nstg8r

What high beam bulbs does it use?

Which lamp is cracked and what do you plan on doing with them?

be nice if this thread were a sticky

Mine showed up in two weeks.

Chrome w/camera: J1210AJ017 Chrome w/o camera: J1210AJ015

To be honest, if it is a knockoff, it's a pretty damn good one. This thing was as solid as they come.

Here's a cheaper one with hardware from the same site... http://www.shopitchina.com/item/21066667593# and another one... http://www.shopitchina.com/item/15221793169

Something like this? Good idea!

I ordered with mounting and it came with all of the hardware. I have no idea why they would sell it without mounting, but I didn't want to take a chance. Like I said previously, you'll save a lot without the mounting hardware but you may have a problem finding the red stopper. All the other stuff I listed is basic stuff.

Mic, did you order the Cusco brace?

http://kspecracing.com/swift_springs/swift_sport_specr_springs/4f907r/i-540234.aspx http://kspecracing.com/swift_springs/swift_sport_springs/4f910/i-528958.aspx

30. Trunk Lid Garnish.pdf

Michal, would you be able to pull my ROM, too?

For what model year?

http://www.tomorrowstechnician.com/Article/63049/undercover_joining_the_brake_booster_club.aspx

So, after driving around a day or so with the MCB fully installed, my impression is that it does stiffen up the pedal a bit and reduces travel slightly. I had also recently noticed that my pedal seemed to have better feel after installing the Takeda intake. At first, I though I may have been just imagining it, but after a little research, it is possible that there is a change of manifold vacuum pressure, and since the brake vacuum booster is attached directly to the manifold, it can affect that as well. only way to know for sure would have been to test it before and after with a vacuum gauge.

Yeah, I would have saved $41.32 if I had gone that way. To be honest, I'm not sure why there are two options; I wonder if the "including installation" option meant they would install it if I lived in China, lol. I think all the hardware would cost less than $5 minus the red stopper. That may be a little harder to find, but we have some really good independent hardware shops here that have lot's of odd stuff. Good luck trying to find any of it at Home Depot. Here's my parts list. Stopper hardware (can sub 5/16" for M8): 1-M8x1.25x50mm bolt (2" long if 5/16") 2-M8x1.25 flange nuts 2-M8 toothed locking washers 1-M8 stopper (you may have to get creative for this) Mounting hardware: (front bottom) 2-M6x1.0x30mm bolts (cannot sub for these, they replace the OEM bolts) 2-M6 washers (rear bottom) 2-1/4"x3/4" self drilling screws (I couldn't find M6x20mm ones, these are for the two missing holes) 2-1/4" or M6 washers If drilling new holes instead: 2-M6x1.0x25mm bolts (sub 1/4"x1") 2-M6x1.0 flange nuts (sub 1/4") 4-M6 washers (sub 1/4") (rear top) 1-#14 (or 3/8", I forget which I used) nylon license plate fastener nut 1-#14x1.25" hex head screw 1-#14 (or 1/4") washer 1-M8 (or 5/16") washer or (2-man job) 1-M8x1.25x30 bolt (sub 5/16"x1.25") 1-M8x1.25 flange nut (sub 5/16") 2-M8 washers (sub 5/16") (front top chassis grounding bolt, not necessary to replace) 1-M6x1.0x20mm bolt 1-M6 washer

I'm still running with stock exhaust, would that be an issue?

Okay, so I was thinking to myself, "self, I think I know what will fit in that hole and make my life much easier." So off to the hardware store for some nuts and bolts and voilà... That top rear hole is a real b1tch to get to without removing the master cylinder itself (which I wasn't doing). I used a thin screwdriver to help me guide the fastener into place, otherwise I probably would have been fishing for it after I dropped it, and it snapped right in. The screw itself was also a pain. There's no room for a ratchet, so you have to use an old-fashioned open-ended wrench to do the job. A ratchet wrench would be the preferred method, so that'll be on my birthday wish list this year. The bottom two holes I went with the self tapping screws and after figuring out how to get in there with the power drill, they went right in. They're in there pretty secure so this brace isn't going anywhere. The two front bottom M6x25mm bolts I replaced with M6x30mm ones and they were a lot easier to set into place. I used a new bolt for the top ground cable bolt just for the heck of it. edit: Oh, and I also put a dab of JB Weld SteelStick into the red stopper so it would fuse it to the bolt. I didn't want that finding it's way under the engine either.

Okay, so all that being said, and even after reading all the FAQ's from RomRaider, I'd still rather have someone else pull the ROM image for me. When I have a better idea of what my February schedule will look like, I'll be giving ECS a call.

I do a lot of driving, averaging around 1.8K/mo (21.6K/yr). My avg mpg since my last oil change ~4K miles ago is at 20.1 according to my car's display (I have it adjusted so it's fairly accurate). That comes out to about 1075gal/yr. I did some sampling of gas prices in my area comparing premium (93) to regular (87) and the premium is usually around $.30 more than regular. So, if I switched to a 93 octane tune, it would only cost me about $322.50/yr or $.88/day to operate my car. That's not a lot.

Okay, so how much would this cost for the dyno & tune?

I may have a trick up my sleeve for that top rear bolt.

Partially installed it today. Still need to drill the two holes and install the three rear bolts. It will probably be a two man job and I will most likely have to at least remove the tire. I'm hoping I don't have to remove the strut as well. For the three bolts I did install, the chassis/battery grounding bolt was the easiest. The other two bolts were a pain getting everything lined up properly to thread them into the existing holes. The supplied M6x1.0 bolts are only 25mm long. It probably would have been easier to use 30mm long bolts. Right now, it feels like it's pretty secure in place so I may still go with self tapping screws for the missing two holes. The hole for the upper rear bolt (M8x1.25 30mm) is there, but like I said, it'll take an extra set of hands. I can see daylight through the hole, so I'm hoping it wont be too difficult.

Apparently, I already have 1 of the 3 holes needed.