B-BGTLimited

I'll be happy if it's just a supercharger whine sound... My previous attempt to use a clutch masters stage 1 organic on my 07 when I went Stg2 resulted in a rock crushing sound when in decel... This is why I swapped back to my factory Exedy clutch. Been running that clutch since probably 110k on the car, it's been at Stg2, 255whp/310tq from 170k to 260k and it's just starting to slip in 5th now. I'm hoping the Exedy that I have for the 06, which I "think" is the HD model wont sound like the clutch masters one, I know my wife's forester doesn't, so that's hopeful.

You have a reoccurring o2 heater code. The only thing people can suggest is to trace wiring for any damage and if nothing is found wrong there, replace the sensor since the internal heater may be shorted out. The o2 heating up quickly is vital to the engine running when cold. Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

The wife saw my plating station and had to clean me up and get me organized LMAO... New tongs, gloves, crock pot for degreaser. She got worried when I told her about my muriatic acid rinse bucket was taking the hair off my wrist from pulling parts out of it. I thought it was diluted enough [emoji23] She's a physics and physical science high school teacher... LOL Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

Dammit... That's another thing I still need to buy... LOL I'm getting a factory replacement shifter union tho, the shifter mount bushings themselves are already poly. Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

07 from the factory is a single mass flywheel. I believe I only have a Group-N trans mount.. Nothing more on that car. The 06 will be single mass flywheel with Exedy HD clutch, Group-N engine mounts, Group-N trans mount, energy suspension poly cross member bushings and Perrin Pitch stop. I expect that car to be a bit noisy... LOL Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

That decel noise was very apparent in my 07 when I was running the clutch master clutch. Once I switched back to the stock Exedy disc that noise went away. I attribute that to the stiffer hub springs. My 06 will have a WRX Exedy HD disc like my wife's Forester and that one is reasonably quiet. Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

Here is how you should be checking the harness for continuity. I de-pinned the connector to get better access to the wires. Traced them back to the bulkhead and then you put a probe at each end and ensure your OHM reading and continuity is consistent between the two wires.

As far as doing a wiring test you should determine what pin on the AVCS plug correlates to what pin on the engine harness bulkhead, you'd put the negative at one end and the positive lead at the other and it will tell you the continuity of the wire as a whole. You can also set the meter for ohms and see if it will give a reading. You may have to experiment with the ohm scale to get a good reading though. I'll take a run out to the garage in the morning and figure out what pins my AVCS plugs go to on the bulkhead and try to get you a photo of a bench test. I found AVCS cover seals on ebay from Russia.... Took a while to get them but they are very easy to tear down and clean. You just reuse all of the plastic seals and springs when reassembling... And obviously if one of those is bad you'd have to replace the whole thing at that point since I wasn't able to find those pieces. Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

Just put the heads on it yesterday... And plated all of the valve cover bolts so I can get those on. I want to spray the whole thing with clear coat since it's so clean! Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

At 215k I would hope the timing belt/pulleys have been replaced at least once in it's lifetime... Honestly I wouldn't expect an original timing component kit to last that long... mileage or years. Aisin kit's are apparently the go to now over the Gates stuff. I just bought mine (TKF004) for my 06 build from RockAuto for $266 after discount and tax/shipping. As far as the noise too, pull your alternator belt, and your AC belt and see if the noise is still there. That will help narrow it down some, since that could be PS pump whine. How did you check for continuity? I'd also be checking for Ohm's on the full wire length, or at least to the engine harness bulkhead under the hood.

These pulleys don't have any bearings on them, they are bolted directly to the cams which are supported by the cam carriers in the heads. The adjustable part only moves a little bit when it's being commanded. But if that's the case I feel like you would have more cam position codes vs an actuator circuit low code. That's why I feel like it could definitely be wiring from the AVCS solenoid to the ECU causing the issue, or the connectors are corroded causing poor connection.

AVCS pulleys can get nasty inside... granted this was from a motor that lost a rod and was run way too long that way. The AVCS portion is the center of the actual timing gear on the cam, so yes they are a pain in the ass to remove/service if needed.

Agreed!!!! this is where mine let go a couple months ago. Thankfully the 06 I have the lines look brand new in that area... trust me they are now dripping with Fluid Film... lol

In my opinion, coming from another car where rust is very bad when you can see it... You really need to get under the car and see what the cradles look like and all of the exposed brake lines. On a Beretta when you are able to see rust on the body, forget about the underside, it's gone. I know these cars hold up much better but with my 07 having similar rust, wheel arch, trunk lid, door skin... The underside is also in very rough shape. It would suck to buy something like this, get it on a lift and find out some buddy squeaked it by inspection and the suspension is falling apart. I was able to pickup a 06 from NY that had absolutely no rust on it, granted the engine was blown... But I've been slowly putting it back together and coating every inch under it with fluid film. Trying to make this one last, although I did get 11 yrs and 160k out of my current one. Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

This is the world of everything disposable right? Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

Good to know about the Aisin timing belt suggestion now over the Gates kits. I went through a very similar process buying a car in 2018 that hadn't run since 2010. It had tires on it from 1998... I know that because it's the same tread pattern as in the magazine the car was in back in 1998 lol. I also sent out the fuel injectors for cleaning and had to replace some on that but it is originally an 88. Another coolant suggestion is Peak Global Lifetime. I've been using it in all of my cars and everytime I remove it it's so clean I'm able to reuse it. Been very happy with that coolant. Another CT member here as well but on the complete other side of the state diagonally... LOL Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

This page has a lot of good information about this code... It sounds like not only could it be a bad actuator but it could also be an issue with the wiring returning the signal to the ECU. https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.troublecodes.net/p2codes/p2088/%3famp Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

You have investigated the rotors as an issue right? I had continuous issues with calipers seizing and overheating/warping my front rotors. It would shake like a mofo when applying the brakes. Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

Tried out the Yellow Chromate dip that I got today... This was a 1 min soak after plating, and on the lesser concentration side when mixing it up with distilled water. This result makes me want to redo the map/ebcs bracket that's on the intake... LOL the hole deepens... Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

I used the permatex tube and tip. Just cut it off keeping a really small outlet and it helps control the flow and bead very well. I used the Ultra Gray when building my 07 motor and haven't had any issues at all with it. I started this one with the ultra black since it is best used for oil areas. I re-sealed the breather cover since I had that off to do the ring gap and I also installed the oil pan and oil pump this evening. I just went conservative with it on the pan... Way more conservative than the previous engine I pulled.. LOL On the pump I just did an extremely thin bead and then brushed it around to make a thin even layer. Once installed it barely squeezed out around the seams just like the factory block seal looks. Something I learned from my other engine is, you should see the smallest amount squeeze out when assembled, if you see nothing then you may have gone too thin... LOL remove and reassess. I will probably also use the trick I got from an old race engine builder and spray the head gaskets in a thin layer of Napa general purpose spray adhesive. I used it on my Beretta engine back in 2014 when I was using MLS gaskets for the first time on that and it hasn't had any leaks. I know the subie heads are notorious for the head oil drain back passage to start leaking, the thin spray of adhesive should help prevent that. Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

If you haven't done the air pump delete on your 07 yet you'll have to do it with the 05 motor. You'll only have to follow the instructions on how to get the ambient air pressure sensor to still work. The heads are different between the 07 and 05 so if you're using more than the short block you'll need to keep that into consideration. Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

Windage tray and Killer B oil pickup installed. Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

They came up at a min of 0.008 - 0.010 on the top and 0.012 - 0.016 on the second ring. BTW that 0.012 is below subaru spec min of 0.015. My CP build is at 0.021 top and 0.027 on the second so I split the difference and came up with a target of 0.015 for the top and 0.021 for the second. Ended up with 3 at 0.015 and one at 0.016 for the top and three at 0.022 and one at 0.024 for the second. That should be plenty safe and still tighter than my current engine that doesn't burn any excess oil. Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

In CT essential businesses can register for the next phase, and since I'm IT at a company with military contracts we fall into that category. I think they said we should be starting registration of our employees in mid Feb for March appointments. At this rate I'll believe it when I see it. This is a forever changing environment right now. My parents are registered for Feb 19th and my 93yr old grandfather is scheduled for Feb 25th. I'd like to see them taken care of before me. Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

While I wait for transmission parts... open up that ring gap... Don't want to waste a fresh shorty on a cracked piston from it being too tight! Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk