amm203

Found a cheap, used, low-mile caliper to get me through the summer. Nice to see the newer WRXs still using the exact same front caliper as our GTs. Going to swap in all the stainless lines I've had brand new in the bag for years now. Any specific order I should follow? Closest corner to the reservoir first working my way out until I'm furthest away for the last corner?

Drove it on Saturday - great day to be out. Started to notice that at random times the steering wheel would be shaking at low, mid and higher speeds. Randomly the shake would go away and everything would be normal. I could also hear a humming noise accompanying the shaking - this also went away when the shaking went away. Mind was racing as to what the culprit was. Brakes, axle, wheel bearing, center diff (oh no)? To be safe, I limped it home a few miles barely touching the brakes. Get home and check each rotor. Front driver rotor was luke-warm. Both rears, luke warm. Front passenger cooked my finger after a 1/2 second touch. Holy hell was it hot. Looking like a seized caliper that would sometimes unseize and sometimes stay stuck. Gonna tear into it this weekend. Should really just get the Brembos and be done with these reman crap calipers

Agreed. They went from actual car-enthusiasts writing articles to basically activists writing articles. Sad decline

and was just featured on Jalopnik's "biggest suckers on BAT" (I disagree with this sentiment, though) https://jalopnik.com/subaru-legacy-gt-dodge-charger-ferrari-f430-the-bigg-1848703025/slides/2

Happy to help. In retrospect I believe I trimmed the inlet side a little as well. Either way it got rid of the severe kink nicely

https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/per1-psp-int-355bk-perrin-afta-maf-hose-black They can be found a little cheaper (closer to $90) on eBay

I had the same issue with the Perrin inlet. Got rid of the accordion MAF tube and went with the Perrin "Afta-MAF" intake tube. Had to trim off some of the collar of the tube at the airbox side to get the kink a little less severe. Maybe getting the Afta-MAF tube and trimming is an option (albeit a ~$100 option). There is also a seller on eBay that sells an unbranded MAF tube for cheaper but fitment wasn't that great and I ended up opting for the Perrin. Much better fitment and not a lot of cutting required Edit: Photo added for reference

From the first post of this thread courtesy of Underdog: https://www.mcmaster.com/91938A130/

This sounds awfully similar to what I smelled for about a year. Couldn't figure it out. Fixing my PS pump made the weird smell go away but it did take a couple weeks for the smell to fully dissipate after properly resealing the pump. The top of the block has a lot of little square areas where liquids can pool and sit. Assuming it takes a while for those to cook off. Hopefully that's your issue

If you want/need to swap the shaft bearing let me know. I bought an NTN bearing but didn't need to use it since my original one was fine. I can send it for just shipping cost since I have no need for it. Otherwise, you wanna grab Honda part #: 91048-P2A-003

It's just those random runoff/puddle areas of pure saltwater that make me cringe. Tough to pass up 40°+ in Feb, though. It's always a hoot going from a 5,000# boat to a 3,500# car with more power

I did not need to remove my bumper when I changed mine out. I believe you have access to the two bolts either through the opening of the fogs or directly underneath (might have to remove engine skid plate or those little side splash plates)

If my build doesn't pan out I will definitely part with it. My biggest worry is by the time I get around to getting it installed and tuned, a shop will be too scared to tune an EWG setup due to fines (hope I'm wrong)

I got lucky and snagged a holy header/EWG v-band uppipe from someone selling new "open box" last year. I believe due to EPA crap they stopped selling the v-band EWG up altogether. Haven't checked their website to see if they're selling a 2-bolt non-EWG version by itself but I guess not, unfortunately. Curious why they wouldn't offer a 2-bolt up in today's market but maybe they're just focusing on header combos only Edit: Judging by their "Tial MV-S Dump Tube" price ($160!?), their Up might be in the neighborhood of $500-600 by itself. Probably not a profitable piece.

Then the KB uppipe I'm waiting to put in has no flex joint and from what I can tell, not very many instances of cracking. Might have something to do with 321 vs 304/316 SS, though (and that KB fab quality of course)

Currently running 225/40/18s and think my next set will be 235s. That extra 4mm of sidewall has got to help with the ride quality at least a little bit. Should also fill out the wheel well a little better

Hoping for this big snow storm to happen. Been parked since xmas - should probably put the battery tender on it. Excited to take the Sequoia out for a Monday morning snow adventure

Yikes - ya that doesn't look proper. Agree with Infosecdad. Luckily that dent appears to be over the filter area so your solenoids avoided damage

This might help Edit: Even his looks a little dinged up

Like the fluid pan on the transmission? I should be able to get a picture later this week/weekend

See here: https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/power-steering-pump-rebuild-gen-3-2005-2009.516272/ This guy touches on that hex key bolt - it is a 10mm hex and houses the control relief valve. There is an o-ring there but I did not swap it. MrSubaru ignored it so I did the same haha This forum guide also seems to match your setup closer. His is on an 05/06 OB

Strange - mine had a spot for both of those rings. Didn't expect the difference to be that big between 05 & 08! Also, I can also mail you a few of those pressure sensor o-rings if you'd like. Just lemme know in PMs.

socal covered a lot of stuff to look out for. I also did full aluminum rear replacement last summer - replaced the brake dust shields/parking brake hardware as well while I was in there. If you can, get the OEM bushings pressed out and replace with Whiteline. Also be prepared to sawzall the OEM toe-adjustment bolts if they haven't been touched in a while. The whole process is a PITA and can get costly but the improvement in handling is well worth it IMO. The service manual's instructions actually aren't too bad to follow for the whole procedure. If money isn't a big deal, may as well get the KTA124 kit as well for full adjustment. That's next on my list to dial in rear alignment exactly where it needs to be. I can post part numbers for bolts/dust shields/WL bushings if you'd like

Oddly enough, he uses this kit: Gates 348827 (not to confuse you haha). Not sure exactly what the differences are but my kit worked just fine as well.

For some reason they do not. They do for other models - not sure why they skipped ours. This is what I followed: