amm203

Can confirm - same exact spot as Enlight and Max. Passenger side where the quarter-panel meets the body above the wheel I have some small paint bubbling. Nothing on the driver/gas door side, though. This was repaired last spring and even with no winter driving last year it's starting to bubble again. Frustrating. The guy who looked at my car last year to fix the rust instantly commented on the rubber trim piece in the wheel well and how it notoriously traps dirt and water on Subarus, causing rust issues.

Swapped front calipers with Raybestos remans. OEMs at 116k miles had seen better days. No more dragging brakes. Seem to be well-built

http://www.cars101.com/outback.html Scroll down to look at the 2006 Outback overview. Any non-turbo/non 3.0L Legacy/Outback from these years can only be optioned with a 4EAT. Only way to get 5 speeds on a 2.5 non-turbo in these years is with a manual transmission.

Picked up a couple maintenance tools for the Soob Soob BrushHero - not usually one for infomercial style products but this thing is legit. Crazy amount of torque from just using water pressure. Makes cleaning custom wheels a breeze - worth every penny IMO. Depstech Wifi Endoscope (WF050) - 5MP camera that streams video to your phone and allows you to get a camera into extremely tight spaces. Should work great for looking in and around the engine bay without tearing stuff out.

Replaced the SI-knob assembly - relatively painless endeavor. Also got a new AP cable in the mail. Kudos to Cobb for fully covering a 4 year old product with a known defect.

SI-drive knob snapped off over the weekend. New replacement on the way

Always thought that'd be a good business plan. Multiple garage bays with lifts and air tools for DIYers. Simple hourly rental fee and option to bring your own tools or rent ones in-house. Insurance/litigation costs would likely be astronomical but it could work. Don't know if they exist, though Edit: Appears Garagetime does this in a sort of AirBNB fashion with limited locations

Verbatim DVD+R DL works for me

Installed the Samco BPV hose - went a lot smoother than I expected. Followed instructions here for mating up to the BPV on a Grimmspeed TMIC. Decided that I didn't like using the 1" long aluminum tube from Grimmspeed as a joiner (not its intended use anyways). Ended up finding this. The OCD in me wishes Grimmspeed created a special BPV hose adapter for Samco hoses but I understand it's a small group of people. Either way the purchased joiner works perfectly and gives both clamps the full area to seal.

Will you be swapping it yourself or using a shop?

Ordered the Samco BPV hose from Roger Clark Motorsports yesterday. Less than 20 hours later it will be at my front door. I've read about their customer service/shipping but holy hell that is impressive. Now I can swap it in this weekend.

I could believe those numbers depending on the dyno. My mod list is very similar to yours except VF48 from a 2018 STI. I got 260/300 on a Mustang with a somewhat conservative tune to keep the tranny safe. Bought a spare IPT 5EAT for something like what you're going through. Once I swap I'll have an extra VB but not sure when that will be.

What kind of power you putting through it?

I can tell you my front right wheel bearing went bad and had horrible grinding noises felt through the pedals and steering wheel. It was a Timken with less than 5k miles and had an alarming amount of play. While replacing it with an OEM NTN bearing I noticed my speed sensor was starting to have one of the sides scuffed like yours but not nearly as bad. It's strange you're not hearing any noises on your bearings but at 250k miles it makes sense they could be the culprit. Hope it works out for you.

Good point. I tested every ground I could with a multimeter and came up with voltage differences well below bad grounding thresholds. The only other thing is that blue/black wire for the DRL mod wasn't taped over (dumb oversight on my part). Maybe that was making metal contact randomly under the dash? Regardless I'm going to live with the regular LED relay and hope the codes are phantom moving forward. DD makes great products so it very well could have been something else. Just happy to not be in limp-mode anymore

Solved an issue and discovered something odd. Purchased and installed the Diode Dynamics SmartTap a couple months ago. Worked great - the only issue was it randomly caused my ecu to reset at one point (radio stations reset and car had to relearn). I never disconnected the battery during install and chalked it up to a random electrical gremlin. Fast forward a month or so and I get P0700/P1718/C0045 (all related to ABS/VDC). This was random and the car didn't display any transmission/drive-ability issues before or after the codes appeared. A test confirmed I had a dying alternator. Before replacing with the reman alternator the codes all cleared themselves. However, after installing the new alternator and starting the car, all three codes came back. I figured they'd clear themselves after a few driving cycles. After 2 days and 5-8 driving cycles the codes were still present. I knew I fixed the alternator issue - voltages are much more stable and windows don't chug anymore if I'm rolling up 2 at a time. On a whim I recalled the random ecu reset after installing the SmartTap. So I swap in the standard Diode Dynamics LED flasher and start up the car and all codes were cleared on their own - no ecu reset required. TLDR: I think the SmartTap caused some electrical issues in the CAN BUS system. I don't know if this was made worse by the DRL disable mod I did a few years back but it appears the SmartTap was the culprit all along. I think the dying alternator was just a coincidental issue. Not sure if my SmartTap is faulty but I don't care to find out - going to return it. Curious if anyone else with the SmartTap had electrical issues after install. A Google search came up dry.

Swapped in a remanufactured Denso alternator. No more voltage drops to 12.0v or battery & parking brake lights at startup. Solid 14-14.4v while driving around now.

To be honest, I'd be more concerned with "bargain price" and "shagged turbo". Seems like the early makings of YNANSB. Good luck OP and please report back on your findings/solution to help people who run across this issue in the future

If you haven't already, take it to Advanced Auto or Autozone and have them run a test on your alternator (it's free). I'm currently driving with P0700, P1718 and C0045 accompanied by random battery & parking brake lights on my dash at startup. I'm getting random voltage dips near 12.0 volts when coming to a stop/idling at red lights and experiencing generally low voltage overall. A test at Advanced Auto confirmed I have a perfectly healthy battery but a dying/faulty alternator. I have a Denso reman alternator coming in the mail and will update the results.

Thanks for this. Currently getting intermittent E-Brake/Battery lights at start up that go away within driving about 50 feet. Just today I start my car and get P0700 & P1718 and notice battery voltage is around 13.4 volts while running (via AP) - guessing this is the issue. Edit: Confirmed with Advanced Auto test that I have a bad alternator.

This is very true. After replacing the mode and passenger actuator, I had my dash replaced under warranty. I'm kicking myself for not telling them to replace the driver actuator. It's now randomly clicking at 65° and only stops when I crank it up to 85° and back down again. Even then it's not guaranteed to stop the clicking. Oh well

Rallitek soft insert and rear diff inserts from Whiteline helped get rid of a good bit of slop and gave firmer shifts for my 5EAT. However, you'll likely need to do what DaveWaters is suggesting to clean up hard shifts. Subaru released a service bulletin for this. I think they charged me about $35 to do the relearn. See here: https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3897657&postcount=3

https://subimods.com/hr-sport-springs-2005-2009-lgt-54425.html Running these with Koni yellow sport adjustable dampers. Great combo. Lowered about 1". Running them with 8"/225mm wheel/tire combo - no pulling of fenders required. They also fit fine with 8.5"/235mm combo and no pulling required on the fenders.

Thought I had a small exhaust leak. Tried tightening the bung on the CNT DP near the turbo and was able to tighten it a good 3 turns. Now I'm hearing a clicking noise. Had a co-worker who's very good with cars confirm it's an exhaust leak this morning. Only thing I can guess is sealing off the bung increased pressure enough to cause another leak to become more apparent. Taking it to an exhaust shop tomorrow to get fixed. Never ends

New FPR seemed to stabilize fueling somewhat. I'm getting about -0.78% to +5.85% A/F Learning which seems like a nice tight gap for long term trims. Still odd I'm getting a fair amount of positive A/F Correction right before getting into boost regardless of gear. Curious if this is just JR adding extra fuel before getting into boost to avoid knock - I recall reading this is common practice for tuners (feel free to correct me if I'm wrong)