monkeyposeur

Joe, I forget, is that a 20G or 20K? You gonna do a RobTune? Rob has 4to2 conversion harnesses for sale.

Congrats Joe! Married, no kids, but I have some awesome dogs. Retired racing greyhounds I rescued! http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/Mobile%20Uploads/A3D573EA-01FE-4004-9F02-8F7F72259315_zpsu8zd8zvm.jpg I told my wife I like fast cars, fast dogs, and slow women. So the starter was making some wierd noises on the turbo legacy. I thought it was the battery, had it tested. Test said the battery was fine. So I installed a reman starter and it would just click once. Only way to get it to crank was to jump a wire to the solenoid. Then it kinda worked. So I returned the reman starter for another one and bought a nice Bosch battery to replace the crappy Walmart NeverStart. Now she cranks up right away! Not sure if the old battery just tested fine but was not putting out enough amps or what. But the old starter had 190k on it. I replaced the contacts in it a couple years ago and got some more life out of it. I have the 4EAT 16 flashes of death so I'm ordering a new duty c solenoid. That's gonna be a bitch to replace. I was thinking about replacing the clutch packs while I'm in there but you have to measure the first selective pressure plate to determine which set of plates to order which means the car would be down for a week or so. So I'll just replace the solenoid and see if the torque bind goes away, measure the plate and then I'll have that info for later.

Nice man! Did you get the turbocharged Liberty?

Just spent three days in 103+ degree heat keeping my wife's SS alive. Still more work to do. So about two years ago I replaced the alternator since it started to smoke and almost caught fire while I had the alternator tested. There was a slight squeaking noise after I replaced it and I figured it was squeaky alternator bearings since the belt was snug and tightnening/loosening it didn't change the noise. Then the AC compressor went out. New AC compressors for first gens are $770. I was super lucky and found a new in box compressor for $150 that sat in some warehouse since 1993. I installed it, and converted it for the RF134a, and had the dealer charge it up. AC worked amazing but the squeaking noise got louder. I began to suspect the AC bearings sat for a long time and so they were noisy. If I turned the AC off, the noise went away. So I figured the compressor was the source. I was bummed and figured my AC would go out soon. A couple months ago my wife called and said her power steering and AC quit working. I figured the AC compressor finally seized. She brought the car home and when I turned the AC on a horrible noise ensued and the compressor would stop spinning. So I was pretty sure the compressor seized up. If the AC was off the power steering worked. So I told her not to use the AC. I started to pull everything off to attempt to replace the magnetic clutch on the AC compressor. I loosened the AC belt and the AC started to work again!!! It was accompanied by a horrible screeching noise though. I pulled the AC and power steering belt off and I realized the crank pulley was SEPARATED IN TWO!!!! The inner assembly was spinning inside the outer assembly! That was what was making the horrible noise and not allowing the AC and power steering to work at the same time!!! The driver's side cam seal has been leaking since I pulled the engine to do the headgaskets. It's been stinky for years and smokes when you get into boost. Since I had the crank pulley off I removed the timing belt and replaced the seal. There was a slight score on the camshaft that must have been causing the leak. I sanded it smooth and replaced the seal and put the timing back together. I then installed my replacement crank pulley. Everything worked great!!! AC worked, oil leak was gone. Then I noticed my oil pan is cracked. So I drained the oil and JB welded the crack. It's still weeping so I have to replace the oil pan now. But I have a spare so at least I have the part but it is a bitch to replace so I'm saving that job for next month. Now it was time to drain the ATF since I never have and the POWER light is flashing. The fluid was brown and nasty. And I am getting torque bind. So I did a drain and fill and decided to do another drain and fill. I pulled the trans plug after the first drain and fill and no fluid came out. I realized that I put ATF int the front diff. Drained the front diff and added new gear oil. Then I filled up the trans with ATF in the right spot. Did another drain and fill and the fluid is now red. While under there I realized my wife's tires are shot. Even though I told her to rotate them and stuff, she didn't so now they tires are ruined and probably not helping the torque bind. Pulled the trans code and the Duty C solenoid valve is bad so I am ordering that and replacing the clutch pack in the rear housing next week or so. ****, that's going to suck. Then my wife told me her subs aren't working. Fixed some wires and her subs work but now two of her speakers are blown. But good news is I received almost everything I need to install a new TD04 and XT tmic. I have to make a block off plate for the BPV and fab up the y-pipe and stuff but then I'm going to turn up the boost to 13 psi. Also I found a perfect 3" to 2.5" reducer for my coffee can mod!!! I'll post a writeup of the TD04/XT tmic install and the coffee can mod when I'm finished so we have one on this forum. Whew, what a novel. This SS can be a pain in the ass sometimes but my wife loves it and I think it is worth keeping around.

Cool! I'm doing my first autocross next weekend.

Have you bled the system yet? The clutch pedal won't come back up unless you have the transmission installed and have bled the clutch line. Bleeding the slave cylinder is a bitch unless you get a brake speed bleeder screw. Then it's a piece of cake.

If you're bent on getting 300whp out of your build then just get a Blouch 20g xt and some ID 1000ccs and run a conservative tune and have plenty of headroom for later. I'm getting 340 whp 280 tq out of mine without maxing it out. But sounds like this is just your winter beater so VF39 is a good choice for a fun daily. I haven't used emanage ultimate so nothing to say there. But of course the better option is a wiring harness merge with an 02-03 WRX so at least you can tune the damn thing properly with opensource, haha. I'd ditch the cometics and just use OEM MLS HGs unless the Cometics are gonna get you a specific compression you are after. I'd also consider using OEM bearings instead of ACLs. ACLs are good and all, but had some quality issues not too long ago. STi oil pan is better than the WRX oil pan so if you can just get the STi setup. Get a Moroso oil pick up while you are at it for peace of mind. It's not as pretty as the Killer B but beefy and super nice. I deleted my stupid rubber roof protector rails and just used bondo and glazing compound. Five years later and no cracks. I spent a ton of time getting the frame straight, sanding, bondo-ing, glazing, primer-ing, painting... lol. Yeah it takes a ton of time to do it right. I wouldn't rice it at all. People will assume it is slow just cause it is an old subie. What 20g are you running on your BRZ? 300 hp seems a bit low at your altitude for a 20g unless you have an older, smaller 20g. All in all seems you have a good handle on what you are doing! Keep up the good work man!

That's at the wheels! Not bad for a motor I built in my basement! Mod list: Engine: EJ22T from USDM 1993 Touring Wagon w/160k (Furiously pulled from neighbor's scrap car minutes before it was junked. Exposed to the elements for a few years with intake manifold removed.) Decked, bored, honed, all passages scrubbed clean, drilled/tapped for oversized EJ205 starter bolt. 90 degree crankcase breather removed & hole plugged with NAPA freeze plug (part no. 381-3193). EJ22T oil squirters w/new aluminum washers from McMaster Carr (Cobbled from two sets. Pressure tested with compressed air, red loctite applied to threads) Stock EJ22T crank (measured and within FSM tolerances, polished) Reconditioned STi rods New OEM 22T/22E main and rod bearings Wiseco .020 forged pistons & rings K601M975 (rings gapped according to manufacturer recommendation), 8.5:1, .003 manufacturer reccommeded PTW Stock 22T oil 10mm pump (clearances checked, disassembled, cleaned, red loctite applied to rotor assembly screws) EJ205 Oil cooler/warmer OEM EJ25D MLS Head Gaskets (Part no. 1104AA610) Gates timing belt kit (pulleys, water pump) New OEM pcv lines/vacuum lines Grimmspeed TMIC w/Grimmspeed y-pipe kit Heads: JDM non AVCS EJ205 castings chamber matched by hand to 2.2 bore, decked, cleaned. OEM valves STi single AVCS intake and exhaust cams (AVCS holes plugged) STi valve springs, retainers, etc. Shimless buckets (lash set at .008 intake, .010 exhaust) Intake/exhuast: TGV deletes (ported) SPT short ram intake Godspeed ebay silicone turbo inlet (reinforced with large hose clamps) Grimmspeed 3mm intake manifold phenolic spacers w/2 OEM intake manifold gaskets 2.5" titanium heat wrapped shorty catless downpipe to 2.5" shorty midpipe (not sure of brand. Bought used years ago) 3" SPT catback exhaust/muffler Catless uppipe from 93 Turbo legacy Engine Management: 03 WRX ecu Grimmspeed EBCS Opensource etune by Phatron (He's the man! ) AEM 30-4100 UEGO gauge Turbo: Blouch 20g XT SPT Heat shield DIY turbo blanket Fueling: 91 Craptane AEM 320 lph (AEM 50-1000) Injector Dynamics 1000cc Suspension/handling/trans: JDM WRX 5MT Trans w/4.444 FD TY754VBBAA OEM Exedy Clutch Kit SPT front strut tower brace STi rear strut tower brace Whiteline adjustable rear sway bar Group N engine and transmission mounts Kartboy shifter and crossmember bushings Kartboy front and rear endlinks Whiteline steering rack bushings STi short throw shifter Braking: Stoptech SS brake lines (front & rear) Stoptech Street Pads Cooling: Koyo all aluminum radiator SPT radiator shroud All new OEM coolant/radiator hoses OEM thermostat

In case anyone is curious, here is a log I took this morning of how much hp you can get on a 22T/205 hybrid @ 4200 ft. http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/Mobile%20Uploads/3892D6C3-F27C-41B6-B1AD-48402607EA8C_zps0yuqy9q3.png I'm still working with my tuner so this isn't the final revision but suffice to say I am pretty damn psyched. Nice power curve, eh?

I'd definitely replace the bushings. I like my whitelines. Might as well replace the tie rods while you are at it.

^The 4EAT isn't too bad. Once you do the power mode mod it's pretty cool. Revs up to 6k between shifts.

Download the first gen FSM here: http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/tech.html Missing a few sections though. I have a WRX shifter linkage in my shed I don't need if you are interested. I also have a mint WRX pedal assembly that I bought for $100 that I don't need. The shifter linkage came from a JDM 5MT that I bought to swap into my WRX and I had an STi short throw installed already. If you wanted to use the WRX pedal assembly you would need to use a WRX or STi clutch master and slave to make it work.

Awesome!!! Thanks for the pics!

Looks sick!!! Are you going to get a hood scoop for the 20g or go front mount?

That's a good video. The hooked rod he uses to pull the wrist pins out isn't necessary though. I didn't want to make one so I found a long 1/4" rod and you can push that through the opposite wrist pin access hole and thread it through the block and tap the wrist pin out. It works great.

Hallelujah! That took longer than my 22t build, lol. Looks amazing!!! Now what?!?

Thanks GTEASER! Looking at my most recent log I am at 200 whp on a slight incline @ 5.4k. I'll post some more dyno graphs as the tune progresses and I go back out to the Great Salt Lake where the roads are nice and flat. I use a freeway on ramp near my house for safe 3rd gear datalogging so I should graph higher whp on the flats.

Thanks man! It was a long road to get to this point with all the setbacks but it was worth it. Yeah, a 16g would probably be the perfect turbo for this build. The TD04 doesn't utilize the full advantage of the STi cams I installed. But it's still a great turbo. I had a mint TD04 and didn't want to invest in a larger turbo until I was sure the built 22T was working properly. I can swap te TD04 over to the SS when I get the upgraded turbo w/supporting mods. I did a 'hard break in'. I idled it for 10 minutes first start up on cheap Walmart 5w30 dino oil. Dumped it and changed the filter. Flashed the base map, drove it around easy for 20 minutes. Scaled the MAF while revving to 4k, lots of engine braking, scaled the MAF again, flashed a revision, and started beating on it. We're on revision 9 or 10 and I'm driving it like I stole it. Once I get up to 500 miles I'll dump the second round of 5w30 dino oil and switch to 0w40 synthetic. With the Wiseco forged pistons it's not any louder than a stock motor which is surprising. It's actually pretty quiet. Group N motor and trans mounts, Kartboy shifter bushings, and Whiteline steering rack bushings added a lot of NVH but I'm getting used to it pretty quick.

Got my 22T/205 hybrid running in the 03 WRX!!! It's pretty awesome. I'm putting down 191 whp in third gear @ 4500 rpm and 220 lbsft of torque @ 16.5 psi @ 4500 ft above sea level on 91 octane. My tuner is Phatron of Phatbotti tuning and I highly recommend him if anyone needs an etune if they have the ability to tune with acessport or open source. I know that this build is in an 03 WRX but the heart is first gen closed deck 22T! http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/Mobile%20Uploads/e1c722d4-368c-4f05-98e6-2d993b9b4954_zpsegynqigw.jpg Here is a virtual dyno graph. We're still tuning it but it feels like a beast. Easily get 100+ mph super quick in 3rd gear revving to 7k. Not sure about final whp but feels like I'm getting close to maxing out the td04. I love the quick spool and loads of torque. I'm considering upgrading to a 16 or 18g, possibly a DOM 1.5 XTR but so far I couldn't be happier! http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/3rd%20gear%20pull%206800k_zpsrnf2w8vk.jpg

The ring gaps aren't much different from forged pistons. The PTW clearances are much tighter on OEM vs. forged though. .001 or so for OEMs and about .003 for forged. Different piston material for each so different expansion rates.

22T/205 hybrid update. If you want something done right you gotta do it yourself. Started chamber matching the 205 heads to the 22T bore. It's not that difficult if you're careful and have used dremels or routers or carved wood and shit. Gotta focus like hell and be aware of body position though. Interestingly, after examining the stock 22T combustion chambers are the exact same diameter as 205 heads which means they don't match the bore of the 22T. Lots of people run stock 205 heads on 22T blocks w/o chamber matching. Now it makes sense why 20G heads are a good swap for 22T heads. I was talking to the owner of the machine shop who did some work for me recently (they fixed another shops careless work). He built sprint cars and has an engine dyno. I mention the dyno because he said he did a lot of stuff that he thought made a difference, but when he got an engine dyno he realized a lot of his practices based on others opinions didn't do shit. Anyway, he said most of the power and torque from head work came from flow around the valves in the combustion chamber, not necessarily from porting the intake. First I brushed on some chem marker stuff, then I set my dial calipers to 2.5mm and scribed a line around the chambers. Then I set them to 3mm which gives me the final 97mm bore. I used the inside of my 3M painters tape roll as a guide for the curve into the quench pad. I initially set it to 2.5 mm so I have 1mm of extra material to clean up with sanding bits. http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/Mobile%20Uploads/4F4E6F27-4352-400A-A1E4-A6452CD260AC_zpszqjhhtsh.jpg Then mask everything off with tape to the inside line. If you're careful and use small pieces of tape you can perfectly mask your outline. http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/Mobile%20Uploads/068EC3AB-F1DE-4027-9B66-19EFB969187D_zpspb4bquqy.jpg I got a sweet die grinder and a good assortment of bits. I ended up only using one bit for the bulk of the work but the rest of the bits will come in handy for the exhaust port work coming up. http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/Mobile%20Uploads/8D93E04B-6DF6-4BCE-9F7B-0872EA83C162_zps6hyov9jz.jpg It got dark so I had to stop. Tomorrow I'll smooth everything out with stones and sanding drums and check the CC of each chamber. http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/Mobile%20Uploads/C05F7FA2-3011-4704-AE44-C897A4735A48_zpsgd3ekqi5.jpg

Installed KYB GR2s and H&R sport springs. I love the drop and how it handles. Pretty comfy ride, not harsh at all. I was on stock rear struts and blown out KYBs in the front. I hit 181k recently so stuff needed replacing. Next up are swaybar and steering rack bushings, and tie rods. Then I swapped in a WRX MOMO steering wheel. The wiring was tricky but everything works. SS is begging for bigger wheels now, lol.

Stop being in such a rush joe!

Do it! The word should get out. I gave them so many chances to make this right. I offered to compromise, told the owner we could work something out, etc. Instead they stole my property. Unbelievable!

Well, I'm in the process of filing a small claims court claim against the shop. They asked me to bring the 205 heads back up to the shop and they were going to take them to their machine shop to get looked over. After I did that they won't answer their phone, respond to texts, or emails. I filed a dispute with Paypal to recover the money I gave them to do the chamber matching. It has been three weeks since I have heard from them. I called the machine shop and they didn't have any heads that matched my description. I found a set of JDM 205 heads locally, so I am in the process of switching them over to shimless buckets and installing STi cams. I'm going to chamber match them myself. I was a violin maker for 10 years before I became a molecular biologist so I am pretty sure I can pull it off, lol. I am pretty pissed at the shop. Paradise Auto in Centerville Utah. The owner is Matt En, and JD Youngblood is the guy who ruined the heads. Do not trust these guys!!! Sucks I have to sue them. Now I'm out $1700 because of these jerks, not including the cost of the JDM heads I just bought, which I had to resurface, plus the cost of converting them to shimless buckets. I'll post up some pics when I get a chance.