than "only a little more than a handful of people installed the downpipe, some said they overboost, and others said they didn't, and you changed the design." I'm not going to win anything with that argument because they're going to ask a bunch of questions about the install and the tune that I'm unable to answer. The way I see it, I have two options: start to get on their case about testing the revised downpipe on Ryan's car... or just have them install my downpipe on my car. If we can get them involved directly in an install (and I'm willing to wave money in their face once I have it set aside to encourage that), then we cut out a lot of the questions they would otherwise ask. And with a local protuner involved, it should make communication easier to identify and hopefully solve any issues that arise. This is why I'm not really upset about the situation, yet. I'm disappointed, sure. And I am a little frustrated that there's some feet dragging on testing the revised downpipe on Ryan's car. But I'm not ready to revolt because I don't yet have enough details to be able to really press my case. If they rebuff my attempts to engage them AND rebuff Ryan's attempts to get the revised downpipe tested, then my tolerance for this will start disappearing pretty quickly.

Yeah, I don't know if they'll have time for me. But yes, I'll be paying for the install so I hope we can work something out. I won't know until January, though. At this point, though, I don't actually care about the original downpipe anymore. I want them to install the one I have. If the car is safe afterwards, great. If it overboosts, then I'll suggest my preference and see where we end up.

In your case? You'd plug a laptop in an run a log. In my case? I'd just have a boost gauge set up on my AccessPort.

I'm not at this point yet. I haven't even tried to install my downpipe, and only a handful of people here have with mixed results, both good and bad. We don't have nearly enough information for any sort of legal recourse (I believe, I'm not a lawyer). I will admit, however, that I have a potential recourse that no one else from the group buy does: which is to schedule my install with Nameless themselves. Now, I have no idea what Nameless is up to nowadays. But come sometime in January, which is when I should have the available funds for this, I'm planning on giving Nameless a call and seeing if they can fit my car into their schedule. Until I make that attempt, I'm content to just wait and see what additional data we can get through either other installs or when Nameless eventually tests the downpipe themselves. My ideal solution will be having Nameless revert the downpipe design back to their original version, which includes the angled join of the dump pipe back into the main exhaust. But, I have no leverage to make that happen myself unless I try to install it and see how things shake out. I should be a good candidate for overboosting. It'll be winter time, so somewhere in the 40's, the tallest point in Portland is less than 650 feet above sea level, and I already own the full TBE Nameless offers (also not yet installed). So if my car overboosts, then I'll already be working with Nameless and the tuner to determine the solution.

That quote states that Legacy owners are using donors from a WRX, which doesn't actually work for us unless you really like a low front end.

Which is a good point, I'm not on coils. Looks like it's 13.4mm closer to the strut. There should be room for that, right? http://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=225&aspect=45&diameter=18&wheelwidth=7.5&offset=55&width2=265&aspect2=35&wheel_size=19&wheel_width=9-5&offset2=43#isPage=1

Yeah, I pay a lot of attention to wet performance. Although, we do get about 4 solid months of very little rain at the height of summer. But, I'll probably try to run the tires for most of the year anyway, which means I'll be using them at the start and end of "winter". I remember the PSS being rated highly in the rain, but it's been a while since I've actually looked. So, if I want to go 265, I'll need to pull and roll. Hmm, I do like square fitments....

What tire size were you thinking of running? I'm hoping 255/35 will fit without too much trouble. There's ample summer performance tires in that size, including the S-04 Pole Position and Pilot Super Sports. I'll probably end up selecting one of those two tires (my dad has PSS's on his MS MX5 on my recommendation, and is now recommending that I get them, heh).

I placed the order on the Getters. It's processing. We'll see how it shakes out since RavSpec isn't actually open today, although they are responding to messages via email or Facebook. Rays are a wheel brand I did not expect to buy ever since I was essentially priced out of them.

I'm just verifying fitment with Brembos and inquiring about the center caps. The Rays site actually lists a "Variable Layer Center Unit", and seems to indicate that lug nuts are included. The RavSpec site mentions no such thing. So, I'm just trying to get some clarification. https://www.rayswheels.co.jp/products/wheel.php?lang=en&wheel=57GETTER

I sent an inquiry about them with a couple of questions. I'm thinking about it.

Sadly, the largest size they have is 18x8. Mine were 18x8.5. I've moved on to dreaming about SA10Rs in Zebra Black. I wonder if 18x9.5 +45 would fit and clear Brembos. I saw those a few days ago. Killer deal. I seriously thought about them, but I think they might be a bit too dark for me. I already did the color-matched wheels thing, and I think I want to go lighter this time. But I'm willing to be convinced otherwise, and paying 1 grand for 2.5 grand worth of wheels is a good first step.

What wheels do you have?

RavSpec, a former vendor on here, has been posting a bunch of black Friday deals for the last week and a half. For us, the most interesting deals will be on wheels. Some of their deals are actually pretty crazy. http://www.ravspec.com/product-category/clearance-sale

If you're not sideways, you're not having fun.

There's a cutout, but no hangers. You can see the cutout on this 2014 2.5i Sport. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cTWIN82A6nE]2014 Subaru Legacy 2.5i Sport - Perrin Axle-Back Exhaust - YouTube[/ame]

Yeah, I have nav + camera. But I don't have any sensors. I'm just really curious as to what the original owner/dealership was thinking when they installed those sensors on the bumper.

Really? Are they functional?

I think we're still waiting on Fischbach's car to log changes and work with his tuner. I can't be certain, as I haven't heard any new info in a while.