monkeyposeur

About a week ago I picked up an 06 OB XT w/5MT! It's super clean even though it has 186k miles on the chassis. Interior is about an 8.7 out of 10, Looks almost brand new. Exterior is about an 8.7 as well. A couple tiny dings but that's about it. The engine is leaking from every seal, as you'd expect a Subaru with this many miles, haha. I'm going to pull the engine in a couple months when it warms up and replace all seals, hoses, vacuum lines, etc. Refresh the heads, and do the HGs. If the block seems janky I'll throw in a new OEM SB or maybe just replace the bearings, a light hone, and throw in some new piston rings. I'm not looking to do a crazy high HP build on the XT. I have the 360 whp bugeye for that, haha. The XT is meant to be a desert camping vehicle to get to the climbing crags I love. So I am planning on a 1" Subtle Solutions lift, some Method or Sparco 15" rims, and some big tires (maybe Geolanders). I'll throw on some KYB-AGXs or Excel G too. Thought about getting King springs, but the reports of them slowly compressing to stock spring height has me concerned, so I'll probably keep the stock springs. Once I get the motor out, I'll decide on what I want to do with the VF40. At the very least I'll replace the center cartridge. Maybe a vf52, but the BNR EVo3 16g looks pretty good and isn't that much. An upgraded tmic would be nice, but I don't think it's necessary for my power goals. I'll at least bulletproof it. Also gonna ditch the catted uppipe and replace the clutch. And get some HIDs (haven't looked into that for the XT headlights yet, but I've retrofitted HID projectors into JDM headlights before so I can figure it out). Then a big ass roof basket for gear and that should about do it. Already has a trailer hitch. Anyway, looking forward to working on it and dumping $$$ down the toilet. I'm trying to keep myself from throwing in an IAG block and a 20g lol. I really like the VF40 for a daily though. The range is better than a TD04 for sure, and it doesn't have the lag of my 20G-XT that's in the bugeye. If anyone has any catback recomendations let me know. The seem pretty damn expensive but that's probably due to the fact that the XT has two mufflers. Unfortuantely I think I am going to sell my beloved '93 Turbo Legacy finally. Never thought I would sell it. It's taught me everything I know about Subarus, but it's time has come. :'(

Yeah, that's a bit different. I sent you a pm about the 22T IACV. I have a couple extras and can send you one whenever. I might have asked you this already but I didn't think the 20G ECU could run a 20K. I think the ESL standalone boards are pretty sweet.

Maybe the 20K one is the same as the 20G/22T one. What does it look like?

On your list it shows that you need a 20G ECU and an aluminum housing MAF. The 20G ECU requires the JECS Green plastic housing MAF (also found on 1st Gen 4EAT Legacies). You also state that you need a 20G IACV. I think this is the same as an EJ22T IACV. If that's the case I have a couple extra. The electronic portion on the top is the same as an NA Legacy IACV, but the water port is not. However, if you have an EJ22T IACV housing, you can swap the electronic portion over easily. I have a couple of 22T IACVs with and w/o electronics. Hit me up if you want one.

Any updates?

Replaced my center diff and transfer gear bearings. Took about 9 hours.

Hello, what's this? And some glass EDMs with leveling switch!!!

My 93 Turbo legacy was accelerating on it's own without pressing the gas pedal. My wife called me and told me the car was possessed. She had to use the brakes to keep it from going too fast and had a scary time getting it home with our two dogs. In park it would idle up to 5k and keep climbing. I thought it was probably a bad IACV so I dismantled the airbox and removed the 90* elbow to get at it. When I was removing the PCV hose the F-tube cracked. It is the only old OEM PCV line I had left on the car. I knew then that my day was about to get longer and more complicated fabricating a new one. I then had to partially dismantle the turbo to have enough room to get at the crankcase breather and even then it took me a good hour to get the stupid hose off. The IACV wasn't too sticky but I cleaned it with carb cleaner. I hit up the auto parts store and used some 3/4" silicone hose and a reducer hose to use up the remnants of the f-tube. I replaced the top of the IACV (I have three spare IACVs) for good measure. While hooking everything back up and still at a loss for why the car was acting funny I discovered that the TPS wiring was all cracked and twisted allowing the wires to short out! I taped up the cracks and marine grade heat shrinked the wires. Put everything back together and the car is running flawlessly again! Super cold out today but I'm glad I got it fixed and running again. http://i.imgur.com/WlAZusF.jpg

That's interesting. I was under the impression that the EJ20K injectors flowed less than yellow top EJ20G injectors but from your chart your set looks equal to 20Gs.

^Did you get glass EDMs? I have a set from Finland stuck in customs right now.

Look at the diagram of the 22T setup that I posted on the previous page. I don't see why you can't get a BPV adapter plate like is in the pic and get it to work. That is what I am going to do with my setup.

As long as it clears behind the power steering pump I think you would be fine. That is why there is that long angled bend on the end of the stock inlet. It clears on my WRX and the power steering pump is in the same spot. That's my guess anyway. I think this short ram is a good choice for first gens: https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/short-ram-air-intakes/ape-507-f001-apexi-power-intake-jdm-subaru-ver-1-2-wrx-sti-1993-1996 I prefer the stock airbox setup though since you do suck in hot engine bay air with s short ram. But I loved the response and sounds when I was running an SPT short ram on my 03 WRX with a td04. I think the hot engine bay air is more problematic when I ran a bigger turbo because I was having large temperature fluctuations in between pulls when I was getting my road tune which mad it hard to dial in the timing.

That inlet looks most similar to an 02-07 WRX/STi inlet, although a bit different. The angle of the large end that connects to the airbox/filter is not a 90* like on the wrx/sti. The EJ20G inlet is almost identical to the EJ22T inlet and required a 90* upward bend on the actual turbo inlet. The JDM TD04 and TD05 that was on the EJ20G had a metal 90* on the turbo. The EJ20G/22T rubber inlets are really hard to find but not too hard to make one out of silicone parts from siliconeintakes.com. What is going to matter is what kind of airbox setup you end up using. Do you have the EJ20k stock airbox? Or are you going to use a sort ram intake? I think you could get a cheap noname ebay brand intake to work for an 02-07 like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-WRX-STi-Turbo-Inlet-Hose-02-07-Inlet-Intake-Silicone-Piping-Pipe-Kit/171174792308?hash=item27dad00c74:g:tMYAAOSwnDZT~gyn&vxp=mtr. Some people hate on these cheap ebay inlets but I have had no issues with mine and I am at 350 whp on a 20G-XT. It has all the same breather ports as yours. So I guess my main point is it depends on what airbox/short ram setup you are going with. Short ram is OK, but I ditched mine after I went with a larger turbo. A true cold air intake is much better than a short ram, But a stock airbox setup is good for up until the 400+ whp range.

I replaced 5 wheel studs because a wheel stud snapped off and the other four lug nuts backed loose and were hanging on by a few threads. My wife told me the car was making noise a while ago. I couldn't hear anything. She told me it got a lot worse so I took it around the block. Sounded horrible, clunking like crazy. I brought it back home and I jacked the car up and noticed the driver's side wheel was about to fall off. I had the car aligned recently and a flat repair but the shop told me they didn't touch that wheel. So either I fucked up when I replaced the steering rack and didn't tighten the bolts or didn't seat the rim correctly, or the wheel stud snapped and allowed the other nuts to back off. I'm glad she wasn't hurt or had some severe car damage if the wheel would have come off, but mostly glad she wasn't hurt. The rim is shot. The holes are oval so there is no way I am putting that rim back on. I swapped on a winter setup in the meantime.

It looks like the EJ20G has the IACV in the same spot and the slanty tmic clears it.

Some people just bash the firewall with a hammer but I wasn't too crazy about doing that on my SS. So if the Forester tmic has the angled BPV it might fit. You probably can't use the Forester BPV though. For my setup (which I have yet to install) I bought a BPV adapter plate like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stock-BOV-Adapter-for-FMIC-2002-Subaru-WRX-STI-FXT-BPV-blow-off-valve/162543888630?hash=item25d85ee8f6:g:fZYAAOSwx2dYE7Pe&vxp=mtr It was a bit extra to have the custom nipple made. I could have made my own but I didn't feel like it. I had to ask them to custom make one that had a 3/4" nipple since the stock SS BPV has a 3/4" inlet and outlet. I would think that the adapter plate like I got would allow clearance pf the IACV. I lifted this pic from bbslegacycentral from this thread: https://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=38598&sid=801a7681f81ac91bbb335f6de6ebad5d

Hmm, didn't realize that part about the IACV position of the 20K.

It's just witchhunter.com: http://www.witchhunter.com/

If you cracked the plastic pintle cap on the bottom those can be replaced. If you send them to Witchhunter Performance that is part of their service which includes flow testing and replacement of all the o rings for $22/injector. I just got a set of gray 440cc side feeds and two of the pintle caps were cracked. The EJ20K injector flow rate is about 480cc iirc. So it really depends on what how much boost you are wanting to run and what size turbo. With 480cc you could probably run a 16g size turbo at 16 psi or so before you maxed them out. You could also swap in the grey 440ccs and still run up to 16 psi on a 16g. If they flow test all right then you might as well use them unless you want more power. If you wanted to run the 550cc yellow 04-06 STi injectors (they are actually about 525cc but everyone calls them 550s) you would need different fuel rails or an adapter kit which Rob sells. They are super cheap too. You can get a refurbished set on ebay for under $100. You could run a TD05 16g size turbo at 18 psi with those. Probably even an 18g at lower boost. The nice thing is you will have a standalone so you can run whatever size you want and set the injector size in the tune.

God, I wish this JDM Version 3 STI TMIC would fit on my setup: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2855231 Joe, maybe you could get this to work. It's so cool, I wanted it to work so badly. I'm sure I could figure out some way to stuff it in but I already have everything I need for my XT setup.

^A slanty JDM 20g, or an 06 WRX/FXT with the angled BPV will be a direct fit. An 02/03 WRX tmic will fit if you bash the firewall and shave the throttle body. 06/XT tmics are a dime a dozen out here.

Either way is good. Since you are for sure going with the MS might as well make it easy to plugging it in with pigtails. You gonna get those injectors cleaned and flow tested? I debated for a while whether to go standalone, RobTune, or do a WRX harness merge. The WRX harness merge would have been nice because then I could use a Tactrix and Romraider like I am used to. But the RobTune is a lot cheaper and less work than the merge, and will give a satisfactory power level for a simple fun DD.

Damn dude, that sucks. I feel ya. I had a shop destroy an $1800 set of heads. They lied about it for months and I tried to be the nice guy and give them the benefit of the doubt. Only thing that worked was threatening legal action. I had a case against them and was about to serve them papers. And then the shop that machined my shortblock did it wrong and I had to fix it. Good help is hard to find. I'm mocking up my td04 and XT tmic install for the SS. Once I get that installed and working correctly I'll install the RobTune ecu and get even more hp.

Ah, cool. I thought about doing that, but the RobTune is so easy lol. I look forward to see how you do it!

Man, this thread has sure died, lol. I've done a bunch of shit to my SS recently: New steering rack New tie rod ends Alignment New OEM power steering lines Mechanical Boost gauge (stupid electronic gauge busted) Head unit Component door speakers with amp Driver's side door handle Replaced duty c solenoid Replaced TCU twice Replaced oil pan Replaced power steering pump Replaced 4EAT clutch drum assembly Three or four drain and fills. Grimmspeed exhaust gaskets. Got almost everything ready for my turbo swap: Mint td04 w/3k 06 XT tmic MBC 440cc injectors and rails Robtune ECU 4to2 ignition conversion EDM glass headlights with leveling switch on the way. Two front fenders to go on. Keyless entry to install.