monkeyposeur

^Ah. I have been able to find those but I was worried about running an adapter and wearing out the wheel bearings. People want $1200 for the '04 STi rims. I did find a place to order them new for $220ish though. Let us know how the adapters work. I pulled the trigger on an '02 WRX scoop & splitter I found on NASIOC for a decent price.

I would clean your MAF with a can of MAF cleaner, about $6. It could be going bad. Is your fuel filter new as well? I would start with the MAF, then check the relay. When my MAF went bad I had a severe stuttering issue, but the engine would never die like yours. The fuel pressure regulator is just a little plastic thingy and it is probably OK. Those look awesome! I've been trying to find a set of those for my SS. Are they knockoffs or the '04 STi rims?

Thanks! Yeah, I'd never done it before. I was surprised how great it turned out. I'll paint my SS in the spring hopefully.

It's a second gen, but sure! It had pretty extensive damage from a rear end collision that happened before I purchased it. I'm slowly piecing a 205/22T hybrid to swap in. Painting thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/monkeyposeurs-hatch-replacement-and-body-work-thread-175934.html

Looks good! What is your setup? Gun/Compressor? I wish I had a garage. I had to take an auto body class in order to have a place to shoot my wagon (downdraft heated booth). But my teacher let me use his $700 gun.

Jealous!!!

Yeah, you're right. I guess it would only be a problem if you were running high boost causing it to collapse.

s2baru, I'd clean your MAF. I had a stuttering issue that drove me crazy for months until I finally figured it was the MAF. And the fuel pump was going out. If your MAF is bad any aluminum MAF from a 1st gen is a direct swap. GTteaser, good luck with the boost leak! I think I told you how I had about a million boost leaks and had to replace everything. The turbo inlet elbow is a good place to start.

That will look great! What did it come off of?

Congrats! That looks clean! Looks like you threw on some snowflakes pretty quick!

Ah, that does sound easy! I remember you were experimenting with making molded lenses. Cool!

Great job! Those look awesome! I'd love to do that someday. Think you'll do a DIY writeup?

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention the Canadian models had the manual seatbelts.

That's not a bad deal IMO. I paid about that much for mine with a 4EAT and some minor rust w/160k. Then the HGs blew after 70 miles of driving. But it's running great now and the wife loves it as her DD. The manual seat belts are about as hard to find as unicorns. I'd check the parts shed over on bbslegacycentral. There was someone on this forum that posted a diy using outback seatbelts a while back. Looked like a PITA.

Factory boost for the 22T is 8.7 psi. You can run up to 11-12 psi using a manual boost controller but anything above that and you will get fuel cut, assuming you are using the stock 22T ecu. You can build a fuel cut defender and that will allow you to run as much boost as you want. Personally I wouldn't run any more than the stock boost levels (8.7 psi) without installing an intercooler. I wouldn't want to run any more than 10-12 psi on the VF11. You will want to source an '06 WRX tmic or a Forester XT tmic for the best fitment. Make sure the BOV mount is at an angle. Here are some great instructions about how to install a tmic: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=38598&sid=5e1a6d17fd869ba42e5341a526a93865

I saw that car in some other pics from a huge Subaru meet. Too bad I can't remember where, but someone posted pics a while back. It is still running the stock 22T iirc. Evacuation and recharge was about $160 which was pretty close to other estimates I was getting. I don't have a vacuum pump and didn't feel like purchasing one. I thought about using a junkyard ac compressor but I am hoping that instead of doing that every couple of years I would get a new one that will last longer. Did you have to add any PAG oil to your compressors or did you just use what was already in there?

Replaced the AC compressor with a new in the box compressor I found on ebay for $160. Replaced the drier/receiver. I had my wife take it to the dealership to be evacuated and charged. Once there they told her they needed the old compressor so they knew how much oil to put in. So she had to go dig it out of the trash and take it back. For some reason they reinstalled the old compressor, did something (don't know what), took it out, put the new one in and charged it up. My wife was there for four hours! But at least she has ice cold AC now! And I saved $800. They quoted me $1200 if they would have done all the work. AC compressors are spendy for the first gens. They run about $750 or more now days!!!

Probably! It was subikid's machine shop so who knows!

No, that was for both heads.

Getting the heads decked only runs about $75.

I use NGK V-powers (part # is 2756 BKR6E-11) in my SS. It seems to be the consensus over on bbs that they are the best plugs to use in old tleggys.

You can use the 22T ecu without doing a harness merge or taking apart the dash. You will have to swap the polarity of a cam or crank sensor, I forget exactly which. You might have some boost leaks. I'd install a boost gauge so you know what is going on with the turbo. And since you aren't using the 22T currently you need a manual boost controller unless you want to count on the wastegate pressure to regulate your boost.

^Don't waste your money on ARP case bolts or head studs. Stock are just fine. The head studs aren't necessary unless you are pushing 400 hp or so. The case bolts will cause clearance issues with your crank unless you do some machining to the block. Are you using the 22T heads? If you are using 205 heads, again, the stock studs are just fine for plenty of power. Your 22T block can take a lot of psi if you upgrade the internals. A stock shortblock can handle 20 psi or more but for how long and how reliable can and will vary. People have run over 35 psi but that is with a lot of up[porting mods. The stock crank is plenty good for 300+ hp. The rods are pretty good but STi rods are a cheap and easy upgrade. The pistons are OK but if you are splitting the block upgrade them as well. Wisecos aren't too expensive. It also depends on what you are doing for engine management because a bad tune will blow up your engine quick. The stock 22T ecu will only allow you to run 12-13 psi before fuel cut unless you make a fuel cut defender and install a manual boost gauge. Personally I wouldn't run over 12 psi with stock internals and the stock VF11/12 or a TD04 along with a tmic of course. If you are going the stroker route then you are looking at dropping a few grand for internals and you will need a standalone or use a wrx or sti ecu with matching heads and intake mani, sensors, etc.

Here you go: http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/tech.html It's legacy777 from bbslegacycentral's personal website.

Here are some pics of what they look like: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/engine-clicking-fix-replace-kill-firei-191227.html If it is totally collapsed it is easy to spot. Some of them might also be slightly collapsed but can be bled. Although I think it is best just to replace the worn out ones so you don't have to deal with them for a long time. I didn't replace all of mine though. They aren't too expensive $6-8. They are really easy to get at and you don't need to mess with the motor mounts at all. Just flip open the plastic guard flaps underneath the heads and you will have plenty of room to work. Jack stands help too of course.