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These? http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Whiteline-KCA326-Rear-Camber-Adjustment-Bushings

I was holding the steering wheel as straight as can be when he aligned it. He adjusted the front Toe to +0.05° each side, so that shouldn't be the issue. The low Caster angle of +5.2° on the front right side may be the reason the steering wheel is pushed to the right when driving straight. When I let go of the wheel, the car still continues to go straight. I could just try pulling the steering wheel again myself and turn it one click to the left, but, I have a lot of positive Toe in the rear as well, so I should probably have that adjusted anyways as well as the rear right Camber. I'm going to have to find an alignment shop locally that I can trust to do the job correctly. I have a feeling though, that I will going to AZP for that.

Oh, and after going out for dinner and driving around for a bit, I noticed me steering wheel is still slightly tilted to the right when driving straight.

But, what else would explain the differences between the two reports since they didn't touch the rear?

Wouldn't camber be slightly more negative with me in the car? Because it's a dealership and they're lazy? Would having ~49K miles on the suspension affect that? Maybe time to replace/upgrade?

This was the 1st alignment after having the DAMD steering wheel installed. They said the alignment had to be done because the DAMD wheel was slightly askew right. My initial response was, why not just pull the wheel and put it back on one tooth to the left. He said, then it would be slightly askew left and I would still need an alignment. After the alignment and a test drive, the DAMD wheel was off to the right (more than just one tooth) and the car pulled slightly right, so I had them re-do it. This is why I really, really wish I didn't have to go to the dealer for the install, but I was unable to do it myself or find a shop locally that would. This is the 2nd alignment done with me sitting in the car and holding the steering wheel straight. I saw on the alignment screen that it was all "green lights". As you see in the print-out, that wasn't the case, but all the red numbers are .1° or less out of spec. Also note, the rear numbers changed just from me sitting in the car; he never touched the rear wheels when he did the alignment. So, what are everyone's impressions of these numbers since I know nothing about alignment specs?

I prefer not drowning.

Are you building a vacuum cleaner?

Question for the suspension gurus out there; When I 1st put in my STi strut tower brace, it said to replace the locking nuts with the 6 new ones that were supplied. I've also read in the Subaru strut removal guide, to replace the nuts with new ones when replacing the struts. I just recently removed the STi bar and replaced it with the Cusco one, however, I re-used the nuts since Cusco didn't supply new ones. I know it says to use new ones, but how necessary are they? Could I get away with using the old ones and using some Loctite on them?

I wasn't planning on going to WBM, but maybe now I will have to.

Well, I guess I'm DAMD if I do, DAMD if I don't.

What do you think the gains will be from the DAMD steering wheel?

I'm sure Pescitus will let you borrow his lwcp

Same here, but for some reason, it was a bit easier on mine than on Perscitus' when I did his. I stripped one of the holes on his and when we get a chance will have to try a thicker screw.

Nice. Did you follow my method, or did you install it the proper way?

Did you ever receive yours?

Cool. In the meanwhile, I guess where not doing anything before then?

I'm off Tuesday; What time? I may stop by. If you like hot dogs, we can go to Walter's less than a mile away.

http://thmotorsports.com/i-238434.aspx?gclid=CMai7N35nb4CFexZ7AodrXwAeQ $100.99 including shipping, which is a little less than I paid for mine. You could always take the stock milk jug and modify it (i.e. cut the bottom off), or just get some PVC tubing and jamb it in there.

I'll take a blue one if they fit with no issues.

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/HKS-70999-AF001-Intake-Funnel-Subaru/dp/B00567A2EQ/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1399601918&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=hks+gunnel]Amazon.com: HKS 70999-AF001 Air Intake Funnel for Subaru: Automotive[/ame]

Yeah, AMR is a whopping 38 minutes drive for me. But since I'm invested in the Tactrix cable and have the opensource def files, I'd still be leaning in that direction if I ever decide to get tuned.

Okay, thnx. I had read this and was a bit confused: "By the way, this is an e-tune. For a lot of us, this may be the way we have to go as EcuTek programmers are not always in our area." I get it now tho; it's an emailed Ecutek tune.

So, you did an opensource tune using the ecutek cable?

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