monkeyposeur

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/Mobile%20Uploads/5FF86DEF-E1DA-4046-9EEC-DDB57FA1FD2D_zpsnaezlxoh.jpg Stock SS downpipe next to the MRT dp. Looks like they join the midpipe at different angles. It's supposed to be a direct fit but will require some welding to the flanges. http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/Mobile%20Uploads/FE162230-266E-48AA-AE25-1EDAA0B6A700_zps9jcxj82x.jpg Hope I can get it to fit. http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/Mobile%20Uploads/CAAF29C6-F499-477E-9B9D-9360E98424BC_zpsykzkwdts.jpg The split bell mouth plate is a few millimeters too long for a TD04. I'll have to grind it off a bit to get it to mate properly. http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/Mobile%20Uploads/22DB1DE0-87E5-429A-87BC-CC4E967454D1_zpsmrrknnpa.jpg A close up of the gap. Overall the welds could be prettier but looks to be made out of good materials.

I dusted off the spare 22T and dropped it off at the machine shop to be bored for Wisecos. Stock phase 1 Crank is getting polished. http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/Mobile%20Uploads/17858A9E-60B2-4C55-ACF0-BDD501D678FD_zpswlz1bkaa.jpg One oil squirter fell out somewhere and the other three almost came out just by looking at them. I'll definitely use locktite when I put them back in. I have a set of spare squirters too. I might rig up something to make sure they are opening around the same psi. http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/Mobile%20Uploads/94B94CD0-A430-452D-81D0-DCEB6F5A9A79_zpso77haqco.jpg The block had about 165k on it. The mains looked almost new so I'm pretty sure I can use ACL Duraglides or OEMs. http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/Mobile%20Uploads/8FF6E7F7-F2C5-4825-B39B-9BB2FF852B0E_zpsup0axqps.jpg I'll be replacing the rods with STi rods. But the stockers also looked to be in great shape. http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/Mobile%20Uploads/E00DDB55-7ED1-4499-85A3-97FB2566C180_zpsn9nixxtl.jpg I'll drop off a set of stock heads to get surfaced and new valve seals when I go to pick up the block. I have two sets so I'll have to dig them out and see which set looks better.

I am super paranoid about MAFs since they have given me so much trouble. I recommend you guys get new ones if possible if you are still having hesitation issues, but they will set you back $130. You'd probably be ok from what I read on bbs iirc, but I'm waiting until I install a tmic to turn it up.

I forget, did you guys check or swap your MAFs?

I had vibration under braking from a bad ball joint.

I have a set of those I need to rebuild. How did you know the pistons were bad?

I posted the FSM procedure for bleeding the HLAs here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/1998-legacy-2-2l-timing-jumped-engine-gone-help-replacement-192029p3.html And some pics of the process here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/engine-clicking-fix-replace-kill-firei-191227.html

I did the power mode on my SS and it is a must do if you have a 4EAT. all you do is ground pin 4 of the tcu. You have to go to the junkyard and get the proper pin size since there are two sizes for the tcu. Then wide a simple toggle switch. I figured of how to make a switch that also had an led: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/rocker-switch-question-198670.html Turning the switch also leaves you locked in 50:50 so switch it off when you hit the freeway for better mpgs, lol. I decided I didn't need to do a 5MT swap after I did the mod since it made the car so much more fun (and since I gave it to my wife and she loves the 4eat). Stomp on pedal - go fast!!! Holds shifts almost up to 6k.

Looks awesome! What wheels are those? Are you still on stock suspension? You probably*know this but stock wrx dps are the same diameter as stock SS exhaust. Are you wanting to go catless? My exhaust is on the way from California and should be here Tuesday. The box weighs 75 pounds and was $230 to ship! The seller though it would cost about $30. I feel bad so I'm going to split the costs with him so he doesn't have to eat it all.

There was another 5mt with a bad gear with a vlsd. It would be a bitch to ship though. You can have one of my clutch assemblies and the SS pedal assembly but if I were you I'd just get a wrx assembly and get a jdm trans. From what I've been told the wrx clutch assembly shifts better than the SS. And if my SS 5mt breaks it was super cheap and I'll just get a jdm replacement. Or if you want to wait you can have my cable actuated 95 trans and all it's supporting components but you'll have to wait until I swap in the SS trans in the spring.

I filled up my BK with a bunch of SS bits. http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/Mobile%20Uploads/A71995B5-1B64-47B8-8E21-A33F86AF6FD4_zpsmdycwpyc.jpg Rough list: SS 5MT, two headlights, two corner lights, 8 SS axles, stock BPV, SS pedal assembly, two clutch cylinders w/slaves, WRX clutch cylinder and slave, MOMO wrx steering wheel, IACV, SS intake mani w/injectors and tb, WRX pedal assembly, 92 SS rear struts (taking off top hats and junking the struts), 3.900 VLSD , mbc, Mitsubishi eclipse BOV lol. I Was also given an SS 4EAT and will have to make another trip and pick it up. My wife loves her 4EAT so I'll rebuild the spare 4EAT to handle moar horsez. It is a comfy trans I must say. The 5MT was filthy so I took it to the car wash. http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/Mobile%20Uploads/EF8C3028-D694-4B9A-8C41-3B74D13C007A_zpsdevy8ud2.jpg It was hard to unload but waaaaay harder to get back in the wagon. I'm a little dude and the trans weighs quite a bit more than I do. Took me about five tries to get it back in. I almost asked some crackheads for help. http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/Mobile%20Uploads/C2FD6809-A29D-4802-B433-D0130BCA4771_zpsb7yn3f91.jpg It looks a lot better after a rough cleaning. After I got it back in I noticed a poor gal who needed a jump so got her car started and went home to make room in the shed for the trans. http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/Mobile%20Uploads/BE6C6182-781B-4CC1-9003-1E59070335F1_zpsnoqm051w.jpg Prettty psyched to have found this. There were two maybe I can get the other one someday, ha ha. http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/Mobile%20Uploads/CCDA4DB1-7A69-4445-9F92-80E8E6CCCA1F_zpshchjg3az.jpg Got a furniture mover at HF strapped it down. http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/Mobile%20Uploads/9B48526A-433E-4F15-B050-0B131A215953_zps41m32r7t.jpg WRX pedal assemble next to SS assembly. They are almost identical. If I have time someday I'll show the minor differences. http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/Mobile%20Uploads/9920BE0D-8BE1-4FB1-8012-7F38EDB23328_zpsd7lbinh1.jpg WRX clutch cylinder vs SS clutch cylinder. The SS clutch assembly has a larger reservoir and some other ungainly parts. The WRX assembly is much simpler and apparently much improved over the SS. http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/Mobile%20Uploads/FEF97E2F-E9C0-4CDD-B2AF-7C806EAE715A_zpsj28vfcmq.jpg Here you can see how different the transmission mounting brackets are. http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/Mobile%20Uploads/FCCB4828-7DC0-404B-9FB9-5184D7F178E4_zpspzuw6iiq.jpg I shifted through all the gears and put it in the shed for later. All gears turn smoothly. I tested it side by side today with another SS MT that had a bad first gear and it was easy to feel the broken teeth. That's all for today, lol.

Yep!!! That's the ad. It's on bbslegacycentral too. The seller is quick to respond and has fair prices and judging by the awesome deal I was able to get very motivated to sell. I'll let you guys know how much I paid when I receive the exhaust, but it was less than his asking price. I want the Whiteline sways BAD too but I have to keep temptation at bay, lol. I first contacted him about the robtune package he had for sale, but it was gone quick. I can't wait to install that bad boy!!! I asked about the TD05 and it has very slight shaft play but is in great condition and apparently the play isn't out of the ordinary being a journal bearing turbo. I think the TD05 might be a bit too much for the stock ecu and MAF.

Not to make anyone jealous but this is getting shipped to me on Monday. http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/Power%20Steering%20Pump/7FB56FB3-B116-4A2B-9DDC-7C9B74A6BEE2_zpsccwyzjor.jpg http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/Power%20Steering%20Pump/925231CA-A7B9-4873-8CF3-7D06B86D9557_zpsdyf5oysi.jpg http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/Power%20Steering%20Pump/5DAB3A09-57A8-41F5-B880-3790B7ACD207_zpsrad5v54c.jpg http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/Power%20Steering%20Pump/97CC5511-3D34-48D7-8B51-04542C937751_zps5m5lgstk.jpg http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/Power%20Steering%20Pump/0F1C47F4-79C1-4FC0-8DC8-A1792D72A3C6_zpssumicaep.jpg MTP Turboback 3" stainless sexhaust made specifically for an SS. Made to bolt right up!!! I was planning on machining my 22t spare shortblock but couldn't pass on this.

Yes, it clearly says VLSD on the identification plate on the back of the diff. Pretty psyched to have gotten my hands on one for cheap.

I'm picking up an SS 5MT transmission next week w/VLSD! I am going to swap it into my second gen in the spring if all goes well. I figure the stock 5MT won't hold up very well when I finish building my 22T/205. I am going to use a WRX pedal set and WRX master cylinder. May have found one locally. I could get the driveshaft from the SS trans, but I'm not sure I need it. Anyone know if my second gen driveshaft will swap over to the SS trans? I'm guessing it will but it would be nice to confirm.

How did it sound with the MRT? Also, are there any cons to running a full 3" Turboback exhaust? Or is it better to go with a 3" DP and 2.5" after? Would the full 3" hurt spool or not allow proper backpressure? This is on a stock SS, BTW. TD04 will be going in a few months.

What's a rocker?

I replaced the two heater core hoses today alongnwith new hose clamps. They were the last coolant hoses that I hadn't replaced. Of course no good deed goes unpunished... http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/Power%20Steering%20Pump/D8DE5A61-F86A-4E48-9692-2C3216829E8E_zpsvjuxgttm.jpg When I fired it back up to check for leaks I could see coolant spraying from one of the coolant nipples. The new heater core hose was applying pressure to it and it was so rotten it too much force for it to take. http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/Power%20Steering%20Pump/F8FE43AF-D1D0-4587-9FF6-DC8BB583A86C_zpsmkiqxvtz.jpg I knew the crappy plastic tank would break at some point so I have a couple wrx coolant tanks as backup. I'll relocate the tank next to the ABS pump which will allow me plenty of room for the XT intercooler. I will use this DIY from bbs as a guide: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=34608 Wrx tank next to stock for comparison: http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/Power%20Steering%20Pump/B773FAA0-D1AB-4F94-8DDA-19229E2C886B_zpswyqclh3p.jpg

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/Power%20Steering%20Pump/IMG_26821_zps245f6007.jpg I finally fixed my power steering pump leak! Part no. 31266GA020. No more smoking cylinder head, lol. What sucks is last winter it was super cold so I took the SS in for an oil change and asked them to change the seal and even gave them the OEM seal. They called me back and said I gave them the wrong one and that they had replaced it. Well the leak never went away. Turns out they never replaced it. The seal was super old and brittle. They must have replaced one of the line seals. I got some new Blizzaks too!!! So grippy! It's awesome. While it was getting the tires installed I asked them to check the alternator and it started smoldering while they had it on the lift. Luckily I was able to find a replacement alternator at the parts store that night and installed it the next morning. And while the alternator was out I was able to replace the oil sending unit which was weeping. http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/IMG_27041_zpsca296ebe.jpg http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/IMG_27111_zpsa056664d.jpg Then I ran a couple more ground lines to the negative terminal of the battery. Then it was time to remove the starter and see what the problem was. The contacts were worn paper thin. Replaced those and it starts right up! I'll do a write up since I couldn't really find a good one with lots of pics. Removing the starter is kind of a bitch the first time. http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/IMG_25781_zpsdff7d7b0.jpg You can see how worn the negative contact is!!! http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/IMG_25891_zpsfc627bf4.jpg New contacts installed! http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/IMG_26061_zpsca050a9c.jpg They were about $2.00. I could have replaced the plunger contact as well but it is pretty thick so I just cleaned it up with a wire brush. Starter works great again! So in the past couple weeks I have replaced the purge valve ($80), MAF ($140), oil sending unit ($30), alternator ($130), Blizzaks ($520), power steering pump o-ring ($2.50), and the oil ($26), boost gauge sending unit ($26), lol. While I was under the car I may have found a small HG leak. Not sure though but it looks like coolant and oil are barely leaking. Maybe it was dripping from somewhere else, idk. I cleaned the area off so I'll take a look in a little bit. Car runs fine though but I hope it isn't the start of a leak since I replaced them not too long ago. Boost gauge still doesn't work even with the new sending unit. I'm going to do some diagnostic tests with ProSport but I probably should just get a Defi and be done with it. And unfortunately my drivers side cam seal is leaking (replaced less than two years ago, there may be a slight score on the cam shaft or something). I don't feel like replacing it at the moment.

I had my battery checked and it was bad which was the cause of my starting issue, lol. The tech at PepBoys told me that the battery was from WalMart and was still under warranty. I headed down there and took the battery inside and they looked up the serial number and it was two weeks past warranty so I had to buy one. I was checking online and someone said that they just get their WalMart battery checked the month before the battery is not under warranty and they get a new one that starts with a new three year warranty so I'll try that. My Prosport boost gauge quit working. I talked to Prosport and they said the sending unit was bad so I ordered and installed a new sending unit. Still doesn't work. So I'll talk to them again today and see what they say. It worked great for a few years and I got it for free so I can't complain too much. I'd like a better gauge like a Defi but I don't feel like shelling out $200. I also fixed my PowerMode switch. Now I need to fix that power steering leak...

I installed my new MAF last night and my hesitation issue went away as I had hoped, but the intermittent rough idle was still there which I thought the MAF would take care of. I checked all the vacuum lines a few times (they are all new and replaced), and couldn't find anything. I was about to give up and then I saw the spark plug boot near the power steering pump was poking up an bit. The engine was running and I pushed it back in and the rough idle ceased. I took it around the block and the rough idle came back. I pulled the boot out and the tip was covered in brown sludge. I went to the parts store and purchased 1 NGK V Power plug (Part no. BKR6E11 - the ONLY plugs to use on an SS!!!). I pulled the plug and it seemed like it came out really easy, not tight at all. The top of the plug where it connects to the boot was clean, but below that and towards the crush washer it was covered in brown sludge. Also, the tip of the plug was black and sooty. Installed the new plug and she was running like a champ again! I have a pretty bad power steering leak so I think it may have leaked down and fouled the plug??? Or perhaps it was loose so oil was getting through or compression leak??? Any opinions? I couldn't tell if the sludge was steering fluid or oil. But the new MAF was definitely a huge improvement. Before I replaced it power mode never came on unless I hit my power mode switch that I installed but now if I go WOT it comes in instantly. Butt dyno feels like the car is faster than it has ever been. So if any of you have a bad MAF I would advise not to get a junkyard replacement like mine but to just buy a reman. So now I need to fix the power steering leak. But while I was under the car poking around I also found a fairly massive leak on the driver's side cam seal. It is a steady drip. Which sucks since I replaced it when I rebuilt the motor. Maybe the camshaft is scored or something. Too bad it is such a PITA to replace.

Too bad cleaning my MAF didn't do squat.

Your issues sound a lot like a bad MAF. I sound like a broken record but the MAFs crapping out have been a thorn in my side. The same thing happened to my SS both times my MAF went bad. The first time I thought it was a fuel pump at first so I replaced it, and I still think it was a dying pump. It helped, but didn't cure the problem. I had multiple issues going on at once so that was fun. The first MAF crapped out around 165k, and the second junkyard MAF lasted me about a year. I should be getting a reman MAF tomorrow and hopefully she'll be tearing it up again. Unfortunately, that also means I have to give it back to my wife. I've been happy with my Walbro for almost two years.

Sounds Awesome! You need a build thread so we can see all the details!!!

Just curious, do you have a manual or an auto transmission? There is a specific MAF for each type. The aluminum housing MAF (22680AA170) is for turbo leggys and 5MTs. I have been curious as to how well the car would run with the "wrong" MAF type. I just ordered a new MAF as well, it will be my third. Can't find any at the junkyard so I had to bite the bullet. It was $160 but a lot less than the $380 the dealer wanted.