Ellesedil

This counts as sitting, right?

I've already made my annual trip to New England Not that I'd have my car with me anyway.

Good. Doing this has been in the back of my mind for a while.

So, the good news is that my car is in a better state now then when I arrived in the morning. DAM is solidly at 1, fine knock learn isn't really a thing anymore, etc. The bad news is that my car can't really build boost. It's maxing out somewhere around 10-11 PSI or so. There's no obvious reason for it that they could find by looking around and ensuring things were clamped, so they're going to try to diagnose things more thoroughly. The car goes back on Tuesday. The tuner talked me through the steps they'll take, and we talked about some potential options depending on some potential things they might find although potential solutions are probably premature right now. So yeah. More tinkering coming up.

Learned something new about my car. Apparently, it dabbles in BDSM on occasions.

They did a pre tune inspection in the morning. But yeah, I'm just waiting for the dyno to free up.

Waiting patiently....

A brand new one? I'm not a fan of the new Civic styling very much. I think they tried too hard to make it look modern/futuristic.

I don't know what it was at when it was on the dyno as I wasn't in the car. But I've seen it that low in the last 7 days. It's fluctuating up and down all the time right now. The hotter it gets, the more it fluctuates. The guy who dynoed the car is the tuner since the whole point was for him to to generate some data and take a look at things to determine where the car is at. There's no point in dropping 450 bucks for the tuner to simply say "the tune is fine" because that would essentially be 450 dollars spent in order to decide to call COBB. If your DAM has to be 1 to do a pull, how does anyone generate a log then? Doesn't that simply mean the engine is pulling ignition timing to protect itself because other parameters are causing early detonation? I can see how a DAM near or at 0 would be bad, though.

Here's the dyno graph from English for comparison. It was 45 degrees at the time. They list 275/325 on a dynojet. But, my car is pulling timing right now and it's in the upper 90's. My DAM is anywhere between .3 and .75 lately.

Eh, this thread started out so promising and full of hope. Now, it's just sad.

I had three pulls done on the dyno mid-afternoon. There was no tuning today. I had to schedule that for Friday morning. How many pulls did the car go through when English was tuning it? Lots. With lots of experimentation to get the BPV, jpipe, and BCS to work together. Steve, the tuner at HMS, mentioned he's tuned 5 or so 5th gens when I asked, most of which didn't have any other power mods. I'm content to see where things go on Friday.

Like I said, my car makes less boost later in the RPM range since the exhaust install + English tune compared to the OTS stage 1 map. Add in that their wastegate "porting" added 1 PSI of boost instead of reducing it, there's a lot of things that's laughable... if I didn't end up actually having to pay for that. Right now, I'm willing to blame this fully on their tune... unless HMS ends up discovering some other issues during tuning. Then... well... $$$$$$$.

Back home. The rear diff magnetic drain plug contained a disturbing amount of metal, plus at least one piece that I'd consider larger than a "flake". Something I'll have to be mindful of. But everything has new fluid in it. The car went on their dyno. The general prognosis is that at 95ish degrees, the car targets 17.5 but can only hit 14.5 right now, it's running rich, there's a dip in power for some reason, and the DAM isn't at 1. The tuner at HMS seems to be pretty sure he can make things better, but mentioned that the tune isn't completely awful or dangerous. Max numbers were 229.7 HP @ 5956 RPM and 252.8 Ft-Lbs @ 3074 RPM. I realize it's hot, but I'm willing to bet I was making more power earlier on the stage 1 tune. *sigh* Here are some files from the runs. I believe datalog4.csv is actually a 4th gear pull. That was a long (and loud) pull. My car goes back on the dyno first thing Friday morning for a new pro-tune. datalog4.csv datalog6.csv datalog7.csv

My car is going to a different shop that is Subaru specific with an on-premise dyno and tuner Monday morning. Getting some routine maintenance done (oil change, 60k) as well as a spin on their dyno. Then I'm sure some discussions about the past/present/future will ensue. My expectation is at least a new tune, and at least a discussion about the exhaust that's on there and the wastegate "porting" I had done.

This is a thread to *find* information. What you're posting on here is noise, which makes it more difficult to find information. You can post stuff like that in any number of other threads. But not in the stickies. Scroll down past the stickied threads, and then post whatever questions/comments/jokes/nonsense you want.

I'm putting this here because where I originally wrote these up makes it hard to find. Here are my, uh, high quality scans of the instructions for installing Prova rainguards. I pretty much just followed the pictures (mainly because I can't read Japanese). If my camera phone hasn't done a good enough job, I can actually scan these instructions, but the pages are likely to be out of order. I suspect these directions will work for almost any rainguards, but these are the directions that came with Prova guards specifically. Long story, well, long: 0) Realize that I'm regurgitating this from memory and looking at these pictures. Anything I say that contradicts the images is probably wrong. Also, you're the one doing this, so deviate from this if you feel it is necessary. 1) Remove the weather stripping from the top of the windows. 2) Clean the area of the window frame where the guards will adhere to with an alcohol wipe (included if new). 3) Peel back the tape backing at both ends of the top tape, and only the top end of the tape along the side of the guard that sticks to the center pillar area. Don't remove the entire backing or you'll never be able to reposition the guard. Bend the removed backing at an angle so that you can grab them after the guards are on the car. 4) Ensure the front guards have their tabs fit into the front of the trim, and then align them. The ends of the tape will keep things in place once you've positioned them. 5) Attach the clips and ensure they'll fit appropriately when you eventually stuff the weather stripping back in. 6) Remove the rest of the backing. The top tape backing should be removed from both ends and meet in the middle. The side tape backing in the center pillar area should be removed from the top down. 7) Ensure the guard is uniformly adhering to the window trim. Press down on it from the middle, and move outwards. 8) Stuff the weather stripping back in, ensuring the the clips are oriented properly. 9) Repeat until all 4 are done. 10) Engage baller mode.

Every time this thread gets bumped up, I assume there's just going to be more depression and sadness. Even my wife is resigned to the fact that I'll probably eventually spend some more money on my car's exhaust.

Any article that asks what took Subaru so long to recall faulty airbags must live under an automotive rock. Let's just generously say that... Takata has issues. https://www.nytimes.com/2017/06/25/business/takata-japan-restructuring.html

"Brand new (seriously. I put them on two months ago) Hankooks on 17" rims. (just paid $700 for them)" Looks like he still has the stock wheels, so those should be 18's.

Eh, that counts... when exactly? Where can we possibly go to approach our max speed? I can only think of an oval track myself.

I'm preparing myself for replacing mine down the road, if that's where things lead.

This actually all sounds reasonable to me, although you didn't mention the cost. Just about every tuner I've talked to recommends replacing spark plugs. I ended up needing a EBCS, but mine was beginning to corrode and wasn't keeping boost control level. And it looks like they want to test the car before putting it on the dyno and having it do repeat red-line pulls. I guess it depends on what the "something else" is, I suppose.

There's 2 other 5th gen LGTs in the area (ironically, they're also graphite grey) that I've met up with... although not for some time now.