B-BGTLimited

Line pressure increase is not the only thing you need for an auto to hold power. Trust me I build my own 4t60e transmissions for my GM... I'm using Stage 1 clutches from Raybestos and a few of their hardened parts to improve reliability. I'm not sure what the weak links are in the 5EAT but I'm sure there are things out there that should be done to it, over just a few VB mods.

First post... That would be the Buick GN Motor. I'm somewhat of a GM loyalist... DO IT! lmao! Good planning/progress so far. Make sure to double check the Cometic Head Gaskets... The custom run they did for our 3100/3400/3500 V6 Was all wrong. They used the newer 3900 VVT as the template and they haven't fixed the issue yet or started making the proper ones... I had scratch that install and go back to GM graphite ones when I re-built my 60* v6 this winter.

I could also just shut off the 410 code so I never see it again... LOL

I'm tempted to do this since most recently I've had a 410 code after startup, twice now... Sorry but I'm not replacing that POS pump. I'll just remove the whole thing instead. Nice to know about the atmospheric sensor though!

Back when I built the car I got it to run a 13.996@98 and constant 14.000's N/A... Then I upgraded the brakes from 10" tiny lightweight suckers to some 12" F-body brakes. Those killed my time by about 6 tenths. So I decided to downgrade the brake upgrade to 11" n-body equipment and then I ran it this year on the N2O. I also put my 3.1k stall converter in, so that might help counteract some of the brakes since I only had a 2k stall before I haven't run it in it's current config n/a yet since really it's not built to run well that way, First off the motor has 9:1 compression, vs 9.8:1 if I was running the full 3500 engine (that's one reason why I went 3400 bottom end, I could drop compression just a bit without getting pistons) And The camshaft I have is really a Boost cam... Its not configured for n/a and then just spray on top, I had Ben at WOT-Tech do some testing to find a good profile for nitrous use. Granted this was back in 08 that he came up with this cam but it still works good for now. I'll upgrade sometime but I don't have the cash. I will be going to a central PA meet this Sept and I may take it down the strip during the test/tune and try to get a few n/a runs on it just to see if I gained back some of my ET with the smaller brakes. BUT the other advantage I had was tire size. When I ran my 13.9 that was on a set of 215/45/17 street tires that were quite worn... and my other runs were on a set of 225/45/17 drag radials. They are only about 1/2" taller, but going from a 215 section width to a 225, the tire does gain some extra weight that is a bitch to get moving. I want to get a set of 15" rims and then get a set of 225/50/15 tires. That will get me a 1" shorter tire for better acceleration. Sorry for the OT. But good luck with the 3800 and I agree, I'm pushing all this power through a 4t60e right now... not even a 65e. So if built right these transmissions can handle the power, typical parts that blow up are the Reverse shell, and differential. Get rid of the open diff and that solves that issue, and get a hardened shell and your good to go. Just keep an eye on the teeth of the 2nd drum... I think that unit should be sent out for hardening since that seems to wear now over the shell. I'm also using a Raybestos Stage 1 clutch kit in mine. There are more HD options for the 65e though.

Would probably get flagged as inappropriate.

My GM V6... Avatar... Beretta Not a 3.8, or a 90* just a small ole 3400 60*v6 with 3500 heads and other stuff

No, Beretta Fest. Chicago won the vote for the gathering location, but yes when were were at Great Lakes Dragway the guy mentioned Pinks being over on 66 the next day. We never got a chance to get out there.

GM V6's are slow... LOL Mine only did a 13.074@106 two weeks ago in Chicago. Un-dynoed 100 shot so I'm not really sure what the true HP gain is quite yet. There are other things done to it as well though.

They might depending on the springs installed. Then again I'm not sure if these have the same pressure as my stock Beretta springs did... I suggest renting a spring compressor from your local auto parts store. If your near a Advance Auto or even maybe an Auto-Zone they should rent out the tool. Even if you don't need it in the end you just bring it back and you get your money back.

I don't know if you call this a CT spotting or a MA spotting... It was in CT, but they were MA plates.... Looked like an 08 Leggy Dark Gray(not sure on exact color name), tinted, De-badged, with possibly pre 07 wheels on it unless the 2.5i's came with different wheels than my limited... And I'm assuming 2.5i unless I missed a FMIC, Defiantly no hood scoop though, and it was a 5-speed... I'm also assuming 2.5i since it appeared to have cloth interior. I parked next to it in the PetCo Parking lot in the Killingly commons. I had my pink Beretta. I'm assuming the individual worked at PetCo. Going by the doggy footprint air freshener hanging on the passenger door handle lol

LOL I brought mine in for the service bulletin re-flash and to check my TPMS system and they didn't say a word about it, but I'm sure they enjoyed the sound, over all the other quite cars they get in there. TPMS is still f-ed up though... idiots. I may head out to a tuning shop one day, but right now I need to get the maintenance in order before I try to make MORE power... LOL I'm also thinking about going open source so I may try to get a Tactrix cable before I do anything anyways.

My current plate on my Beretta http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/Pinky%20Parts/IMG_1770.jpg

What if you have a funny vanity plate of your own?

Ok, not many may have this issue, BUT if you buy a used car there is more than likely a good amount of spilt coffee hiding somewhere. In my case it was in the SI-Drive selector. I had an issue when I was buying the car that I could NOT get it out of I mode and I couldn't figure out why... The next day the switch worked fine, and has for a while, it only acted up twice since then and today was the last draw... Granted I was stuck in S# rather than I when it happened Step one, Remove your Console Referr to Vacation Pix EI-54 for the procedure, simple as removing the e-brake boot, and then the two bolts in the console box, the front two are pop clips. Step two, Remove the SI-Drive Switch from the console, 4 screws holding it in and one electrical connector... I think you can get this without pictures Step three, Using a small flat blade screwdriver seperate the backing of the SI switch from the housing, the backing will have the entire circuit board attached to it and there will also be a rubber membrane with the trigger switches on it, similar to a keyboard for PC. This part typically stays clean, Maybe the top portion of the membrane may have some coffee spillage on it, but the knob is where its all at. Step four, Spin the locking cam counterclockwise with a small flat screwdriver to allow you to remove the button, in doing this be aware that there are two pin type buttons to the left and the right of the knob on the bottom that MAY fall out if you flip the switch over to see the top, so keep the switch upside down during this step. Step five, Flip the switch over watching to see if the pins drop out. If they do not then there is the culprit. Here are pictures of those pins and how caked up they are with coffee residue… They are just the left and the right of the ball bearing and spring that works the switch. Step six, Clean these pins and the switch housing as good as you can, they should move 100% free in the bore when installed. Just follow the reverse procedure to put the whole thing back together and enjoy un-interrupted switch operation.

Yes a pop is typically unburnt fuel in the exhaust, and thats why I wonder with mine as consistant as it is, would that point to possibly a bad o2 sensor making my car run richer than necessary? I also do have the typical 07-09 studder I guess... I don't think this car had ever been brought in for the reflash before I bought it. But since I have a TPMS light blinking now, I kinda have to bring it somewhere to fix/replace the bad sensor and at the same time I will ask them about the "reflash" for 07-09 cars that fixes hesitation studder at part throttle. I wonder if after I do get it re-flashed (even if I have to pay for it) if this pop will go away, or get less.

Yeah mines not as bad as that video, its just on the shifts... Oh and I don't sit in my driveway and rev the shit out of my car like that so really I don't know... LOL Oh and Max Capacity, if I want the muscle car sound I just drive my other car... This was after I finished running through the whole thing this year... Granted it is open exhaust in this vid, but the second one is full exhaust before I tore it down last year. Pinky Parts :: MVI_2755.flv video by 3400modified - Photobucket@@AMEPARAM@@http://vid257.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/Pinky%20Parts/MVI_2755.flv@@AMEPARAM@@vid257@@AMEPARAM@@257@@AMEPARAM@@hh201/3400modified/Pinky%20Parts/MVI_2755 Pinky Parts :: MVI_2350.flv video by 3400modified - Photobucket@@AMEPARAM@@http://vid257.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/Pinky%20Parts/MVI_2350.flv@@AMEPARAM@@vid257@@AMEPARAM@@257@@AMEPARAM@@hh201/3400modified/Pinky%20Parts/MVI_2350

True but typically the exhaust leaks that cause pops are pre-cat, where the exhaust is hotter and has more flammable fumes in it. Just wanted to check because I was starting to think I was running a bit rich or something else is going on.

Is it common to get exhaust pop or "backfire" after doing this? Or do I possibly have an issue else where? I get slight pops every time I shift even when being quite easy on it, and if I abruptly let off the gas to shift hard after hard acceleration it can be quite loud. I still need to run through everything on this car since its new to me, and I am wondering if maybe my noise can be caused by bad o2 sensors, and old plugs and such... I did not see any of those replaced in any of the service papers I got with the car.