amm203

I don't have a lot of experience with air impacts. I was going to buy air but by the time I priced up a comparable air wrench (torque-wise) with a tank and hose, an electric IR was a no-brainer. It is a bulky gun and can get awkward to use sometimes but extensions and universal joints make it work in small spaces just fine. The Milwaukee may be even nicer from what I've heard. Once I own a house with a garage I may upgrade to air but the IR is holding it's own just fine. There has only been 1 time it couldn't get the job done; rear lateral arm cam bolts. Those things can burn in hell.

Not so much what I did but another LGT pulled up behind me early this morning in Wexford and revved it in neutral - sounded pretty good. I wanted to reciprocate but being in a 5EAT makes that a little tough. Rare to see these cars around - wonder if it was a fellow LGT forum member.

Ingersoll Rand W7150 (or any quality electric impact). Worth every penny and has made wheel bearing changes a routine 30 minute job. I've changed 6 between my dad's car and mine. This thing has paid for itself multiple times now. I use it with Tekton impact sockets and an impact universal joint - have no interference issues with all 4 corners.

Cleaned the MAF and replaced the K&N panel filter with an AEM DryFlow one over the weekend. While tightening connection of the afta-maf elbow to Perrin inlet I ended up snapping the nylon coupler. Replacing it with a machined aluminum one designed for joining silicone intake piping.

Am I seeing stock LGT brakes on a 490WHP car? How do those hold up with spirited driving?

Got it out of the garage this weekend to stretch its legs during this unusually warm spell we're having. Also swapped out the Forge BPV for a Turbosmart Kompact. Strange thing I noticed; was getting around -10.4-10.6 vacuum after throttle lift-off and coasting on the Forge. After the TS Kompact install I'm getting upwards of -11.2-11.4 vacuum now during the same lift-off. Don't know what this means so anyone who does feel free to chime in. Something tells me this might mean my Forge was leaky.

Nice! Curious how well an aftermarket DS will work for you. This sounds like it may be a necessary replacement for most of us at some point.

Well that sucks. At this point I would just take it to a reputable Subie shop to pinpoint the problem if you want to stop throwing money at it.

I remember being mortified my transmission/center diff was going as well while hearing that grinding noise. The sound appeared to be coming from under the center console. Turned out to be the right front bearing. Very hard to isolate where a sound is coming from within the cabin. Pleides suggestion is exactly how I figured out which bearing was bad. Mine also had a little bit of play but I think that is rare with our hub+bearing assemblies. Hopefully that solves it! Keep us updated

My vote is on a bad wheel bearing - mine made similar sounds when they were going. Does the sound change at all going around turns?

Code what kind of drop do the T1s have? I believe my 8.5" Raijins had 235/40s and no rubbing whatsoever on Koni/H&R. That suspension has a mild drop, though.

Thanks Kaos! I ran two different sets of Raijins - 18x8.5 and 18x8 (currently on the car). Both wheels had no rubbing issues whatsoever on the Koni/H&R setup. No fender rolling was required. With 225/40R-18s on the 8" wide wheels, there's about a 1-1.5 finger gap between the tires and the fender. The 8.5s were a tiny bit closer given the slightly larger diameter tire that was on them. I prefer the 8s over the 8.5s mostly due to the fact that the 8s sit perfectly flush with the fender if you look at the car down the side. 8.5s just barely poked out but it wasn't bad.

Planning to get an IPT 5EAT with custom TC installed in the next couple months. After that (and coupled with the Stage 1+ IAG built block), I should be able to handle more power. I was thinking of adding the following with the IPT trans: Killer B Holy Header, Grimmspeed up pipe and Invidia DP (to replace an old CNT DP) then dyno tune. Headers and up pipe are really the only stock items left in the exhaust system. Only other stock thing would be the intake but from what I read it wouldn't really be necessary given my power goals (~350 WHP/WTQ). I'm guessing the limiting factor in this build is the VF48. Turbo will be the next upgrade but that's not for a couple years. I think it wouldn't hurt to get the header and up on for a smoother running engine now, though. Guess my main questions are if the header and up is overkill given my power goals and if there are any other upgrades I should consider throwing in the mix? Other question was if I go with the header and up - would you guys suggest the ceramic coated versions?

Thanks! Should have some exciting updates coming in the next few months - an IPT 5EAT w/custom TC (currently wrapped up on a pallet) goes in this spring. Depending on how that goes, a larger turbo may be in the cards for 2021. I'm hoping to get it closer to 350-400WHP once all is said and done.

I hope I'm wrong but I recall reading the driver temp control is impossible to access/replace without dash removal. If you end up proving that wrong I'll be ecstatic because my driver temp servo is starting to click at certain temps now. Doing the mode servo was PITA enough. Edit: ScottFW documented driver-side replacement and someone chimed in they were able to do it without dash removal. Curious how it goes for you. Info can be found HERE

From a post by csaari in a vent-specific thread. Almost all can be bought on eBay or really anywhere.

Nice Taco! Those, old school (and new) 4-Runners and old Pathfinders are my favorite trucks

Just got out and drove it for fun Saturday - perfect turbo weather. Dash beeped letting me know I was driving for 2 hours right when I got home. Those 2 hours alone remind me why I put so much time, effort and money into this awesome machine

Wow. That looks infinitely better than the straight-cut tips. May have to cut back the tips on my sedan and use these! Thank you

From limited research on other Subaru forums it looks like some combination of those chassis codes can pop up if water gets into the VDC wire loom in the engine bay. If it happens again while dry then I'll really start to worry. The only other thing I could imagine it being is having LEDs for every exterior light except the low beam. Wonder if they could be messing with the CANBUS system. They are DiodeDynamics and CANBUS compatible, though.

Scary moment coming home from work last Thursday after a crazy amount of rain. Turned onto a busy 4-lane road and once I got up to about 50mph I feel a pop and the car bucks. Every single warning light is on the dash and my temp gauge is pegged hot with the blue cold light on. Luckily the AP was plugged in and still showed 180* coolant temp. The 5EAT was acting weird as hell and my brakes were randomly pulsing while slowing down. Turned the car off and restarted and it ran fine but showed C0045, C0047 and C0072 - so basically all VDC related stuff. The car drove normally after restarting albeit in limp mode. Just this morning all codes cleared themselves after 5 or so driving cycles. Only thing I can guess is during the storm we had some flooding at our steel shop. I had to move my car through about 6-8 inches of water. Something must have gotten wet that shouldn't have. Hopefully it doesn't happen again - not a good feeling at 50mph.

Replaced both purge solenoid valves and the 4 vacuum hoses coming off them. The old hoses were disintegrating during removal and essentially toast.

I just replaced my aging recirc tube with this one: https://rogerclarkmotorsport.co.uk/store/product/145-rcm-samco-bpv-hose-wrx-legacy-gt-05-14 Yes it can be a little pricey coming from the UK. However, it is a quality piece and ships very quickly. As for installation, removing the intercooler helps a good bit. You basically have to finangle/twist it under the IM until it slips onto the metal nipple of the Perrin inlet. It took a bit of trial and error but did mate up to it pretty quickly. The stiffness of the silicone piece made it pretty easy to slip on to the nipple once I got it lined up. After that it's just trying to get the worm clamp to stay put while you tighten it. It's doable but just takes a little patience.

-_-

I was mistaken - it is the gas door side with bubbling. Opposite side is clean