amm203

Searching for a front-end rattle helped me solve 2 problems. The bolt securing one of the Koni Yellow inserts at the base of the strut housing was not fully tightened. I know I torqued it properly back when I got it. All I can guess is 50k+ miles of driving/crappy western PA roads allowed it to come loose over time. No more rattles over bumps. Also found a loose heat-shield on the OEM up-pipe. Solved that by stuffing the space between with some DEI exhaust wrap (just a temporary fix until the Killer B setup goes on). Speaking of - something gorgeous arrived today:

They had my car 2 days for the airbag recall. Had to wait a week as well. They also informed me the dash did not need to come off so the driver-side temp actuator replacement will have to wait until I'm feeling ambitious enough to remove the dash myself. On another note - bought a Killer B Holy Header with the EWG up-pipe setup. First big step towards power gains (FP Blue, EWG & new DP to follow later). Now my dilemma is whether I try to send this setup through the stock 5EAT and see what happens or install the IPT built trans before taking the plunge

Had the airbag recall done as well as a 5EAT BG transmission fluid flush/replacement. Fluid was 25k miles old. Noticeably smoother shifting

I had good luck with SIL-Glyde brake lube. Safe for the rubber components and held up well

If you're using this for your 2011 Legacy, keep in mind there are different versions of the software between the 2006-2009s and the 2010-2012s. This thread and files are mainly dedicated to the 2006-2009 models. See here: https://store.kenwoodusa.com/catalog.php?cat_id=S19/

Do you know if they had to remove your dash for the second recall? I have driver temp actuator in-hand and would like them to put it in.

Might not hurt to replace those hub bolts if they're original. Attempted my front driver hub replacement and ended up rounding off one of the hub bolts (original 12 year old bolt). Granted it was mostly my mistake rushing to replace it on my lunch break but now I need to take it to my local mechanic so they can either use a "trick" or simply cut it off (I definitely hicksta'd it). Picked up four new bolts so it won't be an issue for the inevitable bearing replacement down the road. (Part #: 901000285 for reference).

Running something similar to quick4dr. Hayden 676 with a Derale. Transmission is running great after almost 25k miles on a built motor at 19PSI (~130K total miles on the 5EAT).

Started getting a random front-end grinding noise. Sounds like it's the driver-side Timken bearing (passenger Timken went out a while back). I'm most surprised how suddenly the sound came on. Drove it in some rainy weather Saturday, parked it and drove it again Sunday without hearing a thing. Left for work Monday and could hear it right away above 5-10MPH. Gonna confirm it's the bearing and swap it out with a legit OEM I have laying around. These have gotten down to a 20 minute job for me at this point.

Is that iWire kit considered necessary if you're running an AEM 320lph w/ID1050xs or only when you start getting into E85/really pushing the pump?

Removed the front seats to vacuum up 2 years of Golden Retriever hair/coins/rogue fries. Good to know that is a very easy process for our cars

I've read of people still getting it fixed after the TSB period ended while others were told to go pound sand. YMMV but it wouldn't hurt to bring it to your favorite Subaru dealer and see if they'll do it. If you haven't had the final airbag recall done maybe try to see if they'll throw it in with that.

Changed the oil then gave it a wash, clay-bar and wax treatment. Finished with wheel shine. Avatar photo homage

I could be convinced - never hurts to know how to do it for future reference.

In a perfect world I'd like to swap the motor out of my 5EAT and into your Spec B - gains alone on that would be nice. Also guessing it'd be cheaper than doing a full 6MT swap into my 5EAT. Still can't believe the stock auto trans is holding the power of this built motor @ 122k miles.

Installed Whiteline steering rack bushings (KSR207). Install wasn’t bad just tedious. Ended up using the 48mm passenger bushing but it looked like either would have fit fine. Minor improvement in steering tightness but mostly happy to get the 120k mile rubber bushings replaced. Great Whiteline quality as usual. Noticed a torn inner tie-rod boot that seems to be slowly seeping fluid. New/remanufactured rack may be next

+1 for what Gear says. That quarter looks amazing. It would be the answer to my constant battle against the rusting rear quarter on the sedan. Guessing those are an entirely different beast, though.

A loose throttle body coupler on these cars can create random sounds like that. There is a rubber collar on the throttle body side of the coupler that can work itself loose or deteriorate over time. Most people either remove that little rubber collar or replace the entire coupler with a new OEM or aftermarket silicone one. Another spot may be your turbo to IC connection. Here's a great resource courtesy of cryo for chasing leaks: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/intake-vacuum-leaks-and-you-pics-inside-235626.html

Got the Fluidampr installed after work Friday. The Perrin pulley was off within 10 minutes using the bumpstart method. Took a little longer to do the rest but the custom tool worked perfectly. Rested it on the driver's frame rail and was able to torque it down properly. Smoothness across the rev range is a welcome addition as well as reduced random knock. Spent most of the day Saturday swapping the blacked out headlights for clear & chrome ones. Results were great and I'll eventually do a proper headlight restoration and apply the clear lamin-x.

We have to use an access hole on the tranny bellmouth and use a crow bar on the flywheel. With my Grimmspeed TMIC in the way I was just going to go the lazy route with the homemade tool. Working in an office connected to a steel shop allows me to make this for very little $. This would basically be a cheap Company 23 tool for Fluidamprs.

Absolutely - should have the pulley in my hands Friday so I can finalize dimensions and PM it to you then. I plan to oversize the holes 1/16" for a little play. Not sure the exact bolt size and thread on the pulley but it looks to be 3/8"-24 (can confirm this, too on Friday). DWG file okay?

Working up a quick Fluidampr install tool. I'm going to confirm dimensions once I have the real thing here. Figure I'll burn it out of 3/8" thick 304 stainless on our plasma machine.

Bought a Fluidampr to swap in for the Perrin LWCP. Any tips on grinding down the timing belt lip are appreciated - was thinking Dremel in place with rag stuffed into the gap to avoid shavings getting inside the cover. Unless the center timing cover is easy to take off? I plan to do the serpentine belt method for removing the pulley bolt (have two new ones to go on while I'm in there).

Some arts and crafts courtesy of Klearz and donor headlight assemblies. Decided to go chromed & cleared headlights and my OCD didn't want to leave the turn-signal lens out.

If you're feeling up to spending the $$, these are a great upgrade for our 08-09 fogs: https://www.theretrofitsource.com/subaru-gr-wrx-morimoto-xb-led-LF-STI?quantity=1 Took about 15 minutes to swap out with the incandescent fogs. They have great light output even with the yellow lamin-x I added on. I think the yellow works fine but looks even better with an HID retrofit (more stark contrast in color temp). That's an entirely different rabbit hole for you to go down, though.