amm203

I bought the following kit: Gates 348532 That kit covers 95% of the seals. It did not contain a snap-ring for the bearing but I just reused the old one since it wasn't deformed during removal. I bought the following as well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XR6DHYS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XR9D14F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 These are the final two seals needed. One is 17mm OD x 13MM ID x 2mm width & the other is 16mm OD x 12mm ID x 2mm width. One is for the pressure sensor O-ring and the other is an O-ring for that outer bolt with the spring. (I forget which one goes where but it's fairly obvious to match up the old ones with the new ones)

To clarify - they did ask for a couple photos but that's it. Here's how my original set looked after a couple years circa 2018. No bueno - PA potholes don't f&&k around

I'm almost certain the bearings in those WL top-hats pop while turning after they get worn. I had that exact issue with my original set of WL top-hats. I also had the rubber fail/crack after a couple years on that first set. Whiteline's CS was top-notch and sent out replacements with no questions asked. After replacement, the popping sound went away. Also worth noting - I believe the top-hat should only be fully tightened to the strut while the wheels are resting on the ground. Maybe some binding/faster wear occurs if tightened while the wheels are in the air?

I just recently installed a new rack with P/N 34110VA121 and it went in perfectly. Used the thinner jam nuts and didn't have to trim any threads (using the WL bump-steer tie-rod ends). Alignment on my setup was no issue for the alignment shop (-1.2° camber). Only thing I can guess/hope is they revised it to fix the known issue of these leaking relatively quickly near the input shaft

Still 12.0 - you can look here to see latest versions: https://store.kenwoodusa.com/catalog.php?cat_id=S19/

Main bearing seal is my thinking as well. I actually reused that infamous orange o-ring on the OEM pump since I replaced it only 5k miles ago (I was also thinking that’s why the OEM one was having its new-at-the-time minor leak). Resealed OEM pump has 100 miles on it so far - smoke free and no fluid loss at all. We’ll see how well the Gates seals hold up!

If you can stomach it, I'd rebuild your OEM one. My remanufactured pump started leaking within 1,000 miles & new OEM ones are stupid expensive (at least to me). I purchased Gates Kit #348532. This kit is missing a couple O-rings so I also purchased the following: 17mm OD x 13MM ID x 2mm width & 16mm OD x 12mm ID x 2mm width (these can be found for cheap on Amazon.) FWIW I got a box of 50EA of these damn O-rings so I could ship you a couple of each in an envelope for $free.99. One is for the pressure sensor O-ring and the other is an O-ring for that outer bolt with the spring. I then followed a mix of a great YouTube video and a forum post over with the Outbacks: https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/power-steering-pump-rebuild-gen-3-2005-2009.516272/ (I did not remove the hex bolt as shown on this guide - didn't seem necessary)

Resealed OEM pump is in - 45 minute job start to finish. Sounds much quieter and happier than the remanufactured one. Steering feel is also much more consistent lock-to-lock. It looks like the reman one failed at the main bearing shaft seal. Grease from the bearing was oozing out at the race seams. Only thing I can guess is the failed bearing shaft seal was allowing AT fluid to push the grease out of the bearing but not entirely sure since the pump was covered in fluid as well. ~15 mile test drive showed no loss of fluid on the resealed OEM pump

Saw this pop up this morning - likely won't last long at that price https://jalopnik.com/at-cad-7-500-is-this-2007-subaru-legacy-gt-spec-b-less-1847838097

Looks as though both the OEM and "new" one are leaking from the front main seal. The rebuilt one especially already has a ton of gunk around the shaft bearing area. Most of my fluid is running down the front of the timing belt cover and onto the headers. I'm guessing the rebuilt reman ones are haphazardly resealed. You have to be pretty careful punching out the front seal so you don't gouge the outer sealing surface. Only other way I saw these leak is the main body seal but it's tough to tell if that was the culprit since the entire OEM pump was covered in fluid when I pulled it. The purchased rebuilt one got to the point where I needed to refill the reservoir every 3rd or 4th drive before I finally garaged it. I will start it up and let it idle to see if I can spot any drips and confirm their source

Very much so! It sucks, too because I was having a blast driving it with the 2015 STI rack. Been sitting in the garage for over a week now. It wasn't as bad as expected - just tedious. Knew I needed to do something when I stopped at a gas station after being on the highway. Guy pulled up next to me at the pump saying "uh, your car is smoking". Sure enough, smoke was bellowing out of the hood scoop. I simply said "ya, power steering pump is leaking". He just looked bewildered haha

Rebuilt the old, leaky OEM power steering pump with new seals because *surprise* the rebuilt aftermarket pump I installed a few months back is already leaking

Good luck finding one new. I went for the Invidia auto DP from Auto City Imports at first. Purchased it in March and was told it would be delivered by July. That came and went and then they said hopefully by December. At that point, I just asked them to switch me to the auto DP from Cobb since it's higher quality and has the GESi cat. I already paid for the Invidia so the bump up in price at that point wasn't awful. Still being told that December is the anticipated delivery date for the Cobb - we will see. These COVID shortages/delays blow

I went down the path of looking at a Koyorad back when my engine was being rebuilt and it, too is manual only. They say to use an external cooler with their radiator if you buy it for an AT car. I have the Derale thermostat (13011) and Hayden external cooler (676). This setup is running through the original OEM radiator and has performed great. Could not tell you if it would be sufficient without the OEM built-in AT cooler but judging by Koyorad's suggestion, it is possible (maybe just size up the cooler to biggest one that'll fit)

Replaced both inner CV boots on the front axles. This was a surprisingly easy install and took just a couple hours over the course of 2 days. It was a mess with tons of rags and brake cleaner involved but the new boots and grease are in. Short test drive confirmed no new sounds or issues

STI rack is in and alignment is scheduled. Discovered both of the front inner CV boots are starting to split. I'll be replacing both using the method of keeping the axle attached and sliding the rollers out of the inner cup - should be a fun, messy job

https://www.bamwholesaleparts.com/oem-parts/subaru-gear-assembly-34110va121 $651 delivered to my front door. Arrived in 2 days with no damage at all. Local Subaru dealer wanted over $800 for me to pick one up - wtf Edit: I originally found one from a Subaru dealer down in Florida for close to $635 delivered but they cancelled my order due to worrying about it getting damaged during shipping. Seems this requires a mix of searching for local and cheaper dealers to order from to get the best deal

Well shoot - guess it's destined for the scrap bin. Oh well

Funny, I had this exact same experience when I took mine in to get the rear aligned last year. I have that offset bolt as well from Whiteline and the tech was having a hell of a time dialing in the rear with it. He, too suggested just getting the KTA124 kit and doing it proper. He got me close but not exactly where I wanted on the rear-end alignment. I'm holding off on the KTA124 kit for now and seeing how tire wear goes

Found a great deal on a new 2015-2017 STI rack from a nearby Subaru dealership in Ohio - cheapest I've seen online. Should get here in a couple days and I'll install it this weekend. The rebuild route was considered but the quick ratio was too good to pass up. I'll have a used rack for rebuild if anyone wants it - she leaks. Likely just have to pay shipping. Thank you again to Underdog for the detailed thread!

Glad everything went well! Thank you for updating us on the results/method! I may have to tackle this soon myself

If I'm seeing the photo correctly, I believe that is your oil return hose and not related to the coolant. Coolant hose is that "U"-shaped hose near the top-left of your parts diagram. It's usually covered in a foil-like material. Link for replacement oil return hose and spring clamps: https://www.fastwrx.com/products/turbo-oil-return-line-hose-to-head

Been filling up the power steering fluid reservoir more and more often lately - rack has had a small leak at one of the bellows for a few years now. 2015 STI rack in my near future. I think the new pump exacerbated the issue once it was installed and returned the system to full pressure

I've had good experiences with the Pioneer CarPlay/Android Auto systems. Super good responsiveness and quality. I've had the AVH-3500NEX (single DIN) in my truck for a while now and love it.

Eagle One Etching Mag Wheel Cleaner and some nylon scrub brushes worked wonders for me - completely refreshed my arms to look like new. It is acid-based so definitely wear gloves and be careful where the water runoff goes to after you hose them down. It'll also cause the mirrored machined surfaces of the aluminum to get hazy. Didn't affect the bearing mounting at all, though. Here's a post showing before and after with the cleaner: https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5895944&postcount=3745